Cant hook as a log lifter/stand?

Can I change the tooth in the cant hook & make it easier/better to lift logs for cutting?
I used it today with mixed success. Saved cutting, & rolling the log then cutting the bottom on several logs today. Some wouldn't stay up off the ground, but all in all I never nicked the ground when cutting & the chain stayed sharp all day.



Have this cant hook:


Stihl sells this log stand, to attach to the cant hook, any reviews on how well it works?
Seem for my situation, I should have had one for a while. save on the back & time rolling logs & sometimes save the chain.

Dave, that stand works pretty good if the timberjack idea works for you.

The Stihl attachment is $40. I'm thinking that where I cut now, it may help.
But hate to buy something else to haul out wood cutting if it's not going to be beneficial.
Maybe I should just try it, since I'm cutting on a dirt/rock road.
I spend too much time trying to talk myself "into or out of" gimicks & sometimes should give it a try & move forward .
Pretty soon I'll look like an OSHA wood cutter, too much stuff to take to the woods to get wood, but safe. LOL

I hear ya. Running a crew-cab mid-size truck (big truck is currently down), I minimize what I take with me. Otherwise I'd cut all-day and have no way to get it all home.

I have a log jack but don't really care for it. When I try to lift a log (usually to get a chain under it) the "foot" just sinks into the ground under the weight of the log. The sandy loam soil we have around here doesn't offer a lot of support.

If you are have hard ground or work with smaller/lighter stuff it might work a lot better. After re-reading it sounds like you cut on a road so it might work out well.

What do you mean by 'change the tooth'? Like put a peavey point on it? Please elaborate.

Never used the stand, but I assume it is well built like the rest of their stuff. It would probably do what you want, on a solid surface.

How much does that hook cost painted orange? The blue one was painful enough , but a good investment.

Before I found the foot that attaches to the cant hook, I thought you had to pull the dog that digs into the log on the end of the cant hook & put in some kind of stand.

Stihl $109. Ordered online & picked it up at the nearby Stihl shop.
$40 for the foot attachment.

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/forestry-tools/

Will look at a timber jack & see if I need to add that to the wood processing tool chest

Dave, I hate those things and have nothing good to say about them. Much, much easier to roll the log onto one of the limbs you've cut off. Better yet is to cut some firewood length from the limbs and use 4-6 or more. Roll the log onto those and you have the log off the ground which is what you are striving for. In addition, it will save you about $100

Now that's an idea I wish I'd thought of. I could cut some , leave them where I cut along side the trail & throw them out when I go there cutting.

I have the cant hook (in the above pic) to roll the logs up on the limbs. Bought it last year. Saved my butt & back several times moving, un-sticking & handling some of the bigger birch logs. It bunged on the ATV now.

Anytime I have a wood cutting question, issue or problem I should just call you direct.
You'd save me money & frustration.
We Need a :
Backwoods Savage : "HOTLINE" ( 24/7/365 )

I ordered & paid for one of those gizmos to attach to the cant hook already, $39.95 but will incorporate the limbs in the next trip out.
May send it back un-used , (probably be $30 return shipping LOL )

I've got the log rite version with the stand, & like it pretty well. I leave it on the hook most of the time, & if I just want to roll the log I just grab farther over so the stand doesn't hit. I think this may be the one time I disagree with Dennis. A C

i have a logrite with stand, looks very similar to the stihl. i dont use it every time, but do use it when practical. bigger stuff. i do like it, do not regret it.

Interesting thread for me. I'm not too clear on the tool terminology/use though. The can't hook is mainly used to roll logs over, is that correct? Then I could see as (I think) Dennis suggested - use the can't hook to roll the log onto the cut pieces to elevate it for bucking w/o getting the saw into the dirt. Around here I think the "stand" attachment would sink into the ground much of the time.

I have one but not a stihl. Use it every time I cut in the woods. I've used it more then once to get a pinched bar loose. Great tool to keep the chain out of the ground.

I've got a timberjack and use it a lot. We have soft, sandy soil around here so I just carry an eight inch length of 2 x 6 and the jack never sinks into the ground.

Good idea.
Maybe I'll paint a piece of 3/4" X 8" X 8" plywood flo-orange & have it with me.

Now I'm skidding the logs to a trail that is rocky & pretty solid. (Frozen solid now)

Stand should be here today or tomorrow.
May get to do some cutting next week. Forecast to be clear & cold for at least 7 more days.

Hi -

I used that type of log jack for processing grapple loads for my older relatives when I was in school. It worked pretty well for similar sized logs on flat ground, especially frozen ground.

Since I buck and load the rounds whenre I drop them I don't haul the thing around any more. I do roll logs up onto 4-6" diameter limbs to get it off the ground for bucking.

Good luck,
Mike

I bought this Peavey Timberjack a few years ago.

I took of the jack after the first time I tried it and haven't used it since. It makes a pretty good Cant hook without the jack. I'm with Dennis on the Timberjack.

Dave,
I'm a little late to this thread . But ,I bought a cheap timber jack (northern tool. ). I used it maybe twice,took the stand off ,and now use it as a cant hook . It's just easier for me to cut most of the way through a log , then just roll it and finish the cuts . I'll likely buy a log rite as I like the quality of my hookaroon by them .

I have never used one of these things. I have seen and heard a bit about them but do not know if it would be that beneficial. I usually go down the log every 18 or 20 inches and just cut about half way through the log and then roll it over and cut through the other half. Seems to work fine. Sometimes if I have a larger tree I want propped up I can drop a small one across in front of it and then drop the bigger one on top of it after I have limbed it up. But, the woods I am working has way to many trees in it so this is not a problem. It needs a thinning out.

So do these timberjacks really help out that much? Like I said, I have never used one.

I used the timberjack. POS bent right away. Used a better quality of same concept, the biggest issue I had was that to lift a log you have to roll it slightly. If it is straight trunk and already limbed that works. Mostly I get big limbs in all directions and very hard to roll at same time as lifting.
I added a pivoting foot (I think about 5x8 3/16 plate, verticla angles about 1 inch, and 3/8 bolt as pivot) to my cant hook so it can lift slightly with less pivoting. It works a lot better.
will try and attach a pic

Its about like a moped its fun to ride until you got to get some where.

When you get over this way some time you can then own 2 of them.

I bought one and hate it too, thanks for the tip Dennis, I never thought of that.

Check baileys for the log rite stand attachment. They make those or Stihl, and I don't think I paid 40 for my stand.

gg