Hello all, Last season we replaced our old kodiak stove with a newer epa hearthstone phoenix. Almost immediately I noticed that the existing chimney was going to be a problem. The flue will not stay warm enough to get a complete burn along with trouble starting the fires. The existing chimney is 8x8 terra cotta exterior block . I'd like to reline with a single wall stainless but after measuring the clay flue : a little over 6 3/4" and the inside thimble 6" inside diameter. Wondering if this is feasable. How could you make a connection with a T in this situation? The stove pipe entering the thimble is a snug fit a few inches of pipe into the thimble. Some pictures are attached. Any help would be appreciated. Stove uses 6". Current install 6" single wall
chimney help
- Thread starter jbjshark
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If my math is correct, from mid way to that window you have 15 8" chimney blocks = 120" or 10' I think you suffer from not enough verticle height
Add a 90 elbow to the setup , that is an effective 5' verticle height. My figuring you are probably 8' to 12' short of what is required. No wonder it does not draft correctly.
I doubt a liner is going to make up that discrepancy
Really sorry to give you this news and welcome to the hearth
Add a 90 elbow to the setup , that is an effective 5' verticle height. My figuring you are probably 8' to 12' short of what is required. No wonder it does not draft correctly.
I doubt a liner is going to make up that discrepancy
Really sorry to give you this news and welcome to the hearth
Hello Jbjshark, this is a easy one. Your chimney is going the wrong way. It needs to go up not sideways. Someone has to be a smart a@@.
Don
Don
thanks for the replys , the stove call for 13' minimum chimney. Should I abort this setup and opt for a class A Chimney or can you extend pipe beyond the last flue tile? I'm leaning towards the class A. Would extending the existing chimney still leave me with poor results?
Chimney guidelines are just that - guidelines.....in your case, going taller will help. Your options, given the existing chimney:
1. Lining it will help, especially if you can pour insulation in the small space around the liner (vermiculite, etc,). You could use rigid pipe to vent it - flex is usually bigger in outside diameter. There is a special T section with no snout attached which can be lowered down and then the pipe inserted though your thimble into it. IN certain cases, the thimble must be removed - if so, make certain that the wall pass through it correct.
2. The chimney is not up to code above the peak - it must be 3 feet above the peak - does not look that high by the pic. You should add on one flue tile and at least 2 chimney blocks......
3. When you run the liner, you can extend it out part the top of the chimney and use an extendaflue to extend it about 3 foot further - see:
http://www.extendaflue.com/cast.html (cc88 castings with adapter).
The end result will be an insulated, round chimney 5 foot taller than you have now....which should work much better.
Your other option is to install a class A metal chimney straight up - that will work as well or probably better than the improved masonry chimney.
1. Lining it will help, especially if you can pour insulation in the small space around the liner (vermiculite, etc,). You could use rigid pipe to vent it - flex is usually bigger in outside diameter. There is a special T section with no snout attached which can be lowered down and then the pipe inserted though your thimble into it. IN certain cases, the thimble must be removed - if so, make certain that the wall pass through it correct.
2. The chimney is not up to code above the peak - it must be 3 feet above the peak - does not look that high by the pic. You should add on one flue tile and at least 2 chimney blocks......
3. When you run the liner, you can extend it out part the top of the chimney and use an extendaflue to extend it about 3 foot further - see:
http://www.extendaflue.com/cast.html (cc88 castings with adapter).
The end result will be an insulated, round chimney 5 foot taller than you have now....which should work much better.
Your other option is to install a class A metal chimney straight up - that will work as well or probably better than the improved masonry chimney.
I wouldn't tear that down. There are a lot of folks with Class A chimneys that have draft problems. A search or browse of the forums should tell you that.
Cement chimney blocks and clay liner are SO cheap, why not add some height? Get a mason if you're not comfortable doing it. Example, the materials to add another eight feet should be less than $100.00. Not more than a days work for labor.
A liner may help. If you really read through many of these posts, you'll realize it's all a guessing game anyways. I'd take the cheapest route first.
Cement chimney blocks and clay liner are SO cheap, why not add some height? Get a mason if you're not comfortable doing it. Example, the materials to add another eight feet should be less than $100.00. Not more than a days work for labor.
A liner may help. If you really read through many of these posts, you'll realize it's all a guessing game anyways. I'd take the cheapest route first.
check also the ash cleanout door at the bottom of the flue, they tend to leak air into the flue. this is not as big a problem with old "smoke dragons" but when running a modern unit they can and often do cause cool air intrusion and draft issues. if the door does not have a gasket already , seal it up with a gasket of some type , and attempt to burn one more time to see if that helps ya.
Hi guys,
I would like to add another option:
- Why can't he remove the thimble and go straight out from the stove straight back through the hearth into the chimney? That also saves him one 90 degree elbow (= 3 ft) and the chimney will work better. But more length is definitely advisable and naturally Stoveguy 2ESW is right. Any leaks will diminish draft.
Good luck. Do it quick before it gets to cold and you can't cement even though you have to depend on the stove for heat.
carpniels
I would like to add another option:
- Why can't he remove the thimble and go straight out from the stove straight back through the hearth into the chimney? That also saves him one 90 degree elbow (= 3 ft) and the chimney will work better. But more length is definitely advisable and naturally Stoveguy 2ESW is right. Any leaks will diminish draft.
Good luck. Do it quick before it gets to cold and you can't cement even though you have to depend on the stove for heat.
carpniels
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