bucking advice

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stockdoct

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 19, 2008
194
ilinois
Now that I've got my Stihl, I'm attacking logs too large to lift onto the sawbuck. Fun! Yowza, that saw rips!

But Ive learned on this forum that you should never let your saw blade touch the earth or it'll dull the cutters in an instant. So what's the best way to buck a log laying flat on the ground? Bring the sawblade through the wood almost to the ground then roll the log over to finish the cut? Or roll the log onto a small wedge or something to get it an inch off the ground?
 
6 or 1/2 dozen to the other. Either way works.
 
If the log is small enough, use a dixie jack, log jack, or timber jack. They are all the same thing with different names.

Otherwise roll it over with said jack and cut from the other side.
 
thanks

I'm working on my Norway maple tree this weekend, 26" diameter with a 16" bar. Pretty heavy slabs to roll !
 
I like to make cuts 3/4 through all the way down the log, then roll it over to finish. I hate hitting the ground, dulls my chain in no time.
 
stockdoct said:
Now that I've got my Stihl, I'm attacking logs too large to lift onto the sawbuck. Fun! Yowza, that saw rips!

But Ive learned on this forum that you should never let your saw blade touch the earth or it'll dull the cutters in an instant. So what's the best way to buck a log laying flat on the ground? Bring the sawblade through the wood almost to the ground then roll the log over to finish the cut? Or roll the log onto a small wedge or something to get it an inch off the ground?

Yes.
 
I'd rather pound a nail through my scrotum than take the time to lift tiny arm sized limbs onto a saw buck. I've tip cup thousands and thousands of feet of those rounds and the number of times I hit dirt you could count on one hand and still have fingers left over.
 
I've never been one to use a saw buck and idont hit the dirt often - very rarely. i am no expert but just pay attention. i am laughing my ass off about "pound a nail through my scrotum" my daughter is looking at me like i have 10 heads because i am liaughing so much and i am the only one in the dining room.
 
I just built a half-assed sawbuck today. Just wasn't safe cutting 3-4" branches that were loose as they tended to get drawn into the saw.

Turning the log is a great idea in theory. But it's not always possible. Like when it's frozen to the ground. Or it's wedged at the base of standing trees on a wicked slope. Being new to cutting, I think I'm going to keep the stock chain and put it on in these circumstances. If it touches dirt at least it's not chewing up a nice chain.
 
Pardon me for asking, but people actually lift logs to place them in a sawbuck? Sounds like double the work to me. I like to place a small round under the fallen tree and move it as I go along. I also look for places to undercut the tree so I can help make manageable sized pieces.
 
I cut most of the way through, repeating this for the length of the log. Then roll over so uncut portion is side up. Then I under cut to finish it off. I find this is easier then cutting down and makes a cleaner finished cut.
 
CTburns said:
Pardon me from asking, but people actually lift logs to place them in a sawbuck?
Yes. I use the sawbuck for anything 6 inches or smaller.

My wood is delivered in 8 foot lengths and I get the driver to put skids under the pile. Large logs I cut part way through and then roll over and finish the cut. Smaller logs I shove my foot under and hold the log up so it doesn't bind the saw.

When felling and bucking in the bush, I just rock the round back and forth with my foot and can feel when there is just a bit of bark left holding. If you put enough down force with your foot, you can see the saw kerf start to open when you're almost through the round.
 
vwboomer said:
I just built a half-assed sawbuck today. Just wasn't safe cutting 3-4" branches that were loose as they tended to get drawn into the saw.

Turning the log is a great idea in theory. But it's not always possible. Like when it's frozen to the ground. Or it's wedged at the base of standing trees on a wicked slope. Being new to cutting, I think I'm going to keep the stock chain and put it on in these circumstances. If it touches dirt at least it's not chewing up a nice chain.

1) If it's frozen to the ground then you're probably not going to lift it onto a sawbuck either, no?

2) Of the thousands of cord of wood I've cut, not one has been on a wicked slope. So, no help from me on that one.
 
stockdoct said:
Now that I've got my Stihl, I'm attacking logs too large to lift onto the sawbuck. Fun! Yowza, that saw rips!

But Ive learned on this forum that you should never let your saw blade touch the earth or it'll dull the cutters in an instant. So what's the best way to buck a log laying flat on the ground? Bring the sawblade through the wood almost to the ground then roll the log over to finish the cut? Or roll the log onto a small wedge or something to get it an inch off the ground?



You are right in that saw will do an excellent job for you. Hopefully you have a way to file the blade yourself too.

You are also right about dirt and the saw chain. They just don't mix well. I also do as you in bringing the saw blade almost through the log, rolling it over and finishing the cut. But wherever I can, I'll put small poles under the log so I can cut all the way through without rolling the log. On others, I'll use the cant hook to roll the log onto some poles.


I’m working on my Norway maple tree this weekend, 26” diameter with a 16” bar. Pretty heavy slabs to roll !

And this is where a cant hook will pay for itself over and over!




I’d rather pound a nail through my scrotum than take the time to lift tiny arm sized limbs onto a saw buck. I’ve tip cup thousands and thousands of feet of those rounds and the number of times I hit dirt you could count on one hand and still have fingers left over.

I've never tried the nail bit but I do use a sawbuck. With two people you can cut a lot of small limbs in a very short time using the sawbuck....and save the scrotum in the process.



Turning the log is a great idea in theory. But it’s not always possible. Like when it’s frozen to the ground. Or it’s wedged at the base of standing trees on a wicked slope. Being new to cutting, I think I’m going to keep the stock chain and put it on in these circumstances. If it touches dirt at least it’s not chewing up a nice chain.

Once again, a cant hook is the answer for rolling those frozen logs. Even that stock chain will get so it won't cut butter very fast.




Pardon me for asking, but people actually lift logs to place them in a sawbuck? Sounds like double the work to me. I like to place a small round under the fallen tree and move it as I go along. I also look for places to undercut the tree so I can help make manageable sized pieces.

Yes, we actually lift logs....but only the small ones, like the ones that are too small to be split after cutting. Well, maybe some 6" logs too if not too long. It really does save time. Besides that, for folks like me with a back back it is wonderful. My wife puts the logs up and keeps shoving them my way. All I do is stand straight up and keep sawing. Fast, easy and safe.
 
I place a few branches or a short (8') log across the fall line and land the tree on them when felling. It means the trunk is off the ground from the start, and easy to buck without touching the ground. I use the see-saw / roll the trunk along the ground log/branch technique as well and really like it. This is where you have the big ground log around the middle of the tree trunk, one end is heavier so the other is in the air, and you buck down until near the hinge point, then roll the trunk along the branches until you can buck your way down again. Only works on favourable ground (ie not snow-covered and fairly flat) and with branches and logs available for it, but is effective imho.
 
savageactor7 said:
I'd rather pound a nail through my scrotum......


Ow,ow ,ow, owww,ow,ow,ow!
 
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