Combustion air from ??

[TFOG]

My brother has had a PE Summit for years and uses combustion air from the room it sits in. When I installed my PE Summit in Washington State I was told I had to pull air from an outside source instead of the inside air. When I say outside source it isn't exactly the case. I ran a bendable 4" aluminum vent tube from my stove location up thru the wall behind it into the attic space(done during construction) . I tied it with wire near the peak of the roof in the attic to an 2x10 which was part of a truss. Put a plastic screen type thing on the end to keep critters out. I have a 6/12 pitch roof so have major area in my attic. The attic end is however about 20 feet above where the stove sets. My draw seems to be ok but does not seem as good as my brothers coming from inside air(he has no building restrictions). My question of you all is: How many of you pull air from the inside without any problem. Guess the fear is that all the oxygen will get sucked out of the house. I have been considering trying inside air to see if I can notice a difference. Think state law requires outside air in many states. Appreciate any feedback you could offer. Thanks.

 

[LLigetfa]

Guess the fear is that all the oxygen will get sucked out of the house...

No, that is not the reason.

Running an OAK vertically to the attic puts you at risk of it reversing at startup and sending fire up the wrong way. I'm surprised it passed inspection.

 

[begreen]

So what you're saying is that this oak setup sucks? :long: :lol: LOL.

I agree. It's going to act like a vent to the attic and will be trying to suck air instead of supply it.

Disconnect this now and cap it off at both ends or remove it. I think you will notice a difference. A new OAK should be installed with the intake at or lower than the OAK inlet on the stove.

 

[SlyFerret]

That setup probably is killing your draft too, from what I know of stack effect.

-SF

 

[jdonna]

I am guessing because of the air exchange happening with roof/ridge vents is the method to the madness. However one could view it as a negative pressure zone and inhibiting draw.

If code states that you need an oak, why is it not ran to an exterior wall lower than the inlet?

 

[fossil]

Nice try, TFOG, but what you installed is not an OAK...it's more like an AIAK, or Alternative (and inferior) Interior Air Kit. You've made it more difficult for your stove to breathe. Get rid of it. If you want to install an OAK, install an OAK.

 

[TFOG]

:ahhh:
Would love to install an OAK. Concrete slab floor. Stove on center interior wall. Either knock holes in walls and drape the OAK thru two or three rooms or run it across the floor of the great room to outside(about 24 feet in either direction). Could you all help decide which would be easier and safest? I was asking the question because I have no options. Either I use inside air, continue with what I have or forget I even have a stove(not likely). By the way it has been burning this way for 5 years. Thanks to all for pointing out my "Inferior" install.

 

[fossil]

I don't have an OAK on either of my stoves, and they both burn just fine. Rick

 

[TFOG]

:-S
Thanks Rick. SORRY!! about my rant. Frustration set in before I had my first cup of coffee and my brain was in gear!

 

[danham]

Though not easy or pleasant, your decision is very simple and straightforward. I sympathize that state code is not being smart or logical, but even considering that, here's your choices:

Run an illegal setup that will work just fine (use room air for combustion); or run an illegal setup that you already know isn't working well at all (your attic improvised-OAK); or obey the law (as ill-advised as it may be) and have your stove also work properly.

I know which one your insurance company would advise.

-dan

 

[TFOG]

Thanks for making my "you know what" pucker at the thought of insurance.
You have made my day :bug:

 

[danham]

I know; sorry 'bout that, but as the saying goes, "You can pay me now, or you can pay me later." Good luck.

-dan

 

[begreen]

Go ahead and try it without the OAK. I think you'll see an improvement. If not, crack open the nearest window about 1/2" and see if that helps.

 

[LLigetfa]

The purpose of the OAK is not to prevent oxygen in the home from being consumed. It is to prevent the stove from out-competing the draft of other naturally drafted appliances. If you don't have other appliances such as an oil or gas water heater or furnace, then it is not much of an issue. Just disconnect the OAK as others suggested and provide for make-up air somewhere else. No OAK is a lesser evil than an OAK that may want to reverse and vent hot gasses.

 

[TFOG]

Certainly going to disconnect my RopaDope OAK and go to inside air.
Thanks for everyones input. I am better off for it !!

 

[seeyal8r]

I use room air for my combustion. The negative air in the house is replaced through any number of places. No house is air tight and I sure wouldn't worry about using all the air up in a 2000 square foot house unless you had a few hundred people in there and you never opened the doors and you caulked or painted your windows shut and didn't have a dryer vent and you stove didn't have a vent outside.

 

[fossil]

...When I installed my PE Summit in Washington State I was told I had to pull air from an outside source instead of the inside air...

Let's go all the way back to your initial post...you were told by whom? I've just spent an inordinate amount of time looking through Washington State websites trying to find this mandate, and failed. Here in Oregon, when I installed two new EPA-certified stoves back in 2007, the Oregon State rules were such that if I wanted to apply for a state tax credit, then I had to install OAK's on my stoves, otherwise, there was no such requirement. So, I'm just curious as to who it was that told you the OAK is mandatory? Rick

 

[danham]

@fossil:

I'ma newbie and can't speak with authority on the pros and cons of OAKs, but what I read strongly suggests that they are often required by regulation in places where they are not needed and for the wrong reasons.

This is from the King County, WA government web site:

GENERAL requirements for solid fuel burning appliances and fireplaces
Please note the following requirements from the Washington State Ventilation and Indoor Air Quality Code (VIAOC), Sections 402.2, 402.3, and 402.4:
â–ª Tight-fitting metal or ceramic glass doors
▪ A source of primary combustion air from outside the structure, connected to the appliance aspermanufacturer’sspecification
â–ª The air inlet shall originate at a point below the firebox
▪ The duct shall be four inches or more in diameter, may not exceed 20 feet in length, and must be installed according to manufacturer’s instructions.
â–ª Exception: Combustion air may be supplied to the room in which the solid fuel burning appliance is located, rather than using direct ducting, provided that one of the following conditions is met:
Bulletin 23
03/17/2009 Page 2 of 4
â–ª â–ª
The solid-fuel-burning appliance is part of a central heating plant and is installed in an unconditioned space in conformance with the Uniform Mechanical Code.
The solid fuel-burning appliance is installed in existing construction directly on a concrete floor or surrounded by masonry materials as in a fireplace.

-dan

 

[TFOG]

:bug:
Going to have to take the 5th on your question. To long ago for this old mind to remember. Sorry !
Take care u all.