Cap Issues...

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isuphipsi1052

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 15, 2006
83
Upstate NY - Near Rochester
Was able to get on to the roof yesterday to do a quick sweep out of the chimney cap area. You could see that the chimney cap was heavily clogged. I wasn't, for the life of me, able to get the damn cap off. It appears as though the creosote has liquefied between the cap and the liner effectively gluing it in place. I was able to clear off the cap by tapping around it with a mallet (all the remains that fell through the liner were vacuumed at the stove), but I was not able to remove the cap. I was thinking I would probably need to heat it up with a propane torch at the end of the wood burning season in order to properly sweep the chimney. Any ideas or tips would be greatly appreciated.
 
When we had our old chimney replaced 20 years ago the mason refused to put a cap on it...well lets say he vigorously talked us out of it. Said they caused more problems... well we didn't and have no troubles to report.
 
I assumed that since I had the stove professionally installed, and since the unit came with a chimney cap - then I should continue to use it. If nothing more as a spark arrestor and for an animal (bird, squirrels, etc) deterrent.
 
Good morning isuphipsi1052, just to make it clear, I know nothing about chimney caps as fact. Like you I thought all chimneys should be capped even though our 100+ year old chimney wasn't. But the chimney mason just when on and on why it wasn't a good idea ...guess I was sold on the confidence of his expert opinion...

...just wish I could remember all his reasonings. Oh and our chimney is those long rectangular fired flue bricks surrounded by regular bricks...maybe that's part of the equation of why it's not capped.
 
"Hot" - Mine is a double-walled stainless liner, inside of a masonry chimney. Maybe there is a reason for no cap on a masonry, never really investigated it...
 
But I also think the surrounding terrain around the house can play a factor. My house is in a slight culvert from the road and is surrounded by high trees. The triple wall metal chimney I installed many years ago came with a regular cap and screen. After getting several / occasional backpuffs of smoke, especially on windy days, back into the basement where the wood stove is, I finally gave in and replaced it with the Vacustack with screen cap to give me more confidence. It stated to be the fix for my type of terrain. So far I have not gotten any back puffs.
-gary
 
Think everyone is missing the point. My cap will not come off because of the creosote that has dripped down between it and the liner. My question is what is the best way to get the cap off?
 
I promise I am not being a smart a--, but are you sure your cap doesn't have a couple of screws in it? My cap, which also attached to the liner, is held on by 3 sheet metal screws that I have to remove prior to removing the cap. If I am lazy or stove is burning, I will sometimes do as you did and just knock most of the buildup back into the liner and clean it out at the bottom. I typically have to do this procedure 3-4 times per winter, but I am hoping now that I have gone to a new high-efficiency stove (Jotul F600), I will be able to greatly reduce or eliminate this practice between bi-annual sweep visits.

And my sweep is exactly the opposite of one of the other posters in that he strongly argued for a cap w/screen to prevent moisture and birds from entering liner - said he had seen too many problems without a cap.

To your original question, I can't imagine creosote being hard enough to fuse the cap to the liner - it may be a snug fit, or even have a screw or two in it that you didn't notice, but a good tap or two from that mallet should loosen it up (try turning it sideways before trying to lift up) if it is just creosote.
 
I've had that happen. A couple minutes with a small propane torch to soften the creosote worked well. Make sure you take up a fire extinguisher if you try this route.
 
is this a metal pre-fabed chimney? I knowthat you have to twist them on.
 
Cap is most likely twist on, or has screws holding it in place.
Did you try tapping where the joint of the liner & cap are? As noted, heating it a lil will also help.
The cap is probably spec'd for the liner system and therfore may need to be installed as part of the warranty and/or fire rating. I am not 100% on this, but most systems want specific parts in place, as that is how they are tested.
 
There is only a single screw that works like a spring clamp style device. That is able to be completely loosened (you can see the slack all the way around the cap). I think I'm going to have to go with the propane torch idea...
 
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