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Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by slls, Jul 17, 2008.
Where can I get it for less than $12, red is cheap, but not the looks.
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$12 is that for a tub? We get it for like $2. Bond-o-flex GP. You can get it in the paint dept at Home Depot, its just kitchen/bath silicone, black colored. Any pure silicone caulk is pretty much high temp even if it doesn't say so. High enough for pellet pipe anyway.
So are you saying all pure silicone is hi-temp, did not know that. Thanks for the heads up.
There are some that are highER temp, but the standard silicone should be good up to 450F-500F, and the red HT stuff is usually good up to 600F. We use the regular bond-o-flex black on pellet pipe and have not had a problem.
Becafull the stuff only can handal 400F degrees, and at that temp it does degrade over time faster than the high tem stuff. Personaly I would stick with the high temp stuff it's only 12 bucks...
Well red is looking better, but I have time. From what I have been reading today, not sure when I will get my stove.
How about clear?
Thats what I had and used from my dealer
pellet exhaust is not supposed to exceed 500 F plus ambient. that said it can reach close to that of course you are sealing a joint not necessarily going to have impingement directly on the sealer so i wouldnt get much lower than 450 F rated , and higher if availible. besides , when i sealed my pipes i sealed the inner walls not the outside , so you cannot even see it.
If needed to come apart would it, if sealed inner walls. Maybe there would not be much of a reason to take it apart, really new at this.
It may need to come apart for cleaning, depending on how it is installed. If you use a lot of silicone it will never come apart again. If you use a small bead it will come apart if needed.
Clear stuff is the one that has a ratting of 400/450F dgrees.
I am not sure of the linear footage of sealnt you require, but I can't imagin you needing more than 2 or 3 tubes of High Temp caulk. This is an area where I would not try to skimp on a few bucks.
You can debate the locig of silicone expaning as it heats -etc, etc., but if you spend $24 vs. $8 is they headache down the road worth it?
Also - get the color you want and don't second guess later. Removing silicone or caulk is not a very fun proposition.
Thanks for all the reply's, most likely go with hi-temp black.
Been asking this question here for three years with no answer. If the stuff is 100% silicone, where is there room in there for one to be different from the other?
The Material Safety Data Sheets for all of them read exactly the same.
If you want the top of the heap use Rutland Black Latex "Seal It Right Direct Vent Appliance Sealant". Part #641. It is rated to 800 degrees and isn't adhesive so you can take the pipe apart and put it back together again. Costs sixteen bucks a tube.
That latex stuff is crazy.... used it once when an R & D guy flew out here from Washington (state) to help me with something. He left me the tube but the next time I wanted to use it, it was all dried up :-(.
BB, I totally agree... it all seems the same to me. We use the black stuff on pellet pipe, no problems. The only place the company wants us to use the red HT stuff is on the cold air kit box that goes on top of open ZC wood units (yuck).
We will know the next time the door gasket needs to be replaced on my 30-NC. The factory gasket was installed with the black stuff but it will be replaced with the three buck stuff from ACE Hardware. If that beast doesn't vaporize it there ain't no pellet pipe that is going to. I may put a dab on the liner this year just to see what happens. It gets up to 800 on start-up where all silicone is supposed to vaporize. The top plates for both liners and the blocking plate for the 30 have been sealed with the plain old clear stuff on both chimneys for two seasons and it looks like the day it was installed. That is the outside edges of the blocking plate. The part in contact with the liner is furnace cement.
When I get home,I will look at the tube,I think I still have it.
I thought it was high temp....
i use strap type oil filter wrenches to untwist em when they wanna be stubborn , works quite well one on each side of the joint