Door gasket?

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

It's time for a new door gasket. Options are Rutland or Imperial (grey or white). It's 5/8".

I'm gonna use rtv silicone to stick it.

Any opinions on the brands?

BTW, the factory replacement is $35, the others mentioned come it at about $7. They try to snooker you by spec'ing 8', the after-market options are 7', but it only measures about 5'.

 

[xman23]

There are a few different option to the rope gasket material. Maybe someone more knowledgeable can explain them. I use the Rutland graphite rope, with the automotive high temp RTV. Just lay it in the grove without stretching it out.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

If the local options aren't suitable b/c they are not "high density", any thoughts on specific online options would be welcomed.

 

[begreen]

Yes, density and gasket construction are important. I tried a couple options for the T6, one medium density (Rutland graphite) and one high density (Meeco gold). Both worked poorly, leaking air and making the fire harder to control. Then I put in the expensive OEM gasket and bingo, it worked perfectly. No more issues. Considering this was the first gasket in 9 yrs I don't begrudge the higher cost. I compared cross sections of each gasket and there was a notable difference. The OEM PE gasket was like a rope within a rope with just the right density, but much better air blocking.

For RTV, any decent variety seems to work. I used Permatex red, but I think the Rutland black would probably be fine too.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Yes, density and gasket construction are important. I tried a couple options for the T6, one medium density (Rutland graphite) and one high density (Meeco gold). Both worked poorly, leaking air and making the fire harder to control. Then I put in the expensive OEM gasket and bingo, it worked perfectly. No more issues. Considering this was the first gasket in 9 yrs I don't begrudge the higher cost. I compared cross sections of each gasket and there was a notable difference. The OEM PE gasket was like a rope within a rope with just the right density, but much better air blocking.

For RTV, any decent variety seems to work. I used Permatex red, but I think the Rutland black would probably be fine too.

I seem to recall your experience, and I think it's what made me pause. I'm willing to try the local cheap stuff (hey, it's $6) before resorting to the other option at $35. If I had your stove, and with your experience of 9 years with the original gasket, I'd not even try the cheapie options. I'll report back how I do on the SBI stove.

Btw, I think I'm starting year 4 (first fire of Fall 2018 last night, Oct. 14), and the original gasket wasn't doing great last season.

 

[VirginiaIron]

Yes, density and gasket construction are important. I tried a couple options for the T6, one medium density (Rutland graphite) and one high density (Meeco gold). Both worked poorly, leaking air and making the fire harder to control. Then I put in the expensive OEM gasket and bingo, it worked perfectly. No more issues. Considering this was the first gasket in 9 yrs I don't begrudge the higher cost. I compared cross sections of each gasket and there was a notable difference. The OEM PE gasket was like a rope within a rope with just the right density, but much better air blocking.

For RTV, any decent variety seems to work. I used Permatex red, but I think the Rutland black would probably be fine too.

Could it possibly be "third time's a charm"? Lol
In all seriousness, I never gave density a thought. I finned gasket was gasket when it came to these stoves- BUT, I am a fel-pro man, so I know gaskets do matter. Thanks for the wisdom.

 

[begreen]

Could it possibly be "third time's a charm"? Lol
In all seriousness, I never gave density a thought. I finned gasket was gasket when it came to these stoves- BUT, I am a fel-pro man, so I know gaskets do matter. Thanks for the wisdom.

LOL, there are definite construction differences that you can feel and see.

 

[yooper08]

I'll report back how I do on the SBI stove.

Please do, would be interested. At least for me, it seems my gasket wears out pretty quickly and that's been with two OEMs.

 

[AaronMColeman]

I've got a Blaze King that supposedly requires a High Density Gasket. I put in that Rutledge Graphite (because I'm dumb and didn't know). Terrible Idea. Go with the right one first time. The cheap $6 one will cost you $6 and be a waste of time...unless it's the right gasket to begin with.

 

[BKVP]

As manufacturers we always seek repeatable door seals. When spending what we spend to test and certify our wood products, repeatability is mandatory.

BeGreen's observation of rope inside a rope is spot on. Great density can equal great lifetime of service.

Then of course EPA law requires units are built exactly as tested. No exceptions.

Car guys can best relate to OEM water pumps versus aftermarket. Having built many motors, few water pumps perform like the OEM. Then there are billet/machined water pumps....$$$$.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

As manufacturers we always seek repeatable door seals. When spending what we spend to test and certify our wood products, repeatability is mandatory.

BeGreen's observation of rope inside a rope is spot on. Great density can equal great lifetime of service.

Then of course EPA law requires units are built exactly as tested. No exceptions.

Car guys can best relate to OEM water pumps versus aftermarket. Having built many motors, few water pumps perform like the OEM. Then there are billet/machined water pumps....$$$$.

Makes perfect sense.

