Convection/fan for sheet rock around chimney upstairs?

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samhoff2

Member
Aug 12, 2011
61
Wyoming
Hello all,

We have put in a new delta2 fireplace downstairs. The master bedroom is above this area, which necessitated putting the pipe through the bedroom (see picture).

Last night I built my first (small) fire in the fireplace to try it out, and the (triple walled) chimney got quite warm: warm enough that I could touch it but not hold my hand on it for any length of time.

Apparently code requires we sheet rock 3 walls around this chimney in our bedroom.

I am wondering about (1) installing a vent at the bottom of the chimney with another one at the top, thus to allow convection to heat the bedroom from chimney heat, or (2) to somehow install an in-wall fan at the bottom to blow air in and then force it out the top, or (3) is there another idea I'm missing? Are ideas 1 and 2 up to code?

Thanks in advance for any help,

Sam
 

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A vent grille at the top an bottom should be ok. Just keep all combustibles including the drywall a minimum of 2" away from the pipe.
 
If you do decide to install the vent I would check with your fire inspector first. I have the same situation as you. I wanted to install two vents and my fire inspector said it would be against code. My situation is a little different. I have a wood stove with a cathedral box on the first floor. Your fireplace and jurisdiction may have different requirements. Good luck.
 
Have him show you the code. It would be good to see it in print. This topic comes up a few times a year so if it is code, then it would be good to have the actual section. FWIW, a friend had the same issue locally and they let him do it.
 
[Disclaimer: I hate bureaucracy.]

So, what happens if it is "against code" and I do it? I understand that if I tried to sell the house later it would get a red flag during inspection (I don't plan on selling this house until I'm in my 70's by the way... many, many years from now).

The whole notion of "codes" dictating what I should or should not do... I liked it better when it was the good ol' USA. (Yes, even if some of the codes are good ones that make me safer).

Forgive my rant and please answer my question if you know,

Thanks,

Sam
 
Worst case scenario would be if you were sloppy, left some wood pieces and sawdust in the ceiling support box and a fire happened. Insurance might claim negligence and homeowner fault? If you make it safe, don't scrimp on any clearances. That is a minimum of 2" to any combustible from the pipe, so make it 3". And clean up everything well, I'd say you should be ok.
 
samhoff2 said:
[Disclaimer: I hate bureaucracy.]

So, what happens if it is "against code" and I do it? I understand that if I tried to sell the house later it would get a red flag during inspection (I don't plan on selling this house until I'm in my 70's by the way... many, many years from now).

The whole notion of "codes" dictating what I should or should not do... I liked it better when it was the good ol' USA. (Yes, even if some of the codes are good ones that make me safer).

Forgive my rant and please answer my question if you know,

Thanks,

Sam

Take it easy Sammy. Codes are a minimum so dont drop below that. Codes came from the school of hard knock, usually learned from someone elses loss. Everything has its bases and you or someone else that moves in and out of someones home shouldn't pay the price for the good old IGNORANCE from someone else. The good old USA is still trying to look after most of ya. ;)
Now back to what you are doing I would say is A OK. It is done that way in my home and many others. Its class A pipe. That is your fire stop. Its just enclosing it to prevent that too hot on the hands feel/face or whatever may come in contact with it. It makes it safe for you or whoever may be in your home. Now your other question............ If something wasn't to code and showed reason that it was ignored or due diligence was not brought into play........Your good old of USA insurance company may take offence to that and not cover you in a situation that may even not be related to the real cause.

Cheers
 
BeGreen said:
Worst case scenario would be if you were sloppy, left some wood pieces and sawdust in the ceiling support box and a fire happened. Insurance might claim negligence and homeowner fault? If you make it safe, don't scrimp on any clearances. That is a minimum of 2" to any combustible from the pipe, so make it 3". And clean up everything well, I'd say you should be ok.

And there is the real key. Not to code? Your fault if something happens. Better to go with code or exceed it. For example, they want 2" clearance but there is nothing that says you can't to 3" or 4". That way you exceed code so are extra safe and have your backside covered.

btw, our SS chimney goes up along side of the house and it does get too warm to hold a hand on it when burning hot in mid-winter. So yes, it needs clearance. Consider what it might be should you have a chimney fire.
 
(So that this thread does not get bogged down in politics/my defense of libertarianism etc, I shall try to stick to the issue and refrain from future rants on bureaucracy etc. :) )

Unless I'm confused what I'm offered is two choices:

1. Box the chimney in on all 4 walls with sheet rock at least 2" away.
2. Box the chimney in on all 4 walls with sheet rock at least 2" away, AND have a vent in the lower and upper to create convection and thus warm the room when there is a fire going.

I'm having a hard time understanding why in the world option 2 could be worse or more unsafe than option 1. (Or not up to code). By my way of thinking, option 2 offers superior cooling of the air/chimney with the added benefit of warming the room. ?

I guess my one thought is that if I don't have a fire in the chimney, will the chimney be cool and thus cool down the bedroom? Perhaps I need vents with louvers that open and close so that I have some measure of control?

Thanks,

Sam
 
I'm still waiting to hear the code chapter and verse, but if I were to hazard a guess it would be that the totally enclosed space will both contain the fire longer and starve the fire oxygen. Adding a vent grille negates these protections.
 
BeGreen said:
I'm still waiting to hear the code chapter and verse, but if I were to hazard a guess it would be that the totally enclosed space will both contain the fire longer and starve the fire oxygen. Adding a vent grille negates these protections.
I do not have code chapter and verse. When the fire inspector told me it was against code I just took his word for it. I listened to him not only for safety reasons but to please my insurance company god forbid a fire were to occur. BeGreen you are right about the enclosed space both containing the fire longer and starving it of oxygen. That is the exact answer I was given by my inspector when I asked the reason for that code.
 
Nice looking install.
Not sure I would do anything to remove heat from the chimney. I was always told a hot chimney works best. You are often asked whether a chimney is an outside or an inside chimney because inside chimneys typically draft better because they don't lose heat to the cold masonry.
 
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