Couple questions re gaskets and downdraft burning...long winded

[dtabor]

I have a new Defiant NC with the 8" pipe coming out the back about 3-4 feet then straight up a one piece SS liner in a brick chimney, center of house, over 20'.....Im still learning the procedure but overall its working OK.

As far as the everburn question, once the bypass is closed, should ALL the brighter style primary flames go away? Im not talking full burn looking, just here and there on the end of a split or something.

Also, I get the rumble, but on days where Ive been home to watch it for a period of time, Ive seen it subside and then come back a couple minutes later??? But those dancing secondary flames are still in there, sometimes more like a flare up of secondary style flame?? Does this sound semi-normal? I need to learn what is correct and not so I know what Im seeing.

Now on the gaskets, first, how long should they last and is there something that would make them not last as long? Reason I ask is that a few times while watching, when the secondary flames would flare up, Id notice a squirt of smoke come from around the griddle, not a huge puff, just a wisp. Ive noticed that if I religiously keep the ashes clear of the shoe holes, this doesnt happen. I also found early on that the gasket around the griddle had come loose on the front near the handle. Is this a defect, poor work when they put it on or normal? Mind you Ive only had this/been burning this since October, brand new when installed by "pro's"

Last night when sitting watching it burn away before dampering down, I could see a tiny pinhole where I could see the bright orange of the flame in the box. To describe location, if you are facing the stove, the right hand door, it comes down the curve from the top and then juts over toward the hinge. The pinhole I could see was right where the curvature meets the angle to head toward the hinge. I looked at the other door and saw nothing there. I checked the gaskets and each door looks identical as does the rest of the stove in that area on each side. I cant see where the gasket would cover the little spot where this "pinhole" is even if I changed it as I can see where the gasket has the ridge where it meets the body of the stove. Any ideas on that?

D

 

[tradergordo]

As far as the everburn question, once the bypass is closed, should ALL the brighter style primary flames go away? Im not talking full burn looking, just here and there on the end of a split or something.

One of the things CFM noted was that a lot of everburn stove owners had trouble getting used to how little fire was visible compared to other stove designs. That said, you can get a pretty wide range. If the primary air is up, and you pre-chared the wood, you should see flames. With primary air completely off, you can sometimes see some flames, and other times you will see almost no flame at all, just an orange glow. Anywhere along the spectrum is OK as long as you are still getting good secondary combustion (which can be determined most easily simply by listening for it, flue temps are also a good indicator, and of course going out and looking at what's coming out the chimney is another way to know).

Also, I get the rumble, but on days where Ive been home to watch it for a period of time, Ive seen it subside and then come back a couple minutes later??? But those dancing secondary flames are still in there, sometimes more like a flare up of secondary style flame?? Does this sound semi-normal? I need to learn what is correct and not so I know what Im seeing.

You want a continuous low rumble, if it completely goes away, then it stalled (which isn't all that uncommon, lots of user complaints of this happening). It CAN "restart" on its own, or INTENSIFY on its own, just from shifting fuel or the production of fresh hot coals, build up of temperature to critical point, etc. Or you can help it along by making sure to clear ash away from the shoe, pile up fresh hot coals in front of the throat opening, get temps up before dampering, etc.

Now on the gaskets, first, how long should they last and is there something that would make them not last as long? Reason I ask is that a few times while watching, when the secondary flames would flare up, Id notice a squirt of smoke come from around the griddle, not a huge puff, just a wisp. Ive noticed that if I religiously keep the ashes clear of the shoe holes, this doesn't happen. I also found early on that the gasket around the griddle had come loose on the front near the handle. Is this a defect, poor work when they put it on or normal? Mind you Ive only had this/been burning this since October, brand new when installed by "pro's"

This definitely sounds like a problem to me, and something you should get fixed. The everburn models are entirely gasketed rather than cemented and according to CFM there are occasional issues with air leaks around panels where things weren't evenly tightened. This was more likely to be a concern with the early stoves before customer feedback led them to "tighten up" assembly line practices. These panels need to be snug but over tightening has cracked panels too. That said, there could be other causes, if there is dust or other junk on your griddle, at a certain high temperature this can quickly ignite in a tiny puff of smoke (this has even been known to set off smoke alarms for some people who never even saw any smoke). But considering you already found a loose gasket, I'm betting you need that taken care of, and really the dealer or CFM should do it, its kind of a big job. I have no idea what keeping ashes away from the shoe holes would have to do with this though??

Last night when sitting watching it burn away before dampering down, I could see a tiny pinhole where I could see the bright orange of the flame in the box. To describe location, if you are facing the stove, the right hand door, it comes down the curve from the top and then juts over toward the hinge. The pinhole I could see was right where the curvature meets the angle to head toward the hinge. I looked at the other door and saw nothing there. I checked the gaskets and each door looks identical as does the rest of the stove in that area on each side. I cant see where the gasket would cover the little spot where this "pinhole" is even if I changed it as I can see where the gasket has the ridge where it meets the body of the stove. Any ideas on that?

PICTURE please...

 

[dtabor]

Thanks for the info.

As far as the gasket. Im just talking the one where the top loading door/griddle comes down onto. That is something I can change myself correct?

I will get a picture of that pinhole when I get home and post.

D

 

[tradergordo]

Thanks for the info.

As far as the gasket. Im just talking the one where the top loading door/griddle comes down onto. That is something I can change myself correct?

I will get a picture of that pinhole when I get home and post.

D

Oh, I thought you were talking about an internal gasket. Yes, any gasket you can change without taking the stove apart shouldn't be a huge deal.