Blaze King in barn?

[midmichmusk]

So after pricing out overhead heaters and piping out natural gas to my 30x40 barn/shop, I called my insurance company which covers my remote cabin in northern michigan. The cabin's only source of heat is a blaze king princess from the 70s. I love it and its a little large for my cabin (560 sq ft).

Anyway the insurance agent (autoowners) offered me reasonable insurance at my main residence that would cover a wood burner in my barn. Based on my research, I would have to elevate it 18" off the ground and it would have to be EPA/UL certified.

My father in law took the attached blaze king as payment for a job and he agreed to consider selling it to me to heat my barn. I would still have a 30k btu propane wall unit to keep the barn somewhat warm. So a few questions.

1. what is the model of this stove?
2. Will this setup work?
2. is a heat reclaimer (magic heat) be worth while?
3. What would be a fair price to pay for it? it comes with 2-6' sections of double walled chimney pipe.

My northern michigan property had oak wilt kill all my oaks. So I have enough oak to burn for many lifetimes.

Thanks

 

[begreen]

Looks pre EPA. If UL tested it should say on the back label.

 

[Tar12]

What type of propane heater do you have? Vented or non? Does it have a automatic shut off safety feature in the event that the pilot should go out? The reason I ask is that I had a recent experience with a wall mounted,non-vented,propane unit that was not good. Apparently the pilot was snuffed when it attempted to light off and it continued to pump raw propane into the room. If that happened in a room with a active wood stove that could be the end of your garage.I recently went and looked at a old BK that looked identical to the one you have pictured and it was UL listed but no where did I see EPA approved.

 

[zig]

If your barn is insulated it should do a fair job for heating it . It does look pre-EPA though it may be UL tested. I would steer clear of a magic heat or anything like it.

 

[kennyp2339]

How tall are the ceilings? 30x40 = 1200 sq ft, shouldn't have a problem heating that as long at you don't have 20ft ceilings, if you do have high ceiling I would say you would need more of a convective heater (heats the air) vs a radiant heater like this particular model.

 

[Highbeam]

I would skip it. There are many very nice stoves available that are way better and cheaper. In my shop I installed (with permit and insurance) a brand new Englander NC30 from home depot that cost like 700$. It is EPA, big, has a window that stays clean, and is as efficient as any modern non-cat.

200$ tops if it is in perfect condition inside and EPA certified.

 

[midmichmusk]

Thanks for all the replies

The barn is insulated with rigid foam board. 3" on the walls/vapor barrier/ sheeting. Similar with an additional 1" on the underside of the roof. 11' to the bottom of the trusses which are open. I also have 2 ceiling fans to move air around.

Currently, I am using portable propane and kerosene heaters but would like a permanent heater. And wood is free and I enjoy cutting, splitting and have more then enough.

Insurance agent has confirmed EPA is not required. However, they would not cover a homemade stove (which wasn't a plan). So it appears this stove would work. I have always thought the Blaze Kings were higher end stoves. I am guessing (as far as cost) that my father-in-law will probably put me to work for a couple days (which I would do anyway). Is it worth using this stove?

 

[begreen]

The stove will be quite hungry. It sounds like this is a matter of labor. Labor for your dad for the stove aand then maybe double the labor for cutting, splitting and stacking wood vs a new EPA stove. The install may be more costly too, if the old stove takes an 8" flue. Would I use it... no. The old timer is not efficient. That's why folks used to put a stack robber on the flue. Magic Heats are a noisy bandaid that cause their own problems.

 

[BKVP]

Post another picture of the top and right hand side without all the stuff on it and I can confirm if it is EPA approved...

 

[midmichmusk]

It's about 45 minutes away at my inlaws. I will post more and better pictures next chance I get to make it out there.

I spoke with my FIL and he mentioned it having a 6" flue. But it's been a year since he has been out to his shop, dealing with health issues. He also said that he'd be happy if I could find a use for it.

I attached the only other pictures that I took. Thanks!

