Buck Stove with Gas Insert Cut into it. Can I switch it back to wood burning?

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unique28k

New Member
Jan 4, 2022
4
Topeka, KS
We bought a home with what looks to me like a triple wall 28k from my research on here. The previous owners cut a hole to put a gas line in it. Everyone I call says "I've never seen anything like that and we aren't touching it. Has anyone seen this and if so was there a way to save the insert? Even if it costs the same as a new insert I would rather fix this if possible. for me its a nostalgia thing. We had a similar one growing up. Appreciate any input offered

Buck1.jpg Buck2.jpg Buck3.jpg Buck4.jpg
 
Looks like a converted old Buck insert. There certainly are better burners.

What is a triple wall 28k?
 
It is the Model of the Buck stove I've got. Is there a way to convert it back to wood burning?
I could have been more clear about that being the goal.
 
I would think all the gas lines could be removed and the hole could have a patch welded over it. I would probably pull the insert and weld it on the outside so the bricks can lay flat when you reinstall them. It would need to be pulled to remove the rest of the gas line in the fireplace, and while it is out the chimney needs to be inspected to make sure it is safe to use. If it does not have a full stainless steel liner, which it most likely does not one should be installed with insulation wrap on it and connected to the top of the buck running to the top of the chimney.
 
Alright, I don't personally have the skill to do the welding but I am able to pull the insert and look for a welder. The gas lines will be easy to pull as the back of the fireplace is in the garage. and they run along the wall before going into the side of the fireplace . I guess the stainless liner should be installed by a chimney sweep who will also do the final inspection. Is that correct? anything else I need to do or watch for?
 
I believe those stoves are double wall construction they did make a zero clearance cabinet maybe that's maybe why you referred to it a triple wall. Either way all the walls inner and outer would have to have a steel patch welded over them. You need to make sure this is installed in a masonry fireplace and the chimney is in good shape and clean. Is the back side of the wall brick? The insert will a chimney adapter like the link below but honestly should be made out of stainless steel. This insert will require an 8" chimney liner as well.
You might want to research repair cost on the Buck the chimney adapter may have to be custom made, and how much more the 8" liner will cost over the 6". That money would probably be better spent putting it towards a new insert or a newer used insert. I have never owned a Buck 2800 but new a few people who have while they do put out a good amount of heat they also have a healthy appetite for wood. Also yo might want to check the blower out to see if that works you will need that for heat output.
 
Yes they do have 3 walls. But honestly I wouldn't put much of any money or effort into that stove. If it already has a liner hooked to it maybe it would be worth fixing. But if it needs a liner as well I would be looking for something newer
 
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If something newer, what would you recommend for that size? it is all masonry. it is about 25 inches wall to wall. also I should probably fill the hole in the brick with mortar correct? The heatilator still works as new
 
Yes I would fill the hole with brick mortar. As far as recommendations for a newer that would depend on specifications of your home like size ceiling height how well insulated and chimney height along with budget. Drolet and True North make a nice adorable inserts might see what is available used locally as well.
 
Imo it'd be expensive to weld correctly. These are for sale in my area for under $500 if that's what you want get another. Put a new motor and temperature sensors in before reinstalling. I'd also hook up a liner.
 
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My aunt and uncle had a wood burning and gas fireplace, they stopped using the gas, just take the pipes loose at the 90 elbow and install a plug ( all iron pipes ) if you ever want to convert to gas again in the future it is there. My old house had this as well. Make sure the gas is turned off to that line so there is no pressure on that line, aired out and capped.
 
Sono said:
My aunt and uncle had a wood burning and gas fireplace, they stopped using the gas, just take the pipes loose at the 90 elbow and install a plug ( all iron pipes ) if you ever want to convert to gas again in the future it is there. My old house had this as well. Make sure the gas is turned off to that line so there is no pressure on that line, aired out and capped.
Click to expand...
A fireplace with a gas line is very different than a wood stove with a hole drilled in it for a gas line
 
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bholler said:
A fireplace with a gas line is very different than a wood stove with a hole drilled in it for a gas line
Click to expand...
true but the area is tight enough and it is an insert so no worry of anything in that area. If it was free standing it should be removed and a cover welded in place. But for an insert, plug the line and done.
 
Sono said:
true but the area is tight enough and it is an insert so no worry of anything in that area. If it was free standing it should be removed and a cover welded in place. But for an insert, plug the line and done.
Click to expand...
Ok this insert has a triple wall construction. The gas line has been drilled through all 3 walls that means that the chambers that the fan circulates air through are now connected to the firebox. One of those chambers will be under vacuum the other under pressure. Neither one of them is a good thing to have open to the firebox.
 
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bholler said:
Ok this insert has a triple wall construction. The gas line has been drilled through all 3 walls that means that the chambers that the fan circulates air through are now connected to the firebox. One of those chambers will be under vacuum the other under pressure. Neither one of them is a good thing to have open to the firebox.
Click to expand...
I missed that, well the elbow can be welded to the box to make that air tight. Now the other issue would be.... the hole was probly drilled tight for the pipes fit, if the pipe was removed the inner and outer wall could be welded shut but then that leaves a gaping hole in the middle..... so for the little air leak there would be I would just seal the pipe on the inside ( weld the elbow to the box ) so there is no chance of CO2 getting through and just leave the pipe in place for future use if someone wants to convert to gas again. I doubt they want to cut a gaping hole on the outside just to seal off the center wall, all the work involved to remove, if thats the case then the whole gas line can be removed at that time.... but Im sure they want to keep it simple.
 
Sono said:
I missed that, well the elbow can be welded to the box to make that air tight. Now the other issue would be.... the hole was probly drilled tight for the pipes fit, if the pipe was removed the inner and outer wall could be welded shut but then that leaves a gaping hole in the middle..... so for the little air leak there would be I would just seal the pipe on the inside ( weld the elbow to the box ) so there is no chance of CO2 getting through and just leave the pipe in place for future use if someone wants to convert to gas again. I doubt they want to cut a gaping hole on the outside just to seal off the center wall, all the work involved to remove, if thats the case then the whole gas line can be removed at that time.... but Im sure they want to keep it simple.
Click to expand...
Yes it could be welded shut. But then we are back to whether it has a liner hooked to it or not and whether it is worth putting the work into an old inefficient stove
 
CO2 is not the problem.
 
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Sono said:
it is if the 2nd wall has a hole into the air circulating chamber......
Click to expand...
The problem is carbon monoxide co not carbon dioxide co2
 
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