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bucking advice

Post in 'The Wood Shed' started by stockdoct, Mar 15, 2009.

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  1. stockdoct

    stockdoct New Member

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    Now that I've got my Stihl, I'm attacking logs too large to lift onto the sawbuck. Fun! Yowza, that saw rips!

    But Ive learned on this forum that you should never let your saw blade touch the earth or it'll dull the cutters in an instant. So what's the best way to buck a log laying flat on the ground? Bring the sawblade through the wood almost to the ground then roll the log over to finish the cut? Or roll the log onto a small wedge or something to get it an inch off the ground?

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  2. myzamboni

    myzamboni Minister of Fire

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    6 or 1/2 dozen to the other. Either way works.
  3. KarlP

    KarlP Feeling the Heat

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    If the log is small enough, use a dixie jack, log jack, or timber jack. They are all the same thing with different names.

    Otherwise roll it over with said jack and cut from the other side.
  4. stockdoct

    stockdoct New Member

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    thanks

    I'm working on my Norway maple tree this weekend, 26" diameter with a 16" bar. Pretty heavy slabs to roll !
  5. Todd

    Todd Minister of Fire

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    I like to make cuts 3/4 through all the way down the log, then roll it over to finish. I hate hitting the ground, dulls my chain in no time.
  6. Bigg_Redd

    Bigg_Redd Minister of Fire

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    Yes.
  7. savageactor7

    savageactor7 Minister of Fire

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    I'd rather pound a nail through my scrotum than take the time to lift tiny arm sized limbs onto a saw buck. I've tip cup thousands and thousands of feet of those rounds and the number of times I hit dirt you could count on one hand and still have fingers left over.
  8. f3cbboy

    f3cbboy Feeling the Heat

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    I've never been one to use a saw buck and idont hit the dirt often - very rarely. i am no expert but just pay attention. i am laughing my ass off about "pound a nail through my scrotum" my daughter is looking at me like i have 10 heads because i am liaughing so much and i am the only one in the dining room.
  9. vwboomer

    vwboomer New Member

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    I just built a half-assed sawbuck today. Just wasn't safe cutting 3-4" branches that were loose as they tended to get drawn into the saw.

    Turning the log is a great idea in theory. But it's not always possible. Like when it's frozen to the ground. Or it's wedged at the base of standing trees on a wicked slope. Being new to cutting, I think I'm going to keep the stock chain and put it on in these circumstances. If it touches dirt at least it's not chewing up a nice chain.
  10. rphurley

    rphurley Feeling the Heat

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    Pardon me for asking, but people actually lift logs to place them in a sawbuck? Sounds like double the work to me. I like to place a small round under the fallen tree and move it as I go along. I also look for places to undercut the tree so I can help make manageable sized pieces.
  11. Got Wood

    Got Wood Minister of Fire

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    I cut most of the way through, repeating this for the length of the log. Then roll over so uncut portion is side up. Then I under cut to finish it off. I find this is easier then cutting down and makes a cleaner finished cut.
  12. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa Minister of Fire

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    Yes. I use the sawbuck for anything 6 inches or smaller.

    My wood is delivered in 8 foot lengths and I get the driver to put skids under the pile. Large logs I cut part way through and then roll over and finish the cut. Smaller logs I shove my foot under and hold the log up so it doesn't bind the saw.

    When felling and bucking in the bush, I just rock the round back and forth with my foot and can feel when there is just a bit of bark left holding. If you put enough down force with your foot, you can see the saw kerf start to open when you're almost through the round.
  13. Bigg_Redd

    Bigg_Redd Minister of Fire

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    1) If it's frozen to the ground then you're probably not going to lift it onto a sawbuck either, no?

    2) Of the thousands of cord of wood I've cut, not one has been on a wicked slope. So, no help from me on that one.
  14. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Minister of Fire

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  15. Apprentice_GM

    Apprentice_GM Member

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    I place a few branches or a short (8') log across the fall line and land the tree on them when felling. It means the trunk is off the ground from the start, and easy to buck without touching the ground. I use the see-saw / roll the trunk along the ground log/branch technique as well and really like it. This is where you have the big ground log around the middle of the tree trunk, one end is heavier so the other is in the air, and you buck down until near the hinge point, then roll the trunk along the branches until you can buck your way down again. Only works on favourable ground (ie not snow-covered and fairly flat) and with branches and logs available for it, but is effective imho.
  16. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Ow,ow ,ow, owww,ow,ow,ow!
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