Semi retired F/F with extensive construction knowledge (self employed in the stone and tile trade) but minimal wood stove experience. Looking to insert stove in masonry FP in my house ( circa 1943) but my clearances aren't there in ref. to mantle and more severely, top wood trim facing. I have 25" from a 22" H fire box (on several models) to the mantle, with most requirements @ 30" (specifically the Timberwolf Epi22) and more critically, I have only 12" to the wood facing (1" projection) w a requirement of 22" (same model). Thru headache inducing research, I've come to the conclusion that I may be limited to a pellet, in which my clearances are all w/i range. I hate to remove replace or alter the mantle and surround, it's original to the house. I have stumbled on a insert (Lopi Answer) that does fall into all the clearances needed and would suffice my needs of supplemental heat for a poorly insulated, 1400 sq. ft. house. Any recommendations, on shields, specific models, pellet vs. wood (besides the look of the flame) and/or safe methods of overcoming these hurdles. Frustration is setting in, winter is around the corner and I need supplementary heat. I have boiler/ radiator system and don't want to overtax system like I did last year. PS my fireplace opening is 27.5H x 36W x 24D.Thank you.
combustible clearance hurdles
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BruceNorEast
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Hello AllSixOfUs, welcome!
Like you, I was a few inches short from the board below the mantel to the stove top clearance. Made a simple shield from a piece of flat aluminum purchased at a local hardware store (Drilled a few small holes in the wood - easily patchable, and inserted machine screws (not wood screws) into the holes, turned them in which tapped the holes, backed them out, marked the aluminum for where to drill the holes, then used nuts and lock washers to hold the aluminum away from the wood - all you need is a one inch gap). Tested this out and it works great.
Good luck to you!
Like you, I was a few inches short from the board below the mantel to the stove top clearance. Made a simple shield from a piece of flat aluminum purchased at a local hardware store (Drilled a few small holes in the wood - easily patchable, and inserted machine screws (not wood screws) into the holes, turned them in which tapped the holes, backed them out, marked the aluminum for where to drill the holes, then used nuts and lock washers to hold the aluminum away from the wood - all you need is a one inch gap). Tested this out and it works great.
Good luck to you!
Thanx for the reply BNE. I guess my problem is, with my past experience in the fire dept., I want to make sure this is a viable option. Thru my research, I too chanced upon this "shield" option. I found that a recommendation of a min. Of .013 thickness of L shaped sheet metal with one leg meas. of 1" (anchored to my slate face several inches below the wooden face and 8 + or - above the fire box) and a 4" leg extending or protruding beyond the fire box face (assuming the fire box face does not extend beyond 4"). I'm not the computer aficionado but I'm going to try to put a picture of my FP. Thanx again.
Welcome to the forum!
What is your budget? There is for example the Pacific Energy Neo 2.5 with 16" mantle clearance and 11.5" to the side. With a 2.5 cu ft firebox it should have sufficient firepower for your home. The Osburn Matrix insert may also fit and the Regency I2400 as well. Look for an insert with a firebox of 2 to 2.5 cu ft. A flush-mount may be more likely to fulfill your requirements but you may find some others that protrude and still fit.
What is your budget? There is for example the Pacific Energy Neo 2.5 with 16" mantle clearance and 11.5" to the side. With a 2.5 cu ft firebox it should have sufficient firepower for your home. The Osburn Matrix insert may also fit and the Regency I2400 as well. Look for an insert with a firebox of 2 to 2.5 cu ft. A flush-mount may be more likely to fulfill your requirements but you may find some others that protrude and still fit.
Looking at the picture now. You will need to extend the hearth. Do you really have 12" to the sides?
BruceNorEast
Member
That's Gorgeous, I can understand why you'd prefer to leave it as it is.
FYI: I don't think you need to drill into the slate, I had a similar issue and drilled vertically into the edge of the wood above the slate (in my case bricks), look carefully at the first photo:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/hearthstone-phoenix-installed.131158/
FYI: I don't think you need to drill into the slate, I had a similar issue and drilled vertically into the edge of the wood above the slate (in my case bricks), look carefully at the first photo:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/hearthstone-phoenix-installed.131158/
I know my hearth is shy of 16" but I can resolve that by removing some flooring and replacing with slate
From hearth to underside of mantle (top of dental molding) is 47, to top of mantle 51". Keeping in mind of a 22 to 25"H firebox. Thanx BNE, Grisu and all others for the interest and response
Mantle side to side? Width (outside dimension of wooden legs) 64" , inside of legs 50", mantle length 77"
Just meant as an example: Regency I2400: Height 21.5", clearance to top facing: 12", clearance to mantel 20"; width: 25", clearance to side facing: 8" each side
I think that would fit.
P.S. Those are the listed minimum clearances.
I think that would fit.
P.S. Those are the listed minimum clearances.
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Actually the PE Super that I have may fit. 21" tall, clearance to mantel 15". The sides may be getting close: 36" with blower and 6.5" to each side would just be under your 50". Great insert, some of the longest burn times for a medium-size stove. Try a forum search and the review section for opinions about individual stoves. https://www.hearth.com/talk/link-forums/stove-reviews.35/
your suggestions have been the compass Ive been needing. going to do some more research on the stoves mentioned and will post again tomorrow. Sleep well all. thanx again
I'm wondering if the 15" clearance to underside of mantle considers my 1" deep wood facing underneath? I have PE's manual.
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