cutting already split wood

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steeltowninwv

Minister of Fire
Nov 16, 2010
768
west virginia
i bought some wood and there was about 30 peices too long...whats the safest way to cut off the ends with a chainsaw?..
 
I use this to cut rounds to length.
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The supports are spaced as length guides. There was a thread about this a month or so ago. Some guys make/use something that is more like a box with one end open. The idea is to ba able to hold a bunch of rounds or splits securely so you can cut a bunch at a time.
 
Here is what I usually do, on a pallet I take a split that is the right length, 18" for me, as a guide and lay it down so it's braced against a stack of wood and the cutting end is lined right up on the edge of one of the openings on the bottom of the pallet. Then I take a split that is too long and line it up so the back ends of both splits are even. This alows me to cut off the amount that is longer than my guide split without worrying about my saw blade hitting the ground because it's going in between the slats of the pallet. To make sure the split doesn't move as I'm cutting it I usually step down on it with my left foot as far away from the saw as possible.

Pretty simple way to trim down those long splits and you can do it pretty quickly. Just have to always be aware of where the saw blade is and be careful not to reach down to quickly to change out the splits as the chain is still moving well after you let off the throttle. Take time between each split to make sure your feet are positioned correctly. Also, the pieces that you trim off can easily be shot behind you with a great deal of force if you don't move them and they come in contact with the chain as you are cutting. I wear a helmet with face shield and chaps when I do this but of course I wear these everytime I cut.
 
Hopefully someone will post a picture or two as there have been some good ones that people have built. Someone even used a milk crate if memory is right. But basically if you build a box an inch or two shorter than you want to cut the wood, put the wood in the box and just cut a whole bunch at one time. Or with a sawbuck cut one or two at a time. I did some once using my wife to get the wood and hold it while I did the cutting. She didn't mind and neither did I. It went quickly.
 
I use Delta 14" Band Saw with Riser Block & Lenox Diemaster 2 - .035 x 1/2 x 105" 3-4 varitooth blade.Same saw I can resaw 12" thick timbers & blocks,trim pieces or slice veneer if need be.Cut most all the smaller wood for smoker on it also.Faster & safer than miter saw,less chance of blade grabbing too.
 
Stump - milk crate - 2x4 - a few drywall screws to secure crate & 2x4 -- Ms 290 w/ 20" bar does the rest
 

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wood-fan-atic said:
Stump - milk crate - 2x4 - a few drywall screws to secure crate & 2x4 -- Ms 290 w/ 20" bar does the rest

Nice! Will have to remember that for next time.
 
thanks for the ideas guys
 
here is what i did just for quickie thing..i have to do em one at a time but i only have 30 or so......

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Hey, isn't that the cabin where Robert Byrd was born? Sure looks like it.
 
If I've only got a few to do I just pin them in the splitter, if you have one. Good solid hold & goes quick for just a few pieces. A C
 
Here is my chop box made out of the shipping frame for the rototiller. The ratchet straps make a big difference.
 

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I'm just a big dummy . . . I hold the split down with one foot and cut . . . being very, very, very careful to have the chain quite far away from where my foot is located . . . and steel toed boots . . . always.
 
Jake, so long as nobody starts calling you stubby, it is okay.
 
I was going to post pics of my set up which is similar SolarandWood's but as I was taking a picture of it I noticed two of the cross members were missing...and then the base was separated and the back was broke. The tree crews working for Electric company dropped a branch on and mangled it. I am pissed.
Anywho, it made very short work out of long branches. I put a stump in front of it and stack them in the jig and on the stump. Cut, pull out reload, repeat, sweet!
 
the setup i posted on here actually worked pretty good....i did move the brackets closer together...and added another bracket......
 
jeff_t said:
Miter saw works well if the splits aren't too big.

Similarly, but different, a cheapie HF table-saw. Works for me, because of small size of splits, but you can buzz 7" wide by flipping. For little stove, I buzz them to 8" long, but stack next year's at 16" long.
 
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