Big stove small load VS. small stove big load

[pro5oh]

I have a 30-nc that has been used for 2 years in my home. Now that I lined the flue it puts out alot more heat than previous years (draft). 1500sq ft home is overpowered by it now(R60 insulated roof), so I have been using smaller loads. I also have a Regency F1100s in the shed awaiting use. Trying to figure out if I should swap them.

My question is: what am I losing by 1/2 loading a large stove compared to full loading a small stove? Definately have to load my stove more lately with 2-3 pieces here and there. What about efficiency?

Really thankful for everyone helping out on this site!!

Thanks

 

[Todd]

Sounds like you need a medium sized stove about 2 cu ft right inbetween your other two. With that small Regency you would be hard pressed for overnight burns and loading it just as much as the small loads in your 30. Maybe sell them both and go stove shopping?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Since you already have the other stove you loose nothing by trying it.

With the smaller stove I think you will notice a shorter time getting the stove up to temp due to the lower mass. On the same thought, it will cool down faster than the 30.

Matt

 

[Jags]

Assuming that with the smaller loads you are still maintaining proper operating temps, you really aren't loosing much in the way of efficiency if you keep that stove rolling. Starting and stopping is a different story because of the low temp startup efficiency, but if you are a 24/7 burner I doubt that you will notice much difference in fuel use.

If you DO go for a different stove, you might want to look into the 2.0 ft stone stoves. Nice even heat over the long haul. Or possibly a blaze king cat (small). The owners of blaze king stoves report the ability to really dial the heat output down for long - low burns.

 

[branchburner]

With the smaller stove I think you will notice a shorter time getting the stove up to temp due to the lower mass. On the same thought, it will cool down faster than the 30.

You could also try to go the other direction, adding firebrick to the 30 and giving it more mass but a smaller firebox. This would give you even longer heat-up and cool-down times, but might help your smaller fires burn cleaner and hotter (assuming you don't adversely change the dynamics of the stove with the extra brick, by impeding airflow, etc.).

 

[Adios Pantalones]

Many stoves seem to operate best (achieve secondary flame) full- and I think that inefficiencies happen at startup when you're establishing draft etc. It's good to have the power when you need it though!

 

[Backwoods Savage]

My vote is to have a stove big enough to give you the amount of heat you need on the coldest nights of the year. This, of course, means that the stove will be too big for part of the heating season. That does not seem to have a big effect so why worry too much about a larger stove than needed?

In our case (Woodstock Fireview) the only times we burn full loads are at night or if we are to be gone during the daytime for a long time. Most days we do not burn full loads but usually will burn 3-4 splits, depending upon the weather. For example, last night I filled the stove around 9:00 pm. I had a bad night last night so did not get up until 8:30 this morning. When I got up I put in 4 splits. They lit right away and soon the stove top was at 600 degrees. It is nice and toasty in here. Outside temperature is not all that bad. Was 15 when I got up and 19 now.

We have no problem burning partial loads but there might be a difference between the cat and non-cat stoves. The non-cat might need the full loads but I can't imagine how folks would get along during spring and fall if they had to burn full loads to that makes me doubt the need. So I highly doubt the belief that you would really have to go to a smaller stove.

 

[wkpoor]

You guys crack me up with this big stove small stove thing. They are all small now! Seems we are splitting hairs between a 2cuft and a 3cuft. I consider my old Nashua small at 5.4cuft cause my neighbors is 10cuft.

 

[BrotherBart]

And my trash burning barrel is 7.35243056 cubic feet. So?

 

[Battenkiller]

Many stoves seem to operate best (achieve secondary flame) full- and I think that inefficiencies happen at startup when you're establishing draft etc. It's good to have the power when you need it though!

This is very true for most stoves, I believe. I'd recommend getting a stove that fits your requirements exactly, then go up one size. For example, if you think that the Jotul Castine specs out to meet your heating requirements perfectly, get the Oslo. You won't drastically oversize that way, but you'll have some reserve heating capacity for the few days of the year you need a bit extra.

 

[Battenkiller]

And my trash burning barrel is 7.35243056 cubic feet. So?

