Brush for cleaning 6" stainless pipe

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Jerry_NJ

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Apr 19, 2008
1,056
New Jersey USA
I am yet to clean for the first time the 6" stainless steel pipe on my Quadrafire 4100I insert. This unit was run for the first time last winter and I burned about 2 cords of seasoned wood, about 80% hardwood and 20% softwood, mostly eastern cedar.

I believe most have recommended a poly, not metal, brush.

I see a good selection on the Red Hill General Store on the web, where they offer a 6" poly brush and different length brush rods. I would pick the middle length rod of 4' because I don't have any reason to go to the shortest rod which is 3'. The question may be will I have problems with the 4' length running the brush up from the Quadrafire Insert? I will need at least 7 sections of the rod as my chimney is about 30' tall.

If anyone can recommend any specific brand or technical advice I'd appreciate it.
 
I imagine the rods are about the same except for the connectors. There is a homeowner size and there is a thicker, I guess professional size. I can't remember whether it's 1/4 and 1/2, 3/8 and 1/2, or what. I ended up with the smaller one that I picked up from Lowes and Ace Hardware. I understand there is a quality difference, but after 20 or so cleanings I haven't noticed it. However, I have noticed that my poles are a b*tch to get apart. It probably has to do with cleanings from the bottom when there is snow on the ground. Dirt and grime getting in when I clean without snow on the ground. I now wrap the poles around the inside of my shed. A little grease would do wonders on keeping the poles ready to come apart after use. Maybe I'll grab some vice grips and take them apart and grease them.

Matt
 
Anti seize would probably work well too.
 
I bought a rutland 6" steel brush and 4 rods for my rigid ss pipe, about 16' from the outside tee to the cap. My set up works great for what I have, and no issues with a steel brush so far. I think the poly recommendation is aimed at flexible pipe, so as not to tear it, but I'm inclined to say that going up that far a steel brush would be too much work. You'd definitely need stronger rods than I have. I'm guessing that a poly brush is easier to move with the 4' rods. For me, cleaning is a pretty easy job.
 
madrone said:
I bought a rutland 6" steel brush and 4 rods for my rigid ss pipe, about 16' from the outside tee to the cap. My set up works great for what I have, and no issues with a steel brush so far. I think the poly recommendation is aimed at flexible pipe, so as not to tear it, but I'm inclined to say that going up that far a steel brush would be too much work. You'd definitely need stronger rods than I have. I'm guessing that a poly brush is easier to move with the 4' rods. For me, cleaning is a pretty easy job.

Do you clean the chimney from the bottom up? That's how I'll end up cleaning our chimney.
 
Thanks, I plan to clean from the bottom up, requires some air handler (or whatever) removal inside the insert to gain access to the pipe...which has a slight bend as it moves back to go up the masonry chimney. I'd go to the roof, but not on this house, much too steep and too high for my tast/skill (or non-skill).

Sounds like Matt leaves his poles attached, I assume full dis-assembly when done, that should be a easy/small storage package.
 
Yes. The T is outside, about 7 feet up, so I get on the stepladder and push the brush up, one rod at a time, to the top. The first time I cleaned it I was concerned about pushing too hard, and thought maybe the brush was too big. Nearer the top, the rods are bowed against the pipe, and take a little bit more work to keep moving. Pulling back down takes a little effort to get the bristles turned around, but then it's easy, removing one rod at a time. In the house, I have to remove the pipe from the stove, (about 3' and a 90* elbow) take it out side and use the brush on a single rod, or just by itself. I've tried the whole "tape a bag to the pipe to catch the soot" thing, but it always seems to either come off, or get in the way, so I just sweep up later. A dust mask or respirator isn't a bad idea.
 
HOw do you folks clean from the bottom up and clean the cap?
 
That's the problem with the bottom up, seems the only answer is to go the top at least to remove/clean/replace the cap. For me that is a problem. I can't get that high even with my 32' extension ladder, and I can't walk the roof either.
 
I leave the rods attached now. I used to take them apart but it got to be a pain when wet and miserable.

I don't use a cap anymore with the current house. I'm rehabbing a house now and will try one again with that chimney. That chimney seems to attract tree rats. They in turn, attract flies.

