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  1. samwe New Member

    joined: Jun 17, 2012
    5 posts
    Eagle River, AK
    Our new house has two Heatilators, one in the family room (basement) and one directly above in the living room. The basement has concrete block walls and so does the chase. The chase becomes normal stick framing above that.

    We have hot water baseboard, but would like a fireplace/wood stove because we like fire and we want an backup heat source.

    The chase is 4' wide, 2' deep, and about 8' to the bottom of the next story. The opening is only about 5' high though. I do not wish to make the opening bigger, but I do wish to stick a BK King in there. I meet all the other dimension requirements listed in the manual, assuming block is not combustible!

    So my two question are: Is there anything wrong with using the chase as an alcove, and is should I be concerned about the alcove only being open on bottom half?
    Thanks.
    #1

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  2. samwe New Member

    joined: Jun 17, 2012
    5 posts
    Eagle River, AK
    OK, here is a pic. The opening is more than 5', but the blocks are only cut cleanly to about 5'. I would consider opening the chase up higher if I could verify the structural impact.

    Attached Files:

  3. kingquad Minister of Fire

    joined: Nov 17, 2010
    609 posts
    Pennsylvania
    As per the manual, Total Alcove Height for the King Classic is 81.25in and for the Ultra is 85.50in. Your going to have to make the opening taller.
  4. begreen Super Moderator

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    36,118 posts
    South Puget Sound, WA
    This is a fairly unique situation. I would contact BK. If they are willing to give you a written variance based on the completely non-combustible construction of the alcove then you should be ok. If not, then I would examine the construction carefully. For example, is there a metal lintel supporting the block at the top of the opening? How high does the block go above what is currently visible? Is there a weight carrying beam or rim joist at the top of the block?

    From the looks of this current setup, I'd lean toward the full alcove opening. As it currently stands, this space looks like a giant heat sink that would trap the heat in the cavity above the stove and send it right outdoors through the block. By opening up the space you can slope the lid toward the front to encourage heatflow into the room. However the final plan works out, I would also insulate the wall behind the stove.
  5. samwe New Member

    joined: Jun 17, 2012
    5 posts
    Eagle River, AK
    I can see a sill plate and a rim joist but no metal lintel. The floor joists above are 2x12.
  6. begreen Super Moderator

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    36,118 posts
    South Puget Sound, WA
    What is holding up the cement block at the opening? If just cement, it is definitely not structural.
  7. samwe New Member

    joined: Jun 17, 2012
    5 posts
    Eagle River, AK
    I see nothing holding it up.
    My wife likes the idea of opening it up, so that is surely the way to go.

    I can frame in the side using metal studs, cement board on top of that then than tile. I was thinking for the top would make some brackets to hold a metal heat shield with a slight angle to it.
  8. begreen Super Moderator

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    36,118 posts
    South Puget Sound, WA
    If the alcove ceiling height is the same as the room ceiling height, and that is at 96", then I think you can skip the metal heat shield. You could just continue the drywall from the existing ceiling.
  9. samwe New Member

    joined: Jun 17, 2012
    5 posts
    Eagle River, AK
    The ceiling is only 7' in that room for some reason.

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