A lot easier to express that in gallons. That's 55.0000000332 gallons, correct?

 

[Adios Pantalones]

Nine significant figures. NINE. Must have to re-measure after each burn

(oh- and 12 or 13 for Batt... I need to take off my science hat once in a while I suppose)

 

[BrotherBart]

And my trash burning barrel is 7.35243056 cubic feet. So?

A lot easier to express that in gallons. That's 55.0000000332 gallons, correct?

Roger that.

 

[KarlP]

Is that the volume at 32F or at burn temperature? I bet there's a 0.003 cuft difference between the two.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

Is that the volume at 32F or at burn temperature? I bet there's a 0.003 cuft difference between the two.

I bet there's a lot more than that! We could calculate easily with the cold dimensions, thermal expansion coefficient, and hot temp... not that it would be useful...

 

[Jags]

Is that the volume at 32F or at burn temperature? I bet there's a 0.003 cuft difference between the two.

I bet there's a lot more than that! We could calculate easily with the cold dimensions, thermal expansion coefficient, and hot temp... not that it would be useful...

But we won't know if he is getting a full load without it. Ya never know, he might be able to get that last Dixie cup in there after all.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

LOL- There's an old rabbi joke that comes to mind that I won't post on list.

 

[eujamfh]

Have to agree with Matt. You have a stove installed...play with it. See how small afire you can get while still getting a clean burn. I know we can use a single split on a good coal bed and still have a good burn on most days. Just need to play with the air controls. Plus, you can always let things go to coal. Yes - on start up you get a less than ideal burn, but if you plan on cleaning annually, I would not think twice about it if your wood is seasoned.

Plus, as Dennis pointed out...on the days you need the umph, having that reserve capacity will feel awful nice.

 

[Renovation]

If you DO go for a different stove, you might want to look into the 2.0 ft stone stoves. Nice even heat over the long haul. Or possibly a blaze king cat (small). The owners of blaze king stoves report the ability to really dial the heat output down for long - low burns.

+1 Likewise for Woodstocks. The BK King has the advantage of thermostat, cat, and huge firebox, but I think the Woodstocks can be dialed similarly low, clean and efficient, but with a smaller load of wood.

 

[pro5oh]

It hasn't gone below 0 yet, I am a firm believer in a larger stove is better than to small. This place has been running about 82 degrees, which I like but the wife complains(never 100% happy...ever). Just worried about throwing in 2=3 splits here and there throughout the day, the flue temp is always 200-250 with those small amounts. 2-3 splits in a small stove is almost a full load. The 30-nc is heavy as hell, but I should swap them just to see. Then I can sell one.

I should mention that I run a pellet stove in the 450sq ft addition, so the woodstove only has to heat 1000sq ft.

 

[oldspark]

My summit heats the house with sticks and small splits until it gets below 0 then it struggles a bit, if I had a smaller stove I would etiher shoot it or me.

 

[precaud]

The 30-nc is heavy as hell, but I should swap them just to see...
I should mention that I run a pellet stove in the 450sq ft addition, so the woodstove only has to heat 1000sq ft.

A 30NC for only 1000 sq ft? Wow. My Quad 2100 (similar size to the Regency) heats 1150 sq ft., with 9-foot ceilings, I should add...

 

[pro5oh]

I have a 30-nc that has been used for 2 years in my home. Now that I lined the flue it puts out alot more heat than previous years (draft). 1500sq ft home is overpowered by it now(R60 insulated roof), so I have been using smaller loads. I also have a Regency F1100s in the shed awaiting use. Trying to figure out if I should swap them.

My question is: what am I losing by 1/2 loading a large stove compared to full loading a small stove? Definately have to load my stove more lately with 2-3 pieces here and there. What about efficiency?

Really thankful for everyone helping out on this site!!

Thanks

Ok I swapped them and fired up the 1100.. This stove took off and overfired in minutes. East west loading made the logs roll into the door glass. Swapped them back....

 

[SolarAndWood]

Swapped them back....

Hey, look at the bright side. Now you know.