Does about a 1/2 a cord a week sound like too much to be burning??

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fishinpa

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Oct 7, 2008
183
SE PA
I installed a QF 4300 step-top prior to last winter. I definitely had the '1st year burner blues" not being prepared with fully seasoned wood.

Over last fall I got all my wood split for this year and burning is not quite the chore it used to be, but I'm wondering about the amount I am going through. Does this seem about normal, excessive,. light??

I can not think of what else you would need to know other than Quadra-Fire 4300 (ACC) and we're running it wide open full time when consuming this amount of wood.

Let me know if I missed providing some info.
 
We burn right around 1/3 cord every 10 days right now. A half cord a week sounds like a lot. Are we talking in face cords or real 4x4x8 cords?
 
You shouldn't be running it wide open like that. Lots of heat going up the chimney.

These EPA stoves actually put out more heat when you dial back the air. It slows the airflow through the stove and allows for the system to run hotter, since the air doesn't carry the heat out the stack.

I don't know about the quad for sure, but it my EPA non-cat stove, the secondary combustion system works best when the air is cut back. This is because it changes the way that the air supply travels through the stove.

-SF

Edit: what kind of stove temps are you seeing?
 
Yes, that seems like a lot. Can you provide a bit more detail about the size of the wood being burnt, and how the air control and start air control are being set at various stages of the fire? By running it wide open, do you mean with the air control wide open? If so, the stove is not being run correctly and most of the heat is heading up the flue instead of the house.
 
'She' usually has lots of coals, so I rarely use fire-starters or anything like that once its hot. Toss in some wood and give the primary a quick push, then pull, which slowly closes itself over about 20 minutes. (Hence the ACC designation)

Primary air closed, secondary wide open. If I am around the stove I'll close the secondary to about 1/2 way when its running hot and then open fully as the secondary burning activity slows down.

about .44 cord per week per the cord-wood calculator. For those that have not seen this: http://www.maine.gov/ag/firewood.html
Average weekly wood pile burnt: 8ft x 4ft x 17" average piece length

Did I miss anything?
 
fishinpa said:
Average weekly wood pile burnt: 8ft x 4ft x 17" average piece length

That's just over a 1/3 or a cord, I think most people use around that much every 7-10 days. Some of my wood is 18" some is 16" and everything in between, in order to keep my sanity I figure everything at 16" lengths.
 
That sound like a lot of wood to me, how many sq/ft are you trying to heat?
 
If I understand the stove correctly, there are two controls varying the primary air, the first is the start up air control on a timer. Then second is the actual main air control (Quad calls it a burn rate control I believe.) If I am understanding your burning procedure, it sounds like the stove is being run at the medium-high setting all the time. For reduced wood consumption, the burn rate control should be set lower, especially if you are going to work or not going to be around. Otherwise the stove is running with full primary air all the time. Try running the burn rate control at the middle marker (medium-low or even the lower marker) when you are not going to be around for awhile. I think you will see wood consumption drop off.

Of course this depends on the house size, area being heated and location of the stove. How warm is it usually in the stove room now?
 
Fishinpa,

Sounds like you have your terminology a bit skewed.

What you are calling the "primary" is actually the startup air control. You're right to use the mechanism(older quads just have this lever operated manually) to start up the fire and let it slowly close, but you then need to use the air control(probably a left-to right slider) to control the burn. THIS is the "primary". Once the wood is charred and fully burning, start moving it to the right. You will see that most of the flame is now at the top of the firebox, and is being fueled mostly by wood gas and secondary air coming in through the burn tubes. There is no means of adjusting the secondary air. The secondary air is in a constant fully open state.

For reference, on my Quad, once my wood is burning well with good flame, I always close the primary air all the way and let the secondary do its thing. As long as it maintains flame in the firebox, I don't open it back up until it's time to add more wood.

Do you use a stovetop thermometer when running your stove? I have a feeling if you've been running with the primary air wide open all the time, and you have decently dry wood, you are probably reaching some dangerous temps on that stovetop.
 
karri0n said:
Fishinpa,

Sounds like you have your terminology a bit skewed.

What you are calling the "primary" is actually the startup air control. You're right to use the mechanism(older quads just have this lever operated manually) to start up the fire and let it slowly close, but you then need to use the air control(probably a left-to right slider) to control the burn. THIS is the "primary". Once the wood is charred and fully burning, start moving it to the right. You will see that most of the flame is now at the top of the firebox, and is being fueled mostly by wood gas and secondary air coming in through the burn tubes. There is no means of adjusting the secondary air. The secondary air is in a constant fully open state.

For reference, on my Quad, once my wood is burning well with good flame, I always close the primary air all the way and let the secondary do its thing. As long as it maintains flame in the firebox, I don't open it back up until it's time to add more wood.

Do you use a stovetop thermometer when running your stove? I have a feeling if you've been running with the primary air wide open all the time, and you have decently dry wood, you are probably reaching some dangerous temps on that stovetop.

Yes I admit my terminology is a bit skewed as you say. I call them this because that (in my mind) is what they do. Let me reason this out, right or wrong: Primary for me is the startup air and the secondary is the burn rate control, which sets the air getting into the secondary burn tubes.

I am calling the startup air the primary and the burn rate the seconday. I have had my stove apart and the burn rate control actually controls the amount of air allowed into th seconday burn tubes on the top of the stove. At leats they look to be directly connected.

If I wind down the burnrate control after the wood burns down about 2/3 of he way, I have coals and no secondary buring whatsoever and things appear to eb going nowhere but making charcoal. It is at this point that I open that valve fully.

To answer someone elses question: when the stove is burning hot, I try not to let her get over 600 - 650. I heve a temp gauge on top of the box and another about 2 ft up on the stove pipe. the stove pipe is always 100 to 200+ degrees cooler than the stovetop, depending on the stage of the fire.

i can get into more detail this evening when i am in front of the stove.
 
17" pieces?

17/12=1.4 ft. 1.4 x 32 sq.ft.= 45 cu.ft. 45/128cu.ft (full cord) = .35 cord. For most folks, this is considered a "face cord", not a half cord. I don't know about the wood calculator, or why it gave you that number.

Yes, I burn that much in cold weather - 24/7 burning - but for all the money you spent on that expensive EPA stove, I'd expect about 20% less wood for the same amount of heat. Or so I'm told. If not, I won't be getting a new one next year.
 
It sounds like you may be suffering from poorly seasoned fuel, and are operating the stove in a fashion it is not designed to operate in, in order to keep decent temps.

Can you give us a bit more info on how you're operating the stove?

Do you load the firebox full of wood, or are you adding fuel as you go?

When you load, do you load the fuel in facing from left-to right or front to back? Generally If the wood is going left-to right across the firebox, this is known as east-west, and front to back is known as north-south.

I'm going to call the primary the primary, and the startup air the startup air for now. My reason for this is that people who do not own Quad stoves will usually crack the loading door open for their "start up air" for 5-10 minutes when first starting a fresh fire. On a Quad stove, this is provided via the startup air control, though the air enters at the back of the firebox instead of the front. I personally don't like the burn pattern that this causes, as I like to burn the wood from front to back, in the same way that the primary air does. It doesn't make sense for me to supply more aire to the back of the firebox when I'm trying to get a good burn going starting from the primary air, which blows in from the front.

I wasn't aware that the "burn rate control" actually has an effect on the secondary air supply on the 4300, but you can be assured that it definitely has more of an effect on the primary air supply than the secondary. I don't know of any EPA stoves that have user-operated secondary air controls independent of the primary air control; the reason for this being that the secondary air is introduced at a fixed rate to maintain clean burning and high firebox temps. I have, however, heard of a setup like you reference, with the primary air control having an affect on both the primary air and the secondary air.

You mentioned turning the primary down 2/3 of the way into the burn cycle. With good wood, you should usually be able to start turning the air down about 15-30 minutes after starting the fire. The load should be fully charred and burning well enough that you don't lose the flame when turning the air down by half or more. You should then be able to go a few more minutes before turning it down to nearly closed, or even fully closed. Are you having trouble getting full flame in the firebox in this short time frame, or keeping temps at 500+ without opening the primary air fully?

If you are getting blackened glass when closing down the primary sooner, or having trouble keeping good temps after turning the primary air down, then it's probably an issue of the wood, and doin what you can to maintain higher temps is the right course of action so as to prevent a dangerous situation involving heavy creosote accumulation. However, if You simply haven't turned the primary down sooner, try that and see your results. If you are unable to maintain good flame or the wood is not burning fully once you turn the air down after establishing a decent fire, your next step is to head to Your local grocery store or home improvement store and pick up three bundles of kiln-dried firewood. Start a fire with either an established coal bed or a fire starter purchased from the same place, and see if it establishes a sustainable burn sooner, and if you are now able to turn down the primary air without the fire going out.

A bit more info that will be helpful to us:

How tall is your chimney?

Do you have a masonry chimney, or a steel chimney that goes up a chase?

Is the chimney on the outside of the house or inside?

If it's a masonry chimney, is it fully lined to the top with a suitable steel chimney liner?

You mentioned the house being particularly tight. If you do not have an outdoor air kit on the stove, there is a chance the stove simply isn't getting enough air. Try opening a window a few inches in the stove room, and see if it seems to be drawing better.
 
First of all, thanks to everyone getting involved here! I relly need the help, love tha fact taht I am not burning oil and want to get better at it, making the wife more comfortable in the process.

NOTE: Last year I went from an average of about 350 - 400 gallons of oil per year to about 60 gallons, estimating.

karriOn: I especially want to thank you and ask you give me a day or 2 or 3 to completely answer every question in responce to your well thought out inquiries. I basically work 11 to 12 hrs a day with travel and just want to close the computer when I get home. I am off Thursday through Tuesday of next week and want to respond within that time, if not sooner.

I started the responce, but to not want to put up a partial responce, which would be rude.
 
Air controls on Quad ACC:

Top right side lever. Moves up and down. This is the primary air supply for the stove. The "burn rate" control. This lets in through the air wash in the front, and may effect the secondary tubes also, but I think they are always getting some more air from elsewhere.

Lower right slide. This goes towards and away. This is a dual function lever. You can push it all the way back to engage the start-up air, which comes in the doghouse in the center front of the firebox. It should then immediately be pulled back towards you into the "rear air" zone someplace (see sticker on side panel). The rear air is to help get things burning in the back if you find its not burning evenly. I would suggest initially trying with this closed or almost closed.

Once engaged the start-up air will close by itself over 20-40 mins.

You should in theory be able to leave your burn rate alone when reloading, and just engage the start-up air. This will give air to get the wood charred, then it will choke down to your burn rate setting and cruise along nice.
 
That is a massive amount of wood consumption. At that rate, you'd burn 10 cords from November through March. Wow. What are you trying to heat?
 
try reloading on the coal bae (1-2" thick) when shut down, and leave it shut down after reloading... If everything is Kosher witht he sysytem, and the wood is OK then it should keep on chugging on low fine....
 
cycloxer said:
That is a massive amount of wood consumption. At that rate, you'd burn 10 cords from November through March. Wow. What are you trying to heat?

My Quad 4300 is located in my walk-in basement: very handy for wheelbarrows of wood, but not so handy for heating our living space above. I have to run it close to full out, I burn 10 cords...from November to March (and a cord for October + April), using maple and beech I have seasoned for 1.5 years. I can't imagine that stove burning that much wood in a living room or den....
 
I've burned upwards of 12 cord in a season (Oct-May) in the living room. Although it was certainly not 12 cord of seasoned beech. It really depends on the layout and location of the house. A large open floor plan with a lot glass on a windy ridge in upstate NY can consume that much without overheating the living space, especially if you only use wood. However, from fishinpa's oil consumption, it doesn't sound like the heatload is the issue.
 
fishinpa how much you burn is all relative to the weather and type of splits ...you burn whatever it takes to keep the family warm and that's that. It's still way less expensive than oil or gas. The only thing I know for sure is that we're burning way less wood with the newer EPA stove.

