Block off plate

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

vpchester

New Member
Oct 5, 2020
15
Washington
I've just started installation of my wood stove insert (Drolet 1800i). Planning to install a block off plate just below where I removed the fireplace damper. I've read some have used 26 gauge steel and a few have used Durock cement board. Anyone have plus/minus comments on either? I would think the cement board will be easier to cut and form to my fireplace.

Also, am planning to put rockwool insulation above the block off plate. I'm not planning to insulate the SS flex liner since my flue is oval shaped and won't allow the the liner to slide in on the long sides if it is wrapped with insulation. Should I try stuffing insulation down the flue as best I can once the liner is in place or will it be sufficient to leave uninsulated? The total run will be 13 ft from top of insert to exit at top of chimney.
 
I've just started installation of my wood stove insert (Drolet 1800i). Planning to install a block off plate just below where I removed the fireplace damper. I've read some have used 26 gauge steel and a few have used Durock cement board. Anyone have plus/minus comments on either? I would think the cement board will be easier to cut and form to my fireplace.

Also, am planning to put rockwool insulation above the block off plate. I'm not planning to insulate the SS flex liner since my flue is oval shaped and won't allow the the liner to slide in on the long sides if it is wrapped with insulation. Should I try stuffing insulation down the flue as best I can once the liner is in place or will it be sufficient to leave uninsulated? The total run will be 13 ft from top of insert to exit at top of chimney.
You should be using an oval liner so you can insulate the liner properly. Have you checked for the required clearance to combustibles?
 
And you have the 1 or 2 inch clearance required depending upon interior or exterior chimney. all the way around the chimney structure to combustible materials?
 
So, in June, I had the local stove retailer's installer come by. He checked everything out, including clearances. He drew up an itemized list of materials needed and said, based on his review, it appeared to be fairly straightforward install. I told him that I was going to be doing the install since their estimate was pretty steep. He said as long as I used the materials om his list, I should be fine.
 
So, in June, I had the local stove retailer's installer come by. He checked everything out, including clearances. He drew up an itemized list of materials needed and said, based on his review, it appeared to be fairly straightforward install. I told him that I was going to be doing the install since their estimate was pretty steep. He said as long as I used the materials om his list, I should be fine.
How did he confirm clearance to combustibles around the chimney where it is concealed? Or can he see the required space is there from the attic?

Many installers choose to ignore the insulation requirement because it makes the install more complicated and expensive. Many are more concerned with making sure they get the job than making sure the job is done right.
 
Thank you for your comments. I fully agree and appreciate your concern that the job be done right. I'm a mechanical engineer and always question, at times only to myself, what contractors, mechanics, service techs tell me is needed. So, I do my own due diligence where possible with respect to engineering matters. I've found that most companies that produce mechanical equipment provide a wide range of "requirements" to ensure the product they sell is safe for the public in a wide variety of operating conditions. They do this, most importantly, to minimize lawsuits when their product causes a serious problem. So, I did research comparing measured surface temperatures as inputs (for the stove and components like the liner) and the thermal transfer of that energy to nearby sources (thermal radiation). I'm very confident that the components I plan to use in my application will be safe.
 
Thank you for your comments. I fully agree and appreciate your concern that the job be done right. I'm a mechanical engineer and always question, at times only to myself, what contractors, mechanics, service techs tell me is needed. So, I do my own due diligence where possible with respect to engineering matters. I've found that most companies that produce mechanical equipment provide a wide range of "requirements" to ensure the product they sell is safe for the public in a wide variety of operating conditions. They do this, most importantly, to minimize lawsuits when their product causes a serious problem. So, I did research comparing measured surface temperatures as inputs (for the stove and components like the liner) and the thermal transfer of that energy to nearby sources (thermal radiation). I'm very confident that the components I plan to use in my application will be safe.
So you did or didn't verify clearances? In your testing did you do it under chimney fire conditions and take into account the lowered kindling point of pyrolized wood? Those who determined the need for the clearances or insulation absolutely did
 
Last edited: