Blaze King thermostat??

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In the manual.
I don't recall reading that "leaving the bypass open too long can melt your bypass gasket retainers". I could be wrong and I'll go back and read it but don't recall it giving a reason. Because I don't recall reading a justification for it I assumed it was harmless to do so, i.e. only decreases its efficiency due to the loss of combustibles... I'll gladly stand corrected if it gave justification and appreciate the correction. I only recall it saying the bypass should be closed as soon as the thermometer is in the active range with no justification. Thanks
 
Normally if a stove won't operate per the manual something is wrong and needs fixed. Might be wood, chimney, or gaskets who knows. But you shouldn't need to vary from the manual if everything is in order.
 
I don't recall reading that "leaving the bypass open too long can melt your bypass gasket retainers". I could be wrong and I'll go back and read it but don't recall it giving a reason. Because I don't recall reading a justification for it I assumed it was harmless to do so, i.e. only decreases its efficiency due to the loss of combustibles... I'll gladly stand corrected if it gave justification and appreciate the correction. I only recall it saying the bypass should be closed as soon as the thermometer is in the active range with no justification. Thanks
Sorry, it doesn't give "what might happen" if you don't follow the manual. I think that has came from user knowledge. But if you follow the manual it says to shut the bypass when active
 
For someone with a masonry chimney (like me) having the bypass door open helps get that mass up to temp quicker. When Im reloading the stove I rake my coals and allot the stove to get back into the active zone and leave the bypass open for a few minutes to sent some heat up the flue. I don't let it burn out of control with a full load with the bypass open. Just want to be clear on that. Also, I usually wait for the thermometer dial to reach ~10 o'clock (where as active zone begins at 9'oclock) before I close the damper.
 
For someone with a masonry chimney (like me) having the bypass door open helps get that mass up to temp quicker. When Im reloading the stove I rake my coals and allot the stove to get back into the active zone and leave the bypass open for a few minutes to sent some heat up the flue. I don't let it burn out of control with a full load with the bypass open. Just want to be clear on that. Also, I usually wait for the thermometer dial to reach ~10 o'clock (where as active zone begins at 9'oclock) before I close the damper.
I think how your doing it is fine. I don't actively monitor my gauge and flip the bypass as soon as it gets active either. A few minutes is not going to hurt anything. I think high beam was just saying that leaving the door cracked, and bypass open for any extended time is a recipe for failure. And if that's what it takes to establish a fire there's another issue.
 
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Just curious, how do you know that to be true?

It's in the manual, I've been doing this awhile, direct contact with the manufacturer.
 
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