Did I kill my miter saw?

[TreePapa]

A year or two ago I picked up an old Black & Drecker 10" miter saw (plain-jane model, not compound or sliding) off Craigslist for $35 and spent $25 on new blades. It worked purty good, mostly used for minor DIY projects and (carefully) cutting small firewood. A few times when cutting firewood, a log would get stuck and I would need to use a mallet to knock it off the blade (after unplugging saw, of course). Well, a week or so ago I discovered that I couldn't adjust the angle. Yesterday I took the say apart (2 bolts remove the saw motor & blade from the base, 2 bolts remove the handle assembly, and about 8 or 10 screws remove the "turntable" from the rest of the base. I sprayed turntable w/ LDS lubricant and put the saw back together.

So now I can adjust the cut angle ... with a mallet, a few degrees at a time. In other words, not much improvement. It's basically a 90-degree chopsaw now. Fortunately, I also picked up a Makita 14" miter saw a couple months ago off C/L. I paid $150 for that one, but they're not even available new anymore and regularlly sell for up to $300 used. A 15" Hitachi saw costs over $600 new. The Makita had the rattiest power cord I've ever seen. I taped it up yesterday so I could use the saw, and I would say there is less than 12" of cord w/o electrical tape! I found a local tool service shop, and I'm gonna take the Makita in for servcie when I'm done w/ my current project (6' handicap ramp for the "in-law cottage", from PT 2x and plywood. I figger a new cord and general service could cost some $$, but since it's a high quality tool, it's worth it. The thing will prolly also need a new blade - I've been doing some searching and 14" blades are near, at, or above $100. When I get a new blade, I'll see about having the existing blade sharpened, given the cost.

My question, if there is one here, is "anything else I can do to free up the turntable on the Black & Drecker saw?"

Thanks,

Peace,
- Sequoia

 

[Gooserider]

Essentially what you've got to do is take it apart and find out what's binding it... I would look for screws that might be too long and are hitting adjacent parts, possibly missing spacer washers, the dreaded rust and corrosion, and so forth... Can't really say more than that from where we are at, not being able to see the unit. I would probably start taking it apart, and see if the adjustment frees up after taking each bit off, and the same when putting it back together.

I would also make a better fix on your new saw than just taping up an old cord - you never know when it might twist and short out inside. Again not seeing the unit I can't say just how to fix it, but what I've often done is use a power cord salvaged from a dead device, or a length of outdoor electrical cord (preferably with molded on plug, but will install my own if needed) and either replace the entire cord, or if it has molded on bits that I can't duplicate, cut the bad cord off as close to the unit as I can and make ONE good splice, that I know is done right....

Gooserider

 

[TreePapa]

Essentially what you've got to do is take it apart and find out what's binding it... I would look for screws that might be too long and are hitting adjacent parts, possibly missing spacer washers, the dreaded rust and corrosion, and so forth... Can't really say more than that from where we are at, not being able to see the unit. I would probably start taking it apart, and see if the adjustment frees up after taking each bit off, and the same when putting it back together.

I would also make a better fix on your new saw than just taping up an old cord - you never know when it might twist and short out inside. Again not seeing the unit I can't say just how to fix it, but what I've often done is use a power cord salvaged from a dead device, or a length of outdoor electrical cord (preferably with molded on plug, but will install my own if needed) and either replace the entire cord, or if it has molded on bits that I can't duplicate, cut the bad cord off as close to the unit as I can and make ONE good splice, that I know is done right....

Gooserider

I've already taken the B&D;saw as apart as it gets (at least, the base, which is where the problem is). All screws and washers seem to be original and in place. I've experiment with lesser and greater tension on the screws and the nuts holding the handle. All to now avail. I think my next step is to take it apart again and more closely inspect both the "turntable" and frame for nicks, burrs, or anything else that is causing it to bind. The last time it was apart, it didn't move freely even when I put the turntable in the frame w/o any screws, so something is causing it to bind. I might get some emery paper and try sanding down the edges to see if that helps.

