Because "dead air" has an r value of 0.97 per inch, and this is in a mobile home I plan on sending down the road someday, and don't want the weight of 5 layers of Durock know in an entire corner. (It would be more than 5 sheets in a stack? It'd be a 6'x6' corner)
Converting heatilator to Englander 13-NCH (my first post)
- Thread starter Trey_G
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Doc C
Minister of Fire
That makes sense. Durock discontinued the regular durock so now all of what they sell is the next gen. It’s just not labeled next gen anymore.
The new durock if I recall is .39 r value. Add in your thin set and tile and you get to over 2 for r value. Now if you need a larger then 3x5 hearth then yes it would be more then 5 sheets.
Also I guess in theory it’s possible that there is some of the old durock left out there but by now it should be mostly all gone. So please verify you or anyone else reading this is getting the new stuff if you go that route because there is a big difference in R value between the old stuff and the next gen or new stuff.
With that said doc, I read that on here. As steel is an excellent conductor, it confuses me as to how that would work. I have access to plenty of 2"x2" square sign post for free. It's made out of 3/32 steel, as it's free, I'd like to use that.
Doc C
Minister of Fire
I would use the steel. It makes sense in your case. I looked at doing that as well but could not justify the cost of the steel, a new blade that would cut steel cleanly with angles and then renting a welder as I sold mine a few years back.
Doc C
Minister of Fire
And as far as conductor. The way I had envisioned it was to build a frame out of square tubing with it hole in the middle. The use a sheet of metal thick enough to hold the stove weight to span it that way the air gap is under the stove and there is no tubing.
I was going to make sure that the frame was outside the required hearth size so hopefully it did not get very hot.
I am not sure how much heat is transferred through steel but I am sure it’s a lot.
Maybe some other folks have more knowledge in building a hearth with stee and can shed some light on how to get around the steel conducting heat.
The hearth buildup with micore and durock would insulate below from the heat. Underneath those layers it doesn't matter if wood or steel are used.
Ok, but was going to use steel studs instead of micore, with 2 layers of durock on top. When I think about it, as far as a conductor, screws are steel also, maybe I'm over thinking it. At this point, I think I'll use 1 5/8" c channel at 12" on ctr, gaps filled with unfaced fiberglass, atop which I'll place 2" durockthen tile. That will give me R = 2 x .39 + 1.625 x .97 = 2.35, and will help me minimize weight and maximizing the 84" min vertical clearance. That sound about right?
Similar threads
