Post in 'The Gear' started by biggins08, May 31, 2007.
If I am running a Husky 359 3/8 chains and want to go to .325 I need to switch sprockets correct?
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I don't know the answer, but the question is: WHY?
I had a 359 and it is a fine chainsaw with the original or oregon chains. Just change the chain every time you have sharpened it to the point the tooth become too small.
PS. I believe you need a different drive sprocket, bar and bar sprocket. Chain is different so everything that the chain runs on, has to be replaced. But I am not the best expert so I could be wrong.
Yes, you need a new sprocket. Many Huskys use a ring sprocket, which costs about $2 and should probably be installed by the dealer, since you need an air wrench or special tool to do it yourself. The old rule of thumb is that if you're going to change sprockets, make sure you start it off with a new chain. A worn chain can chew up a new sprocket. But that sounds like your strategy, anyway.
BTW, you will also need a new bar, since a 3/8 bar won't work with .325 chain, either.
So between the new bar, chain and sprocket, you're probably looking at $75. Maybe worth it; maybe not--depending on how you intend to use the saw.
Hey Niels--how do you like the 346xp? I'm still getting used to mine, but I love all the extra power and less weight. It will do everything from felling big trees to clearing brush and cutting down slash, no problemo.
Just curious. Don't think it is worth the investment....
Here is Niels with the new 346xp. It is nice, Really nice. I love how little it weighs. I can cut all day if I need to. And it has plenty of power. Starts right up every time. But then again; a new saw should do that anyway. So far, about 5 tanks of gas used.
I cut up that basswood tree (someone there told me it seemed like ash to them). It did the job wonderfully. I sharpened it every tank and that worked well. I did not like that the teeth don't have the extra mark for the correct angle on them. Makes it harder to sharpen correctly. But in AUgust at the woodmens field days, I will get 2 extra chains hopefully with the line on them.
I was surprised about how small (narrow) the chain and teeth are compared to my 'old' 359 72 chain. That was a real chain with real teeth. These are sort of whimpy. But with the same power and smaller teeth, it does not bog down as often as the 359.
All in all, I have been very happy with it. I have been offered several trees and Nimo is clearing around the powerlines in our area. Lots of wood. But many others that want to take it too. Luckily, I have my 2007-08 supply cut, split and stacked, but it would be nice to work on 2008-09 already. But 82 degrees is too hot to cut.
See you again soon when the boiler comes in.
Don't be fooled by the diminutive appearance of that 325 50-gauge chain, Niels. It's the real deal.
I've got about 20 tanks through my new 346xp with that chain, and it's not even halfway used up. Barring some tragedy like hitting a big rock, it ought to be good for 50 tanks, which is 25 full cords of wood. That's a whole summer's worth of cutting for me. Not bad for a $12 chain. And it EATS wood.
Your observation about the saw not bogging down is something I noticed the other day. Compared to my old Model 55, this thing doesn't slow down at all, no matter how big the tree or knot. At the end of the day you don't feel like you've cut all that much wood, but you have. You just haven't expended as much energy trying to coax the saw through the cut. And you've been doing a lot more work with a lot less weight.
It's kind of like splurging on a new car. The first couple of thousand miles you're thinking: "All that money--what's the big deal?" After driving it for awhile, however, you begin to appreciate the subtle differences that make it special.
I'm not sure that anybody makes a 325 50-gauge chain with the scribe marks. You have to check it with a gauge or learn to eyeball it, unfortunately. The only chain I've ever used with the scribe is the 3/8 72-gauge Oregon model that fits on my Jonsereds Model 90. I honestly don't know why they don't stamp it into every chain model.
You nailed it on the head with your first sentence. It is indeed whimpy looking, but boy, can it cut. I was offered a maple tree and went to cut it up. Now I know what you guys mean when you talk about hard wood. These were solid pieces of wood. Incomparable when compared to the cherry, ash and aspen I have been cutting and splitting in the last few years. The 346 cut like a champ, no kickback whatsoever, no bogging down, no jumping pieces of wood, nothing. Just pure cutting bliss. I am really glad I made the switch.
You can pick up loops of that chain at the CJ display at the Boonville show for around $10 each.
Come on up to Old Forge sometime, Niels, and I'll introduce you to some beech.
stick with the 3/8 chain.i would recommend swithcing to the stihl 33 RSC (rapid super comfort) chain though.
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