Building a chimney with Class A pipe

[tiber]

I've pretty much resigned myself to missing burning this winter unless I either find someone selling legitimately seasoned wood (not likely) or I buy liberty bricks or similar. I've got months of summer left but I doubt it's enough to season anything and I've been far too busy.

So now that we're at the "submit drawings to the township and wait" part of this, I've worked out a lovely plan for the stove but I'm at a loss for two things:
1) How far up the wall should the thimble be? Assume double walled stove pipe. Ideally this should be as close to the ceiling as possible.
2) Double wall? Triple wall? Brand?

I do want galvanized because I want to be able to paint it, but I'm curious if there's any difference in the brands or construction. If there's stong opinion one way or another I'll certainly weigh it in. If they're all about the same I'll probably just go with whatevers cheapest and paintable.

 

[begreen]

To me, and this may just be my eye, but visually I like the connector to be a couple feet down from the ceiling. You don't want the thimble too high, especially if the connector is going to be single-wall pipe. It needs a minimum of 18" clearance, but I prefer 24". If double-wall connector, the clearance is 6", but again, I like to at least double that figure.

Simpson Duravent (classA) is good pipe, as is Selkirk. Around here, Excel is considered the premium pipe, but a bit harder to get.

As for wood, go ahead and order a couple cords of "seasoned" wood right now from a seller with references. Ask what type of wood and avoid the slower drying species this year. That way, even if not perfectly seasoned, it will have a few months drying time.

 

[tiber]

I was actually looking at the Duravent because that's what's locally available. However it's also spendy and doesn't seem to have much in terms of comprehensive documentation.

Six inches from the edge of the thimble plate or the center of the pipe? I can't even FIND the wall thimble in their catalog.

 

[begreen]

My catalog is probably old, but the wall thimble is on page 12. There is a separate document for Duravent's DuraTech pipe installation that is quite good.
http://www.duravent.com/docs/instruct/L150_Apr10.pdf

That is 6" from the outside of the double-wall pipe to the nearest combustible for DVL pipe.

If there are questions, give them a call. Their tech support is pretty good from what folks have reported here.

 

[CJRages]

BeGreen,

On that image you posted, it mentions that you must use dura-trch chimney pipe from the T, through the thimble, and a minimum of 6" into the room. My understanding is - this is talking about class A pipe extending into the room at least 6" from the thimble. Is that right? I thought I have seen installations where the class A stopped at the edge of the thimble and regular black stovepipe began right next to the thimble/wall.

 

[tiber]

BeGreen,

On that image you posted, it mentions that you must use dura-trch chimney pipe from the T, through the thimble, and a minimum of 6" into the room. My understanding is - this is talking about class A pipe extending into the room at least 6" from the thimble. Is that right? I thought I have seen installations where the class A stopped at the edge of the thimble and regular black stovepipe began right next to the thimble.

That was the next question since I too found that odd. I don't recall ever seeing an install done any other way. Is this something specific to the brand?

(This probably speaks volumes to my inexperience).

 

[begreen]

It's definitely possible to find installations like that and also possible they are incorrect installs, especially with single wall pipe connected and combustibles (like drywall paper) nearby. Some pipe makers (Security) have an interior finishing cone that creates the 6" protrusion.

 

[fossil]

...I do want galvanized...

No, you do not want galvanized stovepipe. You want regular steel stovepipe, usually comes painted flat black. You can paint it any color you choose so long as you use high temp paint like Stove Brite or equivalent. Rick

 

[tiber]

No I meant galvanized chimney pipe. I didn't even think they made galvanized stove pipe.

EDIT: Every time I think "man you'd have to be an idiot to try it"... https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Galvanized_stove_pipe_-_NO/

 

[begreen]

I think he is referring to the exterior pipe when talking about painting it. Personally, I would enclose it in a chase. Nah, I would run it interior.

 

[tiber]

I thought I posted the picture before?

The problem is that my house is a "muffin top" as my wife affecitonately calls it, but what it really means is that the walls don't line up. It makes for generous rooms upstairs, but try as I might I haven't been able to work out a plan which doesn't put a column or something in the middle of a wall or room. Plus I would need to penetrate the ceiling in the living room, the ceiling in a bedroom, then the roof.

Since I need 16ft of vertical pipe, going through the wall allows me to steal another few feet from the T up.

(big picture)
PICTURE IS HUGE

 

[fossil]

No I meant galvanized chimney pipe. I didn't even think they made galvanized stove pipe.

Got it, I misunderstood. Yeah, my Class A is galvanized on the outside on both chimneys. Haven't bothered to paint either of them. Rick

 

[CJRages]

It's definitely possible to find installations like that and also possible they are incorrect installs, especially with single wall pipe connected and combustibles (like drywall paper) nearby. Some pipe makers (Security) have an interior finishing cone that creates the 6" protrusion.

Does it make a difference if the wall contains combustibles? Like what if the wall your thimbling is concrete or brick to begin with?

 

[begreen]

I believe in that case with a cement or brick wall, the 6" interior extension is not required, but then neither is the class A thimble.