Burning junk, can I burn 6 month seasoned birch?

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bogydave

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Dec 4, 2009
8,426
So Cent ALASKA
I'm down to the last bit of what I called my good wood. (now I know it's just BTUs)
I'm burning the spruce that was on the bottom that I used to keep the birch off the ground in the day time
& getting plenty of heat (but been 30s to 40s °F past week & maybe another week at least.
I'll definitely get the the wood pile are cleaned up of junk wood.
Loaded the house wood box. That & with what's left (middle pic) might be a good 1/3 cord.
I should be able to milk a month out of it it we don't get a long cold spell. (10 °F or colder)
I have some birch that was fell 1-1/2 years ago, I cut & split it in Sept. It is
checked good on the ends, 3/4 cords mostly birch. 1st & 3rd pic pics.
I may try some & see how it burns. (may try the ohm-meter reading from the moisture chart I got from a post here
& see what it reads by the moisture reading 1-1/4 inch probe distance in the middle of a split)

BUT NEXT YEAR, I tell you, I'll have some seasoned wood, that the HEARTH Forum bunch
would be proud of. (well should be anyway, you all coached me thru the process & it does look good so far)
 

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Unless you go out and spend a whole bunch of money on wood 2 years before you buy your stove, that seems like the normal progression for the wood gatherer. I am burning 2 year seasoned wood for the first time this year and enjoying the benefits. However, as I am loading the bucket off the stack every day, I still set aside the denser bigger straight stuff for when I really need the heat. There will always be "junk" to burn if you process your own wood.
 
Burn what you got. If it's questionably seasoned, just check your chimney once in awhile for creosote.
 
Hi -

Get it done. I ran that way the first year. with my stove and wood I ran a bit more air than normal and it worked fine. no issues with creosote except some on the chimney cap wires that keep birds out.

Birch is a blessing.

ATB,
Mike
 
Hi Dave,
Looking at those pics it appears much of that wood is burnable.. When I am not sure I'll stand them around the stove like soldiers and let em bake while I am home and after a day it usually works especially if you resplit them so you get to the interior moisture.. Oak is too stubborn for that and requires days of this "therapy"..

Ray
 
quads said:
Burn what you got. If it's questionably seasoned, just check your chimney once in awhile for creosote.
+1
 
7 month birch burning here. Stove is heating very well. Almost out though...
 
I'm betting that birch is in good condition to burn. Go for it Dave.
 
I am sure the birch will burn, perhaps not quite as well as it would burn next year, but what choice do you have? You will still be burning drier wood than most people. Creosote buildup isn't invisible - if it is happening you can see it and clean the chimney before it gets too bad.
 
As SAW and ZZR mentioned I suspect most first year burners do the same thing . . . if they were in fact lucky or smart enough to at least buy/cut some firewood and get it seasoned before their first year of burning . . . many of course don't even get seasoned wood in the first year . . . or like me had some seasoned wood and towards the end of the burning season had to make do with some semi-seasoned wood which was less than perfect. As Quads said . . . try 'er out and just keep a close eye on your chimney.
 
I like to buy a three year supply of Ash logs in Dec/Jan when I can but one year I couldn't find any and so got a load of Birch in March, just before the Winter roads broke up. I burned it the following Winter and it was marginal. The year after that it was better and the third year, it was just downright awesome.

Can you burn same year wood? Yes, I've done it often. Is it ideal? No, not even close.
 
Thanks for the feedback:

I just don't want to hurt the catalytic or gum up the chimney
I burned "same year" wood for years, (didn't know any better) I had creosote problems & 2 chimney fires , but I was told it was the oils in the birch bark.
Started cleaning chimney every month & getting a bucket full of creosote.
So when natural gas got here, I got a gas furnace & not much wood burning.
Now, price hikes in N gas, threats of N gas shortages & incentives/tax credits to upgrade, I got a new efficient wood stove.
Well now I know the moisture was causing the creosote not the bark. The new stove, burns lots less wood. (if it's good wood)
I'm sold on the idea "It's the wood stupid" & "dry wood is the key"
I'm thinking of smaller hot fires with it, if needed.
Start a small 6 split fire in the AM, burn it hot, let it go out.
Furnace can handle a little run time. We'll be over 10 hours of sun & over 20° sun angle in a week so worst of winter is done this year (knock on wood) :)
 
