I have an Ariens 27-ton splitter with the cylinder rod stuck in the out position. I had it tuned up before storing and all fluids replaced, been starting it monthly and cycling the cylinder rod. It just got stuck in the out position, tried adding hydraulic fluid and ran the engine a while and it still didn't work. It's really hard to see the oil on the dipstick because it's so clear, even on paper towel, but I'm pretty sure it's between the lines right now. Is there a trick to get the fluid back in the system if it ran low?
Cylinder Rod Stuck in Out Position on Ariens 27 Ton Splitter
- Thread starter maltstan
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Bleeding air from a splitters hydro system is simple done by cycling the ram to full extension and retraction a couple of times. If your system is "full" of fluid and you cant cycle the ram, you probably have a different issue. Check the coupler between engine and pump to make sure both are spinning to start with. Report back and we can walk you through the trouble shooting.
Edit for clarification: that the shaft of the pump is spinning at motor speed.
Edit for clarification: that the shaft of the pump is spinning at motor speed.
salecker
Minister of Fire
Or even more rare the piston has come loose from the rod,i have had that happen a couple times over the years on equipment.
The time it happened on my grader circle turn cylinder was a groan. Took a good part of a day to finally find that issue.
The time it happened on my grader circle turn cylinder was a groan. Took a good part of a day to finally find that issue.
that could be the case on extention but this already out so even if it came off rod should still push back ,me thinks. Unless the piston is a small plate that can lodge ahead of the return port on the cylinder.
To The op - disconect the pump hose from the valve,point or fix it into bucket, then pull motor over without starting it . if fuid exits hose coupling and pump are good if not either the coupling has gone south or the pump is bad. visual inspection of coupling will tell you this . re-connect that hose. disconect hose from front of cylinder point in bucket , set valve for return, pull motor over with out starting it, if fluid exits hose, valve might be ok. That leaves either the cylinder or the the return line filter as the next culprits. reconnect that line. disconect hose from rear of cylinder at valve ( this might get messy) put in bucket set valve for return, pull motor over , if rod moves then cylinder, in theory, should be ok. This leaves the return to tank circut as the culprit. You likely will need a second set of hands to check this and it is going to get messy. reconnect previous hose, disconnect return line from control valve make sure you keep the hose well above the tank, set valve to return. this is where a second set of hands are needed, need to hold a small bucket up to valve and then pull motor over again should have fluid exiting valve. if not valve bad if it does then the problem is in the filter head assembly- a total plugged filter and the bypass valve in the assembly is not working. ( this a rare problem as far as the bypass valve in the filter assembly is concerned.)
If all this checks out then the pump is having trouble building pressure. only way to check that is to T in a gauge between the valve and the pump. I don't think I missed anything. good luck.
To The op - disconect the pump hose from the valve,point or fix it into bucket, then pull motor over without starting it . if fuid exits hose coupling and pump are good if not either the coupling has gone south or the pump is bad. visual inspection of coupling will tell you this . re-connect that hose. disconect hose from front of cylinder point in bucket , set valve for return, pull motor over with out starting it, if fluid exits hose, valve might be ok. That leaves either the cylinder or the the return line filter as the next culprits. reconnect that line. disconect hose from rear of cylinder at valve ( this might get messy) put in bucket set valve for return, pull motor over , if rod moves then cylinder, in theory, should be ok. This leaves the return to tank circut as the culprit. You likely will need a second set of hands to check this and it is going to get messy. reconnect previous hose, disconnect return line from control valve make sure you keep the hose well above the tank, set valve to return. this is where a second set of hands are needed, need to hold a small bucket up to valve and then pull motor over again should have fluid exiting valve. if not valve bad if it does then the problem is in the filter head assembly- a total plugged filter and the bypass valve in the assembly is not working. ( this a rare problem as far as the bypass valve in the filter assembly is concerned.)
If all this checks out then the pump is having trouble building pressure. only way to check that is to T in a gauge between the valve and the pump. I don't think I missed anything. good luck.
I'm still debating whether to add more hydraulic fluid. I'm such a newbie at this with how clear the fluid is it's hard to tell if it's even full, so I put the dipstick it on a paper towel this morning and it looks like it's between the lines.
There was an earlier mention of checking the coupler between the engine and the pump so I took a video.
Google Video https://photos.app.goo.gl/jjy3AP4F1L5z1JNC9
Another unusual thing is that there's no pressure between the hydraulic oil filter and the connection up by the handle.
There was an earlier mention of checking the coupler between the engine and the pump so I took a video.
Google Video https://photos.app.goo.gl/jjy3AP4F1L5z1JNC9
Another unusual thing is that there's no pressure between the hydraulic oil filter and the connection up by the handle.
salecker
Minister of Fire
If the piston comes off all it will do is extend
you can try to pull the rod right out,which it will do if the piston is disconnected.
you can try to pull the rod right out,which it will do if the piston is disconnected.
Looks like the coupling is bad to me.
When it is not running look at the coupling and see if it has moved.
The engine is turning but the pump is not in the video
When it is not running look at the coupling and see if it has moved.
The engine is turning but the pump is not in the video
Sawset
Minister of Fire
These three parts should mate together to form a flexible connection between the engine and pump. It looks like your plastic "spider" in the center is gone, and the two metal couplers have worn to the point of not connecting at all. I have a similar unit (county line) with the same problem, except that the couplers are still somewhat intact, but need replacing.
I drove this home from storage a short distance behind my truck, probably where something like that could have happened. Thank you for the feedback.
Beer Belly
Minister of Fire
I don't think towing the splitter would have any effect on the lovejoy coupler. The coupler is a wear item. Some wear out sooner than others.
Thank you everyone, I think you figured it out and I agree it may not have been the towing. I cycled it a couple weeks ago so I deduced that, but you can see it's just wear.
Google Photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/4DkKeCtEVyUrekeN8
Google Photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/4DkKeCtEVyUrekeN8
salecker
Minister of Fire
I made a new center section for mine out of a piece of conveyor belting.
100 miles one way to anyone that may have a part from me = 5hours of my life
Took me about 15 minutes to make one and get it back spitting wood.
But if your ends have been wore away a complete coupler is needed.
100 miles one way to anyone that may have a part from me = 5hours of my life
Took me about 15 minutes to make one and get it back spitting wood.
But if your ends have been wore away a complete coupler is needed.
