Chimney through Garage roof advice and tips

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Rougement

New Member
Oct 20, 2009
54
Mn, US
Hey all,

Last year I installed a Vogelzang Colonial and Chimney liner kit with lots of help from this forum, thanks!

This year I want to be able to heat my garage so I can be in there during the freezing Northern Minnesota winter.

It's a typical truss framed gable garage with exposed joists and a straight run up to the OSB and steel roof. The pitch isn't too steep.

I see kits online to do this but the instructions are often complex and cover every single possible permutation so I'm getting a little confused. Money is very tight so what's the most cost-effective way of putting double walled pipe through this roof, supporting it and flashing? Are the duravent/selkirk kits the only game in town? I don't mind doing more work to save money on this.

Also, any tips for installing the flashing? Obviously it's got to go under the steel roof at the highest point, how do I get it under there?

Any advice appreciated :)
 
Check building codes first as wood burners are not normally allowed in a garage.
 
I'm pretty sure it's allowed but i've contacted the Mn department of safety for a definitive answer.

Assuming they say it's OK, does anyone have any advice on the rest of my post?
 
Here are a few pics of what I have done. I have double wall connector pipe (Simpson DVL) from the stove to a square ceiling support box. This is where it changes from the connector pipe to the insulated class A pipe (Simpson Duratech). As for the flashing for metal roofs, there are several ways to do so. Some have a flexible metal or silicone base, while others are cut to fit metal. You can vist several manufacures websites to see what they have to offer & look at installation instructions. I made my own by copying the Excel EMFA design. I was fortunate in my planning, that I was able to exit near the peak, avoiding any extra cuts in the roof.
 

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Backwoods Savage said:
Check building codes first as wood burners are not normally allowed in a garage.

Building codes? what is this strange word you use? In southeastern Ohio we make sure we don't have any of those pesky little things so you can do whatever your heart pleases ;)
 
I get better go tell everyone they have to work in a -10* garage cause their stove is against "code" Hahahaaaahhhhhahahahaha.
 
If you have a corrugated metal roof, then the better way to do it would be like gasavage has done w/ his... if it is a standing seam, then:

punch a center hole thru. set the flashing over the center hole (center the hole visually from the opening on top of the cone!). Trace out the outline of the flashing's lower oval witha a sharpie or spray paint. cut out this oval. Then, about 2/3rds to 3/4 way down, cut a perpendicular slit the width of the flashing on either side. from there, the flashing should slide up under the roofing, and provide an overlap to the roof. secure w/ a few rubber grommeted screws.
 
Thanks for the advice on the roof guys! The install looks like something I can do easily enough.

I got word from the state:

"This issue is actually regulated under the Minnesota Mechanical Code (MMC). MMC Section 901.3 states that solid fuel burning appliances shall not be installed within hazardous locations. The MMC defines a hazardous location as any location considered to be a fire hazard for flammable vapors, dust, combustible fibers or other highly combustible substances. Since garages are often used to store flammable and combustible liquids, it would be reasonable for a code official to consider a garage as meeting the definition of a hazardous location, and thus prohibit the installation of a woodstove.

NFPA Standard 211 (Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents and Solid Fuel Appliances) specifically prohibits the installation of solid fuel appliances within garages, but this standard has not been adopted in our state. However, many insurance companies will follow this standard and thus will not issue a policy for garages containing woodstoves.

I understand you are looking for a definitive answer, however we (State Fire Marshal Division) are unable to provide one since we are not the agency responsible for the interpretation of the Minnesota Mechanical Code. I have copied this email to Scott Nelson from CCLD (Construction Codes and Licensing Division), the organization responsible for the interpretation of the MMC. Mr. Nelson will better be able to address your question."

So it's not that it's a garage per se, it's all about the stuff people keep in garages. I'm planning to build a stud wall inside the garage to split it in two - a place for the cars and a small woodshop. Even though I'd keep gasoline etc in the side away from the stove I'd still be creating wood dust running a planer, etc.

I guess I'd have to look at a big shop vac installation with hoses everywhere to suck up all the dust and chips.

I'm beginning to wonder if it's worth it.
 
The stove should be installed on an 18" high platform to be safe from heavier fumes that might accumulate say a gas tank or fuel line started to leak. But I have to agree with you. By the time you have partitioned the work space off is it worth it? The big exhaust system is going to compete with the stove and could cause it to backdraft, especially with a short flue.
 
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