Post in 'The Gear' started by thewoodlands, Jun 17, 2013.
I have the mesh and the flock for some of my saws, which do you like best?
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I've heard of folks using flocked for warmer cutting and mesh for cold (freezing) cutting to avoid the flock icing up - I've only run flocked and never had a problem in cold weather, so no personal experience to back up the claim. I keep the flock in real good shape (gentle reverse blow out with compressed air) after I cut and my Dolmar filter is 5 years old and still no problems. Cheers!
I have used both types over the years and can not honestly say that I have observed a difference between the two. On paper, the flock ones are supposed to be "superior". However I do want to warn folks about the use of "aftermarket" flock ones. I had definite problems with some aftermarket flock ones being too restrictive on their air flow causing significant problems with the saws running properly. Took the brand new "aftermarket" ones off and put the old dirty OEM ones back on and the saws ran perfect. After that I bit the bullet and paid more for OEM flock ones, although I did get them off ebay at a discounted price versus local dealers. The same saws ran perfect with new OEM flock ones installed, as expected.
Got a picture of each?
Didn't know there were 2 types
Always learning !
I get mine through our local Stihl dealer, here are some off the bay. The 1st one is the screen filter.
I have used oiled gauze air filters, oiled foam, and of course paper but I have no idea how to properly maintain the stihl filter that appears to have a flock type velvet on it. What are you supposed to do with that? Blow it off?
Out in the woods I use a small paint brush to knock the chit off, once I'm home I'll hit it with some air.
Always had the screen mesh filters here. Easy to clean.
Must be due to winter conditions.
Stock on my 359 husqy :
Any advantage to going with the fleece?
found this fleece one at bailey's:
Depends on the saw. My 044 and 066 have heavy duty air filters on them with foam pre-filters around corrugated paper filters, so there are no screen or flock type filters on those. On my smaller size saws I run only flock or fleece filters.
Generally you want to use flocked/fleeced air filters as they offer better filtration. Screen filters are usually only recommended for extreme and really low temperature cutting and they do not filter sawdust nearly as well as flocked ones. If you switch between the types, retune your carbs as the air flow will change.
I actually found some screen filters for my 015's.....and let me tell you, they are as rare as hen's teeth....
I use flocked in my other saws. I use a toothbrush in the field, and once in a while I'll use compressed air and blow the filter from the inside out......not on full power, either. Just enough air to remove the sawdust.
I have a flock one in the 405+. And was darned happy to find it when the original foam one on that 1991 hoss disintegrated. Not an easy saw to find parts.
Worth saying twice.
Here's what's on the 288XPW.Other saws are ultra fine mesh or flocked.
Would love to find the aluminum velocity stack (the foam filter & aerosol tacky oil are readily available on the West Coast) for my 2100CD eventually too.
There are actually 3 types,
Fleece, Flocked, and Mesh.
That also happens to be my preference, in that order. Of course, they're all trumped by the HD automotive style filters like what Husky and Stihl bith use on their bigger pro saws. (ie: Stihl's HD and HD2 filters.)
I'll stay with the type that came on the saw.
Normally I'm not cutting in dusty,dirty, dry conditions.
Generally, it's good cricket to re-adjust your screws any time you replace the air filter, whether the same type or not. I recently bought an 036 PRO which was running real rich. I adjusted it closer to optimal, and life was good. Then I put a new air filter on it, and found it was running lean! Same OEM filter, just cleaner = better flow.
Yep, that is why you want to clean the AF and muffler screen ->before<- you tune your saws. Also when changing them out, or changing types.
The same thing can happen if you tune your saws at high elevation and then go down to sea level here; more air means they will run lean and overheat, and that will result in a scored engine. And speaking of adjusting screws, also make sure the carb is seated tightly on the intake manifold. Air can leak into the seals around the base of a loose carb and you can run lean that way as well.
For me if I can knock it on a piece of wood and or an air compressor am all good. That is why all my small engines are k and n!
I have both types for my 031 and it seems like the screen one does not do as good in real dry dusty conditions. I always find dust inside the filter. This is not the case if I use the flock style filter.
I hear that!
I'm workin' on it!!
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