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Here's some dead standing punky junk I harvested last week. I ended up with twice that amount that heated the house for 2 days. That's an incredible amount of wood to use compared to you same time period, but so what?

It got me out of the house to pursue an outdoor activity, helped clean of the wood lot, saved probably $40 in propane...cause that what it would take to keep the wife happy for 2 days if we didn't burn wood. Plus I extended our real good wood supply another couple of days.

Not much in itself but when the multiples of doing it over time kick in it becomes significant. It's good to see that you understand the importance of seasoned wood.
 
jtp10181 said:
Air controls on Quad ACC:

Top right side lever. Moves up and down. This is the primary air supply for the stove. The "burn rate" control. This lets in through the air wash in the front, and may effect the secondary tubes also, but I think they are always getting some more air from elsewhere.

Lower right slide. This goes towards and away. This is a dual function lever. You can push it all the way back to engage the start-up air, which comes in the doghouse in the center front of the firebox. It should then immediately be pulled back towards you into the "rear air" zone someplace (see sticker on side panel). The rear air is to help get things burning in the back if you find its not burning evenly. I would suggest initially trying with this closed or almost closed.

Once engaged the start-up air will close by itself over 20-40 mins.

You should in theory be able to leave your burn rate alone when reloading, and just engage the start-up air. This will give air to get the wood charred, then it will choke down to your burn rate setting and cruise along nice.


Oops!

I said the primary moves left to right, whereas it looks like it may actually be up to down. Should have RTFM.
 
So far I've only gone through just over a cord this season but in really cold weather I can burn through a half cord in a week. The reason I go through that much then is that I have to give it so much more air to burn down the coals which takes it out of the sweet spot and lets more heat go up the chimney. If/when I can keep the air down below 1/2 and close the zipper, I get really good BTU/cord out of the stove. When natural gas prices are low and it drops to like -40, I'll let the furnace come on for a few minutes to keep the wife happy while the coals burn down rather than open up the air too much and heat the neighborhood. Last Winter gas was expensive so I ended up burning through 2 more cords than I would have otherwise.
 
cmcramer said:
cycloxer said:
That is a massive amount of wood consumption. At that rate, you'd burn 10 cords from November through March. Wow. What are you trying to heat?

My Quad 4300 is located in my walk-in basement: very handy for wheelbarrows of wood, but not so handy for heating our living space above. I have to run it close to full out, I burn 10 cords...from November to March (and a cord for October + April), using maple and beech I have seasoned for 1.5 years. I can't imagine that stove burning that much wood in a living room or den....


Holy Cow!


I want to see this thing.


I used to burn in a hugely inefficient wood burning furnace that was located in the basement. It could eat three wheelbarrows a day during the coldest months (last two weeks of Dec. - first two weeks of Feb.) - good beech, hickory and black locust. It seemed all I ever did was cut, split and stack. Bought a ton as well.

The unit was about 50 years old and leaky as hell. I used to prop a big log against the draft door (about 4" x 12") at night to slow the thing down. No gaskets anywhere. It had a piece of cast iron inside it that was bigger than some wood stoves built today that ran through the top of the mammoth firebox. The design called for getting that chunk of iron hot enough to start pumping hot air into an enormous air plenum that ran out into a network of ducts leading to various spots in the huge old farm house (even draftier than the stove) and cold air returns led back to the basement. The ducts were covered in asbestos that was peeling so bad I was afraid to go near them, and I wouldn't allow my kids to go down there because I was worried about the loose asbestos. The whole setup looked like a deranged Medusa head with snakes in full molt.


Still, even though this thing could consume massive amounts of wood when it needed to, the most I ever burned in a full season was about 10 cords.