Matt
 
I've been using a 6" round poly brush and 3. 6' fiberglass rods. top down cleaning. After 8 years of cleaning the brush is a bit worn, not as tight as it used to be. My cap with 1/4 inch screen was plugged solid before the first cleaning. I removed the screen and no problem except a bird that ended up in the stove. The cap is cold so it gets very gummed up. I clean the cap ever year, but since there's no screen I don't have to clean it.

Tom
 
Hum, do I hear a way "out"? Take the cap off, or maybe use a real wide screen, something like chicken wire, to keep the critters out.

I did run one chimney open for a couple of years from the basement coal stove/wood stove without even a cap. I ended up with a squirrel in the stove one night. The stove had been off for a day or two, but had was warm from escaping house air (I suppose) and a squirrel trying to get warm fell in. It was a real challenge to catch and get it out of the house, but I did succeed...but I was younger, faster, and smarter then, not sure I could accomplish the same thing today (this coming winter).
I suppose the problem with a plugged cap is smoke back in the house, not a chimney fire, right?
 
My cap has fairly large screen, maybe 1" or a little larger. Doesn't accumulate much of anything. I'll have the roofers give it a scrub when I replace the roof next summer. ;-)
 
None of my caps have screens, which lets a few birds in but otherwise no problem. The one with the most use I clean from the bottom so the cap has never been cleaned. It looks fine from down below, anyway. (Maybe the birds are cleaning it for me!)

I have I think 3' rods and a (stiff) poly brush. It takes way too much upward force to get past each joint between chimney sections for my liking. I'm either going to trim the bristles a bit or get the softer poly version.
 
No screen on my cap. Which is a good thing since there's realy no possible way to access it unless I rappel down from a nearby tree. :lol:
 
My cap is the standard for the liner that I have, hum, what is that..? I do remember a screen, but not like a screen-door, more like hardware cloth. The Liner in Duraflex (if I recall correctly, I can look up in my files).

I am hopeful I can get by without having to remove and clean the cap. I'll watch for any smoke back problems next winter to determine if the screen is producing too much back pressure.
 
Jerry,
My cap, had 1/4 inch hardware cloth about 4" high, 8" in diameter. The screen was held in place by the 4 supports that hold up a dome top, about 10" in diameter. My guess was the spark arestor screen must be code required, but it just doesn't work. I removed the screen but wouldn't remove the cap as it stops most of the rain water from ending up in the stove. Even with the cap I do get a little dampness in the stove when we have a blowing rain. Squirrels haven't gotten in, yet, I don't think they want to climb up 8' chimney above the roof. My cap doesn't need to be cleaned, but since I have it off, I clean the gunk off the inside of the dome. I think most of us have removed the screens. Maybe we can hear from the people who's cap and screen work without cleaning.

Tom
 
My cap is intact with screen. The screen has 1/2 square holes though. The only time I had problems with the screen getting full of crud, was my first year learning to burn and burning less than optimal not very dry wood.
 
I'll get out my 700mm telescope and get on a hill along side my driveway to see if a I can inspect the screen from the ground. I'll still be looking up at a slight angle, but the hill may give me a level enough view to make the visual inspection.

I do have the standards (kit) Dura Flex cap ... the one they sell with their liner kit. This was installed just over a year ago and it has seen about 2 cords of seasoned hardwood, plus maybe 1/4 cord of seasoned softwood over the last winter.
 
I got the telescope out and found trouble getting a clear shot at looking at the cap, trees in the way. I ended up look up at a steeper angle than I wanted, I was only 30-40 away from the house and looking up 35', so about a 45 degree angle. Still I could see the stainless steel was still shiny and it has a hardware cloth type screen, I suppose about 1/2" square. The cap also has two bands between its base and the rain cap, so some of the area is covered by these bands. I could see some smoke/dirty looking area near the top of the screen, but they appear to be open.

I am going to try to get away with not cleaning, just run a brush up from the bottom, through the insert. As stated in the beginning I plan on using a poly brush, not metal. I hope this means the brush will be less likely to get stuck, especially if I run the brush up into the cap. I'm not sure how I know that other than when I get to where I feel a stop or resistance in pushing the brush upward. I suppose there is some risk that Ican push the cap off, hope that doesn't happen.
 
Hopefully, the cap is held on with screws. Regardless, knowing how many feet of rod you sent up will help you figure it out. When I think I'm there, I check to see if the brush made it to the top. Maybe you could mark that last rod with tape after you find the top at the first cleaning. I don't worry about my cap.
 
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