Brand new ceramic liner VS SS

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Oct 5, 2011
88
NH
So heres the deal, We just got done installing our sumers heat woodstove in our livingroom. I had to cut a hole into the (right side)flue, and discovered that the previous owner had replaced BOTH ceramic liners and NEVER used this side :)

I am brand new to burning wood, and would like to hear some constructive critisism from anyone who might wanna throw some my way!

What are some ways I can improve my wood burning? Would a 6'' SS liner be better than the basicly brand new ceramic that is in there now??

How bout chimney height? Using a cap? Right now my chimney only goes maybee a foot or 2 over the top peak in the roof, and has no cap. The house is a single floor.

right now my stove door doesn't close 100% It seems the metal panel on the inside that catched the latch is bent.... Is this affecting my efficiency?
 

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depends. whats the size of the clay tile 6x6? 8x8? chimney on the inside of houses our exterior. i personally like a stainless steel liner better. you can insulate. easier cleaning and maybe a little better performance. others will no a little more and give you some good advice.
 
You definitely need to get that door closed. Are you sure the end of the door latch isn't hitting a fire brick on the right side?
 
Lewisthepilgrim said:
So heres the deal, We just got done installing our sumers heat woodstove in our livingroom. I had to cut a hole into the (right side)flue, and discovered that the previous owner had replaced BOTH ceramic liners and NEVER used this side :)

I am brand new to burning wood, and would like to hear some constructive critisism from anyone who might wanna throw some my way!

What are some ways I can improve my wood burning? Would a 6'' SS liner be better than the basicly brand new ceramic that is in there now??

How bout chimney height? Using a cap? Right now my chimney only goes maybee a foot or 2 over the top peak in the roof, and has no cap. The house is a single floor.

right now my stove door doesn't close 100% It seems the metal panel on the inside that catched the latch is bent.... Is this effecting my efficiency?

Ok I am not familiar with this specific stove so I will try but to give you some more generic advice.

For this stove what is the recommended size of the flue? What is the size of the ceramic (clay?) chimney ? You want to use the size flue that the stove was designed for. To large or to small can have a negative effect on your burning.

Chimney height. should be at least 2 feet above anything that is within 10 linear feet of it, and 3 feet higher than the penetration point of the roof. You say its a single story so then we get into the total height? How tall is it? The stove also has a minimum height that it should be. Are you taller than that? From your pics it looks like you have 2 90 degree bends, that means your effective height is 6 feet shorter, you need to deduct 3 feet per 90. Cap? if you line the chimney, you should get the cap for that liner. If you don't need to (I doubt that will be the case) then you should have something on top of the chimney.

The door? that needs immediate attention!!!
 
Going to bed but really wish he had gotten back to us. Burning with the door totally unlatched like it is in the pic is scary.
 
BrotherBart said:
You definitely need to get that door closed. Are you sure the end of the door latch isn't hitting a fire brick on the right side?

+1

One of your firebricks has a corner cut off of it. That firebrick is the one that sets next to the door latch. The cut corner allows the latch to fully close without hitting the firebrick.

Bill
 
I would be tempted to install an insulated SS liner and extension if you can afford to do so. Putting an extra 3-6ft (triple wall insulated) above the termination point of the current chimney would be preferable to get more predictable drafting characteristics. I grew up in a house with a single story addition with a fireplace. The fireplace never drafted very well and was a bit of a danger really. We wound up putting a 3ft extension on it and a special cap that was supposed to prevent down-drafting issues (we lived at the base of a bluff down in a valley that created interesting drafting problems as well)... The results were slightly better but still lacking. The extension was not insulated, so the improvement was mediocre at best.

As far as a cap goes... That's all dependant on the situation. blowing snow could cover and plug off the top if you aren't burning at the time. Also, various small mammals tend to find their way down into chimneys and cause problems. On the other hand, a screened in cap has a propensity to clog up with creosote since the screen is always getting cooled by the surrounding air and makes for a perfect condensation point. Most chimney cap designs, with screens removed, are attractive to birds who want to make nests. Also, a screen on the cap is a nice safety measure to reduce the chances of embers making their way out (highly unlikely but you never know, if your stove is catalytic then it doesn't matter). so... It's all a massive pile of trade-offs.
 
shawneyboy said:
Ok I am not familiar with this specific stove so I will try but to give you some more generic advice.

For this stove what is the recommended size of the flue? What is the size of the ceramic (clay?) chimney ? You want to use the size flue that the stove was designed for. To large or to small can have a negative effect on your burning.

Chimney height. should be at least 2 feet above anything that is within 10 linear feet of it, and 3 feet higher than the penetration point of the roof. You say its a single story so then we get into the total height? How tall is it? The stove also has a minimum height that it should be. Are you taller than that? From your pics it looks like you have 2 90 degree bends, that means your effective height is 6 feet shorter, you need to deduct 3 feet per 90. Cap? if you line the chimney, you should get the cap for that liner. If you don't need to (I doubt that will be the case) then you should have something on top of the chimney.

The door? that needs immediate attention!!!

Here is my stove
http://www.summersheat.com/manuals/13-NC.pdf

The liner that is in the chimney is approx 7''x9''(measured with my hand :) )

The stove pipe coming off the top of my stove is the recomended 6''. It has 2 45* bends going into the brick chimney. The total chimney height from where it enters the bricks to the top, is approx 13 feet.

Draft last night was pretty good... this morning its not so great... I can't shut the door all the way and keep the 4 logs I have in there roaring the way they should be...

I fixed my door problem. It was the fire bricks getting in the way of the latch.

Would dropping a 6'' SS liner in give me better drafting??? (I have one I had bought but a mason told me I shouldn't use it)
 
Random thoughts . . .

Assuming by "ceramic" you mean the clay tile liner?

Hard to tell from the photo . . . but is the hearth big enough for this install?

Door should be closed . . . and not left ajar when not in the room . . . glad to hear this was fixed.

Cap . . . optional . . . I kind of like the caps and screens . . . just to keep birds and ferrets (with a nod to Fossil) out of the chimney.

Generally liners help with marginal draft situations . . . if the weather is anything like it is in NH as it is here . . . the warm weather of a few days has passed and it is cooler . . . usually cooler weather = better drafting . . . not really sure why the mason would tell you not to use the liner . . . well except for the fact that some folks are still old school and clue-less when it comes to burning with the EPA woodstoves.

Incidentally . . . speaking of the roaring fire . . . I assume you've read up on how to run the woodstove . . . ie. once you get the stove up to temp, cutting back the air so you can get the cleaner, longer and more efficient secondary burn?

Finally . . . welcome to the forum . . . if you have questions . . . ask away . . . we're a friendly lot.
 
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