BIO BRICK?? Where to buy in MA

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propguy

New Member
Sep 26, 2006
47
I am looking for Bio Bricks in MA.

Any ideas ? Cape Cod............
 
propguy said:
I am looking for Bio Bricks in MA.

Any ideas ? Cape Cod............

Why? You will void your warranty by burning ANYTHING other than natural wood in your stove.
Your manual states that fact.
Not to mention that the Defiant's NOT tested for burning bio-bricks...
I realize it's your stove, your house & your life, but...
 
DAKSY said:
propguy said:
I am looking for Bio Bricks in MA. Any ideas ? Cape Cod............
Why? You will void your warranty by burning ANYTHING other than natural wood in your stove.Your manual states that fact.Not to mention that the Defiant's NOT tested for burning bio-bricks...I realize it's your stove, your house & your life, but...
Maybe he didn't get wood in 2009 and can't find any dry wood now. Would you recommend burning unseasoned natural wood instead of dry bricks.
 
Warranty on a 2006 VC stove is a moot point, no?
 
BeGreen said:
Warranty on a 2006 VC stove is a moot point, no?

Probably, but the Defiant's a decent unit & if the Bio-bricks don't burn the way cord wood
does & the unit gets damaged as a result,
replacement costs aren't cheap. Why push the envelope?
Once again, it's his unit & his choice.
Just offering my opinion, which doesn't appear to be worth a whole heck of a lot,
but it's all I got! :)
 
Den said:
DAKSY said:
propguy said:
I am looking for Bio Bricks in MA. Any ideas ? Cape Cod............
Why? You will void your warranty by burning ANYTHING other than natural wood in your stove.Your manual states that fact.Not to mention that the Defiant's NOT tested for burning bio-bricks...I realize it's your stove, your house & your life, but...
Maybe he didn't get wood in 2009 and can't find any dry wood now. Would you recommend burning unseasoned natural wood instead of dry bricks.

Not at all. The stove wasn't tested for Bio-bricks, & fire can be deadly.
That's the ONLY point I'm trying to make.
I threw in the warranty blurb just cuz it was there...
 
Hey Guys thanks for the reply s......

I have not tried them... to tell you the truth ...The honest truth.......I AM SICK AND TIRED OF TRYING TO KEEP A GOOD SUPPLY OF CORD WOOD ,, No offense to some of you but Jeebus H Christ the Past 16 years I have gone through about 10 different guys!!!! I'll pay the $$ but most are as Flaky as a Donut,,, Punky wood , mixed Pine, Green, Muddy, Short ,,You name it I have seen it,, BEEN THERE AND DONE THAT!! I'm sick of the BS that comes with buying cord wood.



Whew I feel better!!!!!!!

I would just assume PAY MORE AND MAKE that stove work with Bio... if it means THE LEAST BIT OF CONSISTENCY IN THE PRODUCT.....and not have to watch every stick of wood that gets delivered and the useless stories that go with it. Bring me a good decent product period!
 
So why would using them void any warranty??? Is there some risk of overfiring???

If some wood dealer was putting the screws to me and the Bio Bricks were an option I would sure try a few at least
 
I don't see the problem. Been burning that long you know how to watch a stove and the load. Hope ya find a source. I am as sick of lugging wood out of the woods as you are of putting up with wood peddlers.

Keep us updated.
 
I've used Bio bricks in my Jotul Rockland insert last year. Its fine in moderation - I didn't have any overheating issues. Typically no more than 5-10 bricks in the firebox with the air on low to medium. It was a good alternative to green wood. I actually got the stove hot with bio bricks to burn wood that is not optimally seasoned.

But that was last year ( limited seasoned wood). This year, I have 3-4 cords of seasoned wood. Gotta start working on the next year's wood now.
 
