That wood you are cutting now is gonning to have a lot of moisture in it, I cut some Burr Oak this past spring that was logged 3 years ago and it was as green as a live tree, I am keeping a eye on the moisture for informational purposes and a month ago with a new split it still read over 40 % on several pieces. This wood is for next year and I am glad I do not have to use it this year.jstellfox said:Thanks for all the replies.....to answer the question on wood condition....I don't cut green. Only standing dead Red and White Oak. Its all Gypsy Moth mortality. some has been dead since last summer and some has likely died this spring after leaf-out.
jstellfox said:Thanks for all the replies.....to answer the question on wood condition....I don't cut green. Only standing dead Red and White Oak. Its all Gypsy Moth mortality. some has been dead since last summer and some has likely died this spring after leaf-out.
BeGreen said:Very interesting. Looks like moisture content is only part of the picture. Density should be in those charts as well. Look at how high sycamore is for MC, but it is listed as one of the faster drying woods.
oldspark said:That chart caused a stir a while back when battenkiller (I think) posted it as the drying times for 4X4 lumber are some what low compared to drying times for fire wood.
rdust said:oldspark said:That chart caused a stir a while back when battenkiller (I think) posted it as the drying times for 4X4 lumber are some what low compared to drying times for fire wood.
Yeah I remember that. I posted it more for a reference for starting m/c not so much for the drying time since most of us can prove the drying time wrong.
It says the reason for that was the timing of the year, if it went through the winter the drying time slowed way down compared to spring and fall.BeGreen said:rdust said:oldspark said:That chart caused a stir a while back when battenkiller (I think) posted it as the drying times for 4X4 lumber are some what low compared to drying times for fire wood.
Yeah I remember that. I posted it more for a reference for starting m/c not so much for the drying time since most of us can prove the drying time wrong.
They pretty well covered themselves. Look at the 3X plus fudge factor for drying ash, 60-200 days or 10X+ for redwood at a whopping 30-365 days. Like I posted earlier, there are lots of variables in drying wood. That's why it's good to get at least a year ahead.
BrotherBart said:This red oak blew down in a tornado in September 2004. In March of 2007 seven I bucked it up. The water poured out of the tree in a stream for four days. Not seeping. Pouring.
rdust said:Attached is a chart showing m/c of different woods, try to find types on the lower end when cutting in a pinch.
Skier76 said:The first year is tough. Best case, find someone selling seasoned wood...truely seasoned wood.
jstellfox said:...So I am wondering what you all have done during your first season of wood burning before you had the chance to begin stocking up and getting a year ahead? I know some of you will say you cut wood for a full year before you began burning, but what about you other guys that got a wood stove in the spring/summer and began cutting for your first season? Most people don't look far enough ahead to cut a year ahead for a stove they are planning to get. I am in a quandry as I plan to put a stove in for this winter and do not wish to go through another year of electric heat waiting for my wood I'm cutting right now to season.... Just wondering how some of you guys worked this out when you started your first burning season! Thanks in advance....
oldspark said:How about finding out if some one who belongs to the forum is close to you and has extra wood he can sell or trade.