The wife once told me that we burned off/on for 6 months. I questioned that and she convinced me that was more correct than not. As a consequence I burn tons of junk wood mostly in shoulder season but it's all dry and bug free. While we've never burned birch sure why not? If it's dry sure try it you'll find out quick enough.
 
bogydave said:
I burned "same year" wood for years, (didn't know any better) I had creosote problems & 2 chimney fires , but I was told it was the oils in the birch bark.
Likewise. When I have to resort to Birch, I take off as much of the bark that will come off with the exception of the smaller rounds which have thinner bark. The bark also slows the drying process.
 
LLigetfa said:
When I have to resort to Birch, I take off as much of the bark that will come off with the exception of the smaller rounds which have thinner bark. The bark also slows the drying process.

Birch isn't my favorite firewood in the world, but I guess they don't see much hickory up in Alaska. Birch bark, however, is just about the best fire starter in the world. Why would anyone throw it on a fire that's already started? Sure, take it off, but save it. And it sure does hold in the moisture. They make canoes out of birch bark because it's basically waterproof. I'm surprised to see that little rot in birch that was felled - but not split - for 1 1/2 years. With our summers here it would be a desiccated tube of punk by then. Climate sure makes a difference.
 
Thanks
We have 3 trees in my area of Alaska. 2 options for fire wood, Birch & spruce. We have cotton wood, but "it don't burn good" & smokes allot, leaves behind more ashes,
never really dries out, the bark is 1-1/2" thick & when I get the chance to fell one, I'm happy leave it where it falls just to not have the cotton in the air.
They crap on you 5 times per year, plug all filters, & (well you get my opinion of cottonwood)
The only time bark comes off birch is in the spring, so the 9 cords I have were not cut in the spring so removing the bark is out.
One of the reasons I have so much 'Junk wood" is I didn't split the birch, I left it stacked up in round for a few years. (now I know better)
After about 3 years, a down birch is a pipe. I think our weather helped (frozen for 6 months) keep the birch decent wood longer, but I could see some breakdown
starting in the fibers on the older down stuff I salvaged.
Spruce, is the other choice & I have some, but compared to birch, the btu-s & burn times are considerably less. Shoulder & "January thaw" wood. Except this
year, it's what I got left. (then, if needed, I'm into the driest birch in the stack)
All that being said, birch is my wood of choice & favorite wood in Alaska, but not the "world", because of my options.
My favorite wood is hard maple(black maple, sugar maple) , but shipping it to Alaska might not be as cost effective as burning birch :)
 
Give it a try, you may have a few sizzlers and have to burn a little longer in the bypass mode but it will still burn.
 
bogydave said:
The only time bark comes off birch is in the spring, so the 9 cords I have were not cut in the spring so removing the bark is out.
I find that much of the bark that stays on after splitting will come loose after it is well seasoned. Almost moot at that point.

I've heard that some people will run their chainsaw down the length of the logs as soon as they fell Birch and that this will cause the bark to curl open and aid drying.
 
LLigetfa said:
bogydave said:
The only time bark comes off birch is in the spring, so the 9 cords I have were not cut in the spring so removing the bark is out.
I find that much of the bark that stays on after splitting will come loose after it is well seasoned. Almost moot at that point.

I've heard that some people will run their chainsaw down the length of the logs as soon as they fell Birch and that this will cause the bark to curl open and aid drying.

Thanks
That might work. Makes sense the bark is real wet, & as it starts to dry, should role back.
I'll give it a try, & get some pics this spring.
 
just leave the t stat on three for close to an hour and just gradually bring her down. bet ya it'll be fine.
 
ecocavalier02 said:
just leave the t stat on three for close to an hour and just gradually bring her down. bet ya it'll be fine.

That's how my junk gets burned, after a nice long burnoff with the bypass open.
 
I burned 2 good sized birch trees last year and while it doesn't throw the most heat and burns fast, it burns easily. Just save some of your seasoned wood and mix them together when you burn.
 
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