Current fireplace

My hope is to replace my current insert (metal?) that came with the house that I just purchased. Until I can afford the unit I have a few questions related what I currently have. I have attached a picture. I have had two chimney/fireplace companies in and have taken the time to ask them questions. Problem is I get differing answers. The fireplace insert panels are cracked in one corner. I do not believe they are cracked below. I was told by the chimney sweep that I should only burn the manmade fire logs as they do not burn as hot. When I had another company in to get a quote for an insert replacement I was told the unit is ok as is and that I could burn regular firewood. Again, here is the photo.

On another note, the opening is small. The estimator took (reported to me) only four measurments (the actual height and width of the openning) and the height and width of the surrounding fireboard(?). Does this sound right.

That crack, if it is the only damage and the rest of the unit & flue are sound, should not cause any problems burning regular wood.

You are calling it an "insert". Is it truly an insert in a masonry fireplace? Or is it a built-in zero clearance fireplace?

Did the estimator use his dimensions to suggest something to fit inside? It almost sounds like you have a ZC fireplace and he was measuring for an insert.

Post some more pictures and details about the current setup so we can see what is there. Then we should be able to give some suggestions about replacing it.

A zero clearance (ZC) fireplace is usually a large metal box built into a wall and probably has firebrick panels surrounding the firebox. An insert is a steel or cast iron unit that slides into a masonry or other fireplace to improve efficiency. Very few ZC units are approved to have an insert in them and very few inserts will work in those ZC fireplaces.

KaptJaq

Do you have a fireplace "stove insert" Or are you asking about burning wood in those prefab fireplaces like in the pic? As far as i know i dont think your suppose to put a stove in a prefab place , if you can even get one that small. As for the cracks, they all crack after time, but those panels cant be much to take out and install new ones if your just burning wood in the fireplace and not a stove install. And never burn firelogs in a woodstove.

As far as burning with the cracks i would not advise doing it, without putting some stove cement or something on it at least, but thats not saying i have had many hot fires in those with the cracks. I heated a trailer for a winter and a piece with an open fireplace like that and burt the grate in 2 and cracked the back walls as they would glow red from my fires.

If what you have is a Zero Clearance (ZC) wood burning fireplace with
refractory brick panels, you can test the depth of the crack with a quarter.
Push the quarter into the crack. If it goes all the way thru the refractory,
then that refractory needs to be replaced. If the quarter DOESN'T go all
the way thru, you still have some burning life left in your fire place.

Yeah sounds about right but make sure you ask a professional if you have any doubts.

It is a metal firebox, not masonry. Attached is a wider picture of the fireplace. I have no information other than the crack. When I did get in there the back firepanel moved backwards about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch? Shouldn't it be attached to something?

The estimator suggested the regency ci1200 or the i1200. I am leaning towards the latter because it has a blower.

Sounds like your "estimator" has a good idea what is going on. The two things you have not mentioned yet are the flue and the hearth. I am sure that he took these into consideration:

According to the manual, the flue must be:

Installation must include a full height listed
chimney liner type HT requirements (2100
degree F.) per UL 1777 (U.S.) or ULC S635
(Canada). The liner must be securely attached
to the insert flue collar and the chimney top

The hearth must be:

Thermal floor protection is not required if the unit is
raised 3.5" minimum (measured from the bottom of
the stove). However, standard ember floor protection
is required. It will need to be non-combustible
material that covers 16" (406mm) in the US and
18" (450mm) in Canada to the front of the unit
and 8" (200mm)in Canada, 6" (152mm)in the US
to the sides.
If the unit is not raised, thermal floor protection
required is R value of 1.1 or greater.
If the hearth extension is flush with the floor it must
extend 19.5" in front of the body face.