As for the cord for the Makita, I'll look around for an older "double insulated" cord -- the kind without the "unequal" plugs. It's so nice not to have to "F" with the unequal plugs, I'd kinda hate to lose that. It will need to be at least the same guage as the existing cord - I can't tell you what that is, but it's thicker than the cord on the Black & Dreck.

Peace,
- Sequoia

 

[Gooserider]

Your call on the even plugs, but I would point out that the polarized plug on double insulated tools is intended as a safety feature... The idea is that by polarizing the plug, you have to plug the tool in with the neutral wire on a given prong, and the tool is designed so that if any of the insulation fails, the exterior of the tool will be on the Neutral side - if plugged in backwards, some failure modes could cause the exterior of the tool to become "live" with consequent risk of shock...

As to the guage, it SHOULD be printed on the old cord somewhere, though whether or not you can read it may be a seperate issue. OD of the cable is no real clue as the way a cord is constructed can change that. If you can't read the designation on the old cable, your best bet would be to try and measure the conductors in it - they are probably 16 guage, possibly 14.

Gooserider

 

[GVA]

Your call on the even plugs, but I would point out that the polarized plug on double insulated tools is intended as a safety feature... The idea is that by polarizing the plug, you have to plug the tool in with the neutral wire on a given prong, and the tool is designed so that if any of the insulation fails, the exterior of the tool will be on the Neutral side - if plugged in backwards, some failure modes could cause the exterior of the tool to become "live" with consequent risk of shock...

As to the guage, it SHOULD be printed on the old cord somewhere, though whether or not you can read it may be a seperate issue. OD of the cable is no real clue as the way a cord is constructed can change that. If you can't read the designation on the old cable, your best bet would be to try and measure the conductors in it - they are probably 16 guage, possibly 14.

Gooserider

well said

 

[johnn]

TreePapa,,Are you near salt water? I`ve never torn one down, but short of a wear ring, ther should be similiar or dissimiliar metals rubbing together and if there is a wear pattern or raised edges they should be noticeable by feel. perhaps the metals have opened up pours causing drag. Perhaps some wet sanding might help, or even a coat of old fashioned floor wax

 

[TreePapa]

TreePapa,,Are you near salt water? I`ve never torn one down, but short of a wear ring, ther should be similiar or dissimiliar metals rubbing together and if there is a wear pattern or raised edges they should be noticeable by feel. perhaps the metals have opened up pours causing drag. Perhaps some wet sanding might help, or even a coat of old fashioned floor wax

I think the saw has been in the San Fernando Valley (10 miles +/- and a "mountain" range from the sea and fairly low humidity) all its life. I store it in my garage, which is dry.

The metal of the frame and turntable are both aluminum. I don't think the problem stems from wear, 'cuz it came on suddenly. I think I must have distorted something when I was beating on the wood stuck to the blade. Maybe I knocked the frame out of alignment or bent it just enough to cause the binding, but not enough to be visible.

Anyway, if I have time I"ll take it apart (again) this weekend and see what I can find.

Peace,
- Sequoia

 

[johnn]

Had that thought in the back of my mind also,,just didn`t really want to mention it! Might take a BFH to fix it now

 

[TreePapa]

Well, I took it apart again and still couldn't get it to turn any more freely, so I "cut my lossess" and removed the blade (in case I get another 10" miter saw one day). I'm gonna take a pic or two and list it free on C/L to get it out of my garage. Maybe someone has an old B&D;saw that doesn't work, but the turntable still turns. They could take the powerhead from mine and "restore" a dead saw.

I still have the Makita 14" which works great and I picked up a Ryobi cordless (yes, cordless) 8.5" compound miter saw. A bit on the wimpy side, but its cordless and I already have other Roybi 18v tools, and thus batteries. And I build a booth at the Renaissance Faire (so. calif.) every year, w/o access to power, so the cordless will come in handy once a year, anyway.

I figger I'll hold off picking up a 10" saw until I've reorganized my garage, at least. It's getting more than a bit crowded. But if I organize things, get rid of old projects that I ain't gonna do, and pick up a few steel shelving units, I should be able to "carve out" a workshop in addition to the junk storage and laundry room.

Peace,
- Sequoia