Dielectric Unions??

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4hiswork

Member
Hearth Supporter
Apr 4, 2010
25
Western Kentucky
I was able to snag some free SS fittings from where I work. I had enough to make 2 header systems, but the question remains is it a good idea to join different types of metals or should I invest in Dielectric Unions?? Anyone out there mix brass with SS, copper?? :grrr:
 
Yes you can mix multiple metals in a closed loop system, but not in an open loop where fresh water and or O2 is admitted.

Some installers prefer to use a brass nipple or connection between copper and steel, but it is not necessary. Copper- male adapters have been screwed into steel cast iron, aluminum, and stainless steel boilers and radiators for many years without any issues.

Be more concerned with the water quality in multi metal systems. Aluminum is very sensitive to ph levels, stainless to excessive chlorides.

A good multi-metal hydronic conditioner is a wise investment. Clean and flush the system with a hydronic cleaner or TSP, then add the conditioner to a good quality fill water. Buy filtered, DI water if you home water source is excessively hard, has ph problems or high TDS. Hydronic conditioner chemicals scavenge O2, buffer the ph, lock up hardness and offer a film provider to coat the inside of the parts and pipes to help protect. No glycol in galvanized piping.

hr
 
How much is 3,600 gallons of filtered DI water?
 
For DI water, you can purchase it and haul it in 55 gallon barrels, for small fills. I bought DI water to blend glycols for solar and snowmelt systems. I paid about 12 cents a gallon if I took them my containers.

Or rent the filter and run your own well or city water through it. The filters look like a water softener tank without the salt back wash tank. In my area the equipment is available for rent through Culligan.

Many of the portable car wash companies use DI filters for spot free rinse also. Maybe they would come by and fill your system.

Don't confuse DI with RO (reverse osmosis) water. RO strips most everything from the water and it leaves a very aggressive water. It will pin hole copper tube quickly, which is why home RO units are all plastic including the tubing and dispensor faucet guts.

hr
 
Wow...thanks for the awesome reply. DI water will not be hard to come by as I work at a chemical plant with a large DI tank. They sell us most everything else and all I would need is about 55 gallons. Thanks again!
 
HR, my well water is pretty hard. If I rent a DI filter, as you suggest, to fill my new system, which includes 1000 gallons of storage, what water ph should I set the DI filter to produce? Do you set a desired degree of hardness as well or just remove all hardness with the DI filter? In a new system (Tarm Solo Innova, clean storage tank and black iron pipe, do you think it is still advisable to initially flush it out with a hydronic cleaner or TSP? If so, what would be a good hydronic cleaner and what is TSP? I imagine it might take a good deal of hydronic cleaner or TSP for that much water. What would the bad result if you used the softened water from a typical home water softener that uses salt?

Mike
 
I also have a 1000 storage tank. I used the company below to clean and treat my water. They also provide the chemicals to treat the Garn boilers.

http://www.woodboilersolutions.com/

gg
 
dogwood said:
HR, my well water is pretty hard. If I rent a DI filter, as you suggest, to fill my new system, which includes 1000 gallons of storage, what water ph should I set the DI filter to produce? Do you set a desired degree of hardness as well or just remove all hardness with the DI filter? In a new system (Tarm Solo Innova, clean storage tank and black iron pipe, do you think it is still advisable to initially flush it out with a hydronic cleaner or TSP? If so, what would be a good hydronic cleaner and what is TSP? I imagine it might take a good deal of hydronic cleaner or TSP for that much water. What would the bad result if you used the softened water from a typical home water softener that uses salt? Would the salt content end up corroding the system?

Mike
I hope using a water softener is ok. I'm curious for any input too. If the softener is working properly the salt should be flushed out during the regen cycle, shouldn't it? I suppose I could run it through the backwash cycle a second time to be sure.
 
tawilson1152 said:
dogwood said:
HR, my well water is pretty hard. If I rent a DI filter, as you suggest, to fill my new system, which includes 1000 gallons of storage, what water ph should I set the DI filter to produce? Do you set a desired degree of hardness as well or just remove all hardness with the DI filter? In a new system (Tarm Solo Innova, clean storage tank and black iron pipe, do you think it is still advisable to initially flush it out with a hydronic cleaner or TSP? If so, what would be a good hydronic cleaner and what is TSP? I imagine it might take a good deal of hydronic cleaner or TSP for that much water. What would the bad result if you used the softened water from a typical home water softener that uses salt? Would the salt content end up corroding the system?

Mike
I hope using a water softener is ok. I'm curious for any input too. If the softener is working properly the salt should be flushed out during the regen cycle, shouldn't it? I suppose I could run it through the backwash cycle a second time to be sure.

It has been posted here before and wood boiler solutions also told me not to use softened water.

Soft water is aggressive.

gg
 
goosegunner said:
tawilson1152 said:
dogwood said:
HR, my well water is pretty hard. If I rent a DI filter, as you suggest, to fill my new system, which includes 1000 gallons of storage, what water ph should I set the DI filter to produce? Do you set a desired degree of hardness as well or just remove all hardness with the DI filter? In a new system (Tarm Solo Innova, clean storage tank and black iron pipe, do you think it is still advisable to initially flush it out with a hydronic cleaner or TSP? If so, what would be a good hydronic cleaner and what is TSP? I imagine it might take a good deal of hydronic cleaner or TSP for that much water. What would the bad result if you used the softened water from a typical home water softener that uses salt? Would the salt content end up corroding the system?

Mike
I hope using a water softener is ok. I'm curious for any input too. If the softener is working properly the salt should be flushed out during the regen cycle, shouldn't it? I suppose I could run it through the backwash cycle a second time to be sure.

It has been posted here before and wood boiler solutions also told me not to use softened water.

Soft water is aggressive.

gg
I did a few searches here and on the internet and that muddied the waters. Then I did a search for "wood boiler solutions". Good thing I have good antivirus software.
 
The lesser of two evils.

Extremely hard water will coat all the HX surfaces and put a hamper on the heat exchange, for the life of the system. There have been studies done on hard water scaling and how it changes the heat exchange. A few thousands of an inch is enough to make a boiler perculate, howl, or pop and crackle. Very similar to an old water that is trying to heat the water through a layer of sediment.

A water softener is an ion exchange, it really should not make the water aggressive, plenty of homes have softeners on galvanized and copper piping. Adding hydronic conditioner will balance out the ph and add all the other good components to the fluid.

The fluid you install in your system should be in there for the life of the system, it's a good first step to start with quality, balanced fill fluid.

You wouldn't put dirty motor oil in a new car or truck engine...

hr
 
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