ANeat said:
So why would using them void any warranty??? Is there some risk of overfiring? If some wood dealer was putting the screws to me and the BioBricks were an option I would sure try a few...
I've burned bricks, not Bio brand though. The mfr said that the bricks are made with high pressure, giving them a density double that of hardwood. . .which hardwood I dunno, but "double." Therein lies the potential for overfiring. In theory, bricks can allow you to stuff twice as much cellulose into your firebox, which means double the potential Btu's. . . maybe even more than double if packed more efficiently than logs can be. So you want to use an amount of bricks that takes up half the space in your firebox that a normal load of logs would. . .yeah, 5 - 10 bricks, depending on their size, say < 20 lbs total, and watch the stove like BB said. I too see no problem with bricks. . .other than not knowing exactly what's in them. Like with processed food, you have to trust the mfr.
 
A while back I tested all sorts of solid fuels in my Castine. It was only a year old. No damage done to stove or house. That said, you need to respect the product and read the directions. There is a lot of energy packed in these fuels. Burn them as recommended and with a healthy respect for their energy and it should be ok. But toss them into an already hot fire and you are going to be smelling hot metal and pegging the thermometer.
 
southshorewoodpellets.com
 
After paying for compressed sawdust bricks, you won't be stuffing your stove that tight if you have any motivation of saving money (and making your supply last all winter) ;-)

Comparing WoodBrickFuel (similar product, probably made from the same brand of machine) to a kiln-dried hardwood cordwood (packaged in .75cuft bags, like for camping) made by a nearby logging company, my experience has been that the bricks burn a little slower than the kiln-dried cordwood, but last longer. For the most part only the surface of the bricks appear to burn, whereas with cordwood you have smoke and flame coming out the ends of the grain in addition to the surface of the log. That's my non-scientific 2 cents so take it for what it's worth. There's usually a minimum number of bricks you gotta use to get the stove hot, but going too far can be bad. However, in one experiment where I stuffed my 1980 VC Defiant II with 16 bricks (32lb total) vs my typical 6 bricks (12lb), the stove NEVER overfired, it just kept steady at ~650F griddle temp for longer. The house got really hot though. Fact of the matter is, that stove is horrendously oversized for this small house (I guess the old lady who had this house custom-built liked it warm...) This is running the stove in updraft mode where it produces maximum heat.
Bear in mind, however, that my chimney isn't the most optimal setup so the draft isn't as high as it should be with most modern EPA-certified stove installs. I'd feel rather skittish about trying that experiment with a well-drafting chimney.
 
I have bought them at Benny's
 
spirilis said:
After paying for compressed sawdust bricks, you won't be stuffing your stove that tight if you have any motivation of saving money (and making your supply last all winter) ;-)

Comparing WoodBrickFuel (similar product, probably made from the same brand of machine) to a kiln-dried hardwood cordwood (packaged in .75cuft bags, like for camping) made by a nearby logging company, my experience has been that the bricks burn a little slower than the kiln-dried cordwood, but last longer. For the most part only the surface of the bricks appear to burn, whereas with cordwood you have smoke and flame coming out the ends of the grain in addition to the surface of the log. That's my non-scientific 2 cents so take it for what it's worth. There's usually a minimum number of bricks you gotta use to get the stove hot, but going too far can be bad. However, in one experiment where I stuffed my 1980 VC Defiant II with 16 bricks (32lb total) vs my typical 6 bricks (12lb), the stove NEVER overfired, it just kept steady at ~650F griddle temp for longer. The house got really hot though. Fact of the matter is, that stove is horrendously oversized for this small house (I guess the old lady who had this house custom-built liked it warm...) This is running the stove in updraft mode where it produces maximum heat.
Bear in mind, however, that my chimney isn't the most optimal setup so the draft isn't as high as it should be with most modern EPA-certified stove installs. I'd feel rather skittish about trying that experiment with a well-drafting chimney.

I will mix some of it with cord wood that I have....... I am ordering 2 tons of bricks along with the 3 cords of wood I have and I'm OFF to the races!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Post deleted issue was resolved.
 
Do the stove manufacturers use cherry or maple or do they use that all natural kiln dried southern yellow pine to test their stoves ?
 
billb3 said:
Do the stove manufacturers use cherry or maple or do they use that all natural kiln dried southern yellow pine to test their stoves ?
I remember reading somewhere that the EPA certification process uses Douglas Fir?
 
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