 

[midmichmusk]

Thanks everyone for the info and responses. And being active in a few message boards, it drives me crazy when people sign up ask question and then disappear. Mostly because I like to know how things worked out. Anyway, I am a sucker for things priced right (free) and my Father in law said come grab it.

It came with 12' of double walled pipe, the blower, the rain cap, and roof collar (i assume there is a proper name). It is a KMJ 302 which I believe is similar to a KTJ302 because it a top connection to the chimney.

Getting it into my shop, it looks worse than I had hoped. The base (where it would touch the ground/hearth) is broken in a spot and I could weld that. The door must have been slammed open and the hinges are bent which wouldnt be too difficult of a fix. But there are some cracks next to the the hinges (not sure if those are fixable, I have an arc weld but am not an expert). and finally the bricks are broken in many spots. I have included pictures of everything. Not sure if it too much of a project.

On a position note, I have all the parts to install it (i would have an expert do it or atleast have a friend who knows what they are doing help or walk me through it). Now knowing more, any thoughts or advice would be great.

 

[Tar12]

Free is good BUT if it compromises your safety its not worth it at all. You have a old abused stove. I would pull all of those stove bricks and give it a good cleaning to see what damage is hidden.If the damage is limited to the welding any competent welder can address the welding. If there is any damage and or deterioration to the firebox I would scrap it.

 

[midmichmusk]

Free is good BUT if it compromises your safety its not worth it at all. You have a old abused stove. I would pull all of those stove bricks and give it a good cleaning to see what damage is hidden.If the damage is limited to the welding any competent welder can address the welding. If there is any damage and or deterioration to the firebox I would scrap it.

Thanks Tar, and I agree. "Free" often is more trouble and money, than it's worth. I have a local company coming by Friday to look it over and give me an estimate on the install. I will keep in mind that they would prefer to do a job rather then tell me that it's not worth it.

Other than a visual check of the fire box (looking for cracks or warping) is there anything else that I should do for the inspection of the firebox. I was thinking of using a flash light from the outside for cracks, and a straight edge for warping.

Thanks!

 

[Tar12]

Thanks Tar, and I agree. "Free" often is more trouble and money, than it's worth. I have a local company coming by Friday to look it over and give me an estimate on the install. I will keep in mind that they would prefer to do a job rather then tell me that it's not worth it.

Other than a visual check of the fire box (looking for cracks or warping) is there anything else that I should do for the inspection of the firebox. I was thinking of using a flash light from the outside for cracks, and a straight edge for warping.

Thanks!

My main concern would be corrosion behind the bricks and the bottom of the firebox.Ash and moisture is corrosive. If it is pitted at all I wouldn't do it as it would simply be a mater of time before you have a burn through...and how bad are the door hinges?

 

[Marshy]

That is a carbon steel construction on those so it will arc weld fine. I would drill the ends of those cracks then take a grinding wheel and chase the crack then fill them in. What rod do you have? You'll have to grind out that weld on the corner. Gives you an excuse to do some welding I guess.

 

[midmichmusk]

My main concern would be corrosion behind the bricks and the bottom of the firebox.Ash and moisture is corrosive. If it is pitted at all I wouldn't do it as it would simply be a mater of time before you have a burn through...and how bad are the door hinges?

I havent gotten a chance to pull the bricks yet. The door hinges are bent. I was planning on heating them up with the torch, bending them back into place. Then putting a couple supports or gussets under them.

 

[midmichmusk]

That is a carbon steel construction on those so it will arc weld fine. I would drill the ends of those cracks then take a grinding wheel and chase the crack then fill them in. What rod do you have? You'll have to grind out that weld on the corner. Gives you an excuse to do some welding I guess.

Thanks Marshy - I planned on drilling the ends of the cracks. And yes any advice on welding techniques would be appreciated. My limited welding experience is mostly with left over angle iron and square stock for making trailers or 3pt attachments. I believe I have 7018 out there and depending on the thickness, I set my tombstone style Lincoln at 90.

 

[Marshy]

7018 will do fine, get in there and grind out the root of that weld and crack. IDK what your welding experience is but use enough heat to get a good penetration.