My mother used to run an Episcopal conference center in Cooperstown, NY. The main "house" was the 39 room, four story Ryerson mansion (old man Ryerson went down on the Titantic), and it was heated by three wood furnaces nearly identical to mine, but in much better condition. They told me they went through 75 cords of wood a year, but when I did a quick count of the wood on hand, I realized that they meant face cords. I estimated pretty near 25 cords were packed into the enormous basement. They ran these things constantly, with the caretaker doing midnight fills of all three. 24/7 for six months, and they burned less than 10 cords each.



I wonder how hot a 57,000 BTU stove with an 80% efficiency rating would make a modern home burning that much wood? 10 cords of seasoned beech will produce 240,000,000 BTUs of heat energy. 57,000 BTUs x 24 hours x 30 days/month x 5 months = 205,000,000 BTUs. 10 cords of beech burned at 80% efficiency = 192,000,000 BTUs. That implies several possibilities:


- If you buy your wood, you may be getting screwed

- You may not have an insulated basement

- The QF efficiency numbers may be off

- The QF 4300 would have to running constantly at peak, 24/7 without a rest, for 5 months a year.

- You need to get a bigger stove... that one will be burnt out in short order


No disrespect intended, but that is more wood than I thought was possible to shove through just about any modern stove. My stove is rated at 50,000 BTUs. I estimate I will burn 5 1/2 cords this year based on consumption so far. I burn 24/7 from Nov. through the middle of April most years. Backup is electric resistance, and at 15 cents/KWH I can't afford to use it except in the coldest times of year (to bump up a degree or two). My old stove would have used about 4 1/2 cords and the place would have been 3-4 degrees colder that we are enjoying now.



The 12 cords of wood through the BK King are even more amazing since that stove is only rated at 47,000 BTU. From the BK site (sections in bold type by me):



The Facts on Btu's

There are only two rating methods that mean something to you, the consumer:


1. The first is the Btu output that is achieved during EPA testing. This testing is quite complicated and costly milled woods are burned. This is a standard for all manufacturer testing and is not intended to provide consumers with a model for how a stove will burn in their home.

2. The second method is what Blaze King refers to as the "Real World" method.
These Btu's are achieved during in house testing using the same thing a consumer burns, split, dry cordwood. In our tests, we use fir. The "Real World" Btu's listed are what the average consumer can expect to achieve, with slight variations depending upon geographical location, type of wood, elevation and amount of fuel added. Higher Btu's are possible. If you were to stand in front of your stove and frequently add fuel, burn the unit on high and have optimal conditions, the PE1006 could produce as high as 87,850 Btu's and the KE1107 could exceed 90,000 Btu's!

However, maximum Btu's would only be achievable at a certain "peak" during the burn.

Blaze King does not wish to mislead you, so we give you all the facts.


So, yes.... these stoves will put out mega amounts of heat, but only for short periods of time. Each addition of wood will drop stove temps a bit for at least a little while, (unless you are standing there feeding small pieces every few minutes like a pellet stove), and overnight burns will not be maintained at near peak at all.

Then there are the shoulders of the wood heating season to consider. Yes, I can feed my stove 1/2 a cord of wood in a week during a -20ºF cold snap, but I can't imagine even walking into the basement if I did that during most of Nov. or Mar... or any of Oct. or April.
 
Yep, I do buy my wood, but no, I'm not getting screwed too bad: I stack it and measure it - same wood guy for years and years.

And yes, my basement is not insulated....concrete soaks up a lot of those BTU's you were calculating!

But yes....I sure do burn 10 face cords per year.

I hope I am not gonna burn out my new stove. I keep my Quadra 4300 at a stack temp of 250-400, depending on the burn cycle. When I asked Dealer about safe operating temps, he said to keep stack temp (outer temp on a single wall stovepipe) below 500. So that's what I do.

Basement reaches 80 degrees.....living space above gets to 72 or so.
 
cmcramer said:
But yes....I sure do burn 10 face cords per year.


Which is approx 3-4 actual cords - which is just about right for a normal home.
 
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