I'll share a quick anecdote to relate the "real" issue:

I bought a big HD shop vac I needed, with the $50 gift card from the in-laws 5 years ago. Great deal.

The replacement filters cost 1/3 as much as the whole vac did. I understand the business strategy. That said, I have stretched the original filter life out far longer because of the gouge.

Enter eBay, Amazon, etc. There, replacements for the filter are half the price the store is charging.

HD must have been losing enough replacement filter business, that they now offer the identical aftermarket ones widely available at the online-only resellers. Better to make the thin margin, than no margin at all, I guess. So, I ordered those filters delivered to my closest store, and picked em up on my last trip.

The $36 oem SBI gasket is a gouge. Don't like it, and it's not endearing. I'm otherwise a big fan of their stove and the company. Just because they can, doesn't mean they should.

 

[begreen]

The $36 oem SBI gasket is a gouge. Don't like it, and it's not endearing. I'm otherwise a big fan of their stove and the company. Just because they can, doesn't mean they should.

FWIW that is the same price as a PE gasket for our stove. I wasn't happy paying that, but considering the original lasted 8 seasons I don't have much to complain about. And I spent half that amount learning this lesson.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

FWIW that is the same price as a PE gasket for our stove. I wasn't happy paying that, but considering the original lasted 8 seasons I don't have much to complain about. And I spent half that amount learning this lesson.

Understand, 8 years is good. Mine could have used replacement in year three, and I've been pinching it to stretch it's life.

My goal in the last post is to relate to any manufacturers who might be paying attention, that these things matter. Not enough, in isolation, to break my brand loyalty, but it is definitely in the "cons" column.

 

[handsplitter]

How do you know when the door gasket need replacing? Thank you

 

[VirginiaIron]

How do you know when the door gasket need replacing? Thank you

Your manufacturer and operating instructions will usually indicate how to check your gasket. Typically, visually for wear and or damage, possibly using light to check for gaps. I use a dollar bill to indicate how well the gasket mates with the stove and how easily the bill can be pulled from the clamping force of the gasket/stove mating surface. I think this is pretty acceptable standard.
I have noticed that new bills seem to slip more easily from the seam than used bills.

Make sure you check and follow your stoves' instructions on how to perform this task.

 

[AaronMColeman]

As manufacturers we always seek repeatable door seals. When spending what we spend to test and certify our wood products, repeatability is mandatory.

BeGreen's observation of rope inside a rope is spot on. Great density can equal great lifetime of service.

Then of course EPA law requires units are built exactly as tested. No exceptions.

Car guys can best relate to OEM water pumps versus aftermarket. Having built many motors, few water pumps perform like the OEM. Then there are billet/machined water pumps....$$$$.

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but this seems related...let me know if this is too much of a detour.

- I used the rutledge medium density (or whatever it is called) and it was better than the gasket I inherited from previous owner, but it wouldn't pass the dollar bill test and seemed to still burn too hot and inconsistent.

- I got this one that is supposedly for my princess insert. Passes dollar bill test on top and bottom, but not on hinge or handle side. Only way I can get it to pass the test on the handle side is to really tighten the door adjustment...and still won't pass on hinge side. Any suggestions? Fire burns better than before and is easier to control, but I still feel like a lot of air is getting in.

Honestly, this gasket doesn't seem much different when looking at it than the Rutland.

http://www.hechlers.com/product/78-blaze-king-wood-stove-door-gasket-6ft-0186/

- My other question related to this is, how tight is too tight for the door adjustment? The only way I can pass dollar bill test on handle side is to really crank it down so the handle is hard to close...still won't pass on hinge side.

 

[handsplitter]

Thank you very much. My manual did not come with any gasket checking instructions. Could you guys please explain how/with what difficulty etc. you would like the bill to be pulled from the door.

Don't worry about hijacking is thread.

 

[Highbeam]

Thank you very much. My manual did not come with any gasket checking instructions. Could you guys please explain how/with what difficulty etc. you would like the bill to be pulled from the door.

Don't worry about hijacking is thread.

I’ve read everything from so tight that you’re afraid of ripping the bill, to, so long as it doesn’t fall out. So I don’t know. Knife edge doors force the dollar bill to bend around the knife edge groove so would offer more resistance than a flat door seal.

 

[VirginiaIron]

↑
Thank you very much. My manual did not come with any gasket checking instructions. Could you guys please explain how/with what difficulty etc. you would like the bill to be pulled from the door.

Don't worry about hijacking is thread.
I’ve read everything from so tight that you’re afraid of ripping the bill, to, so long as it doesn’t fall out. So I don’t know. Knife edge doors force the dollar bill to bend around the knife edge groove so would offer more resistance than a flat door seal.

I’ve read everything from so tight that you’re afraid of ripping the bill, to, so long as it doesn’t fall out. So I don’t know. Knife edge doors force the dollar bill to bend around the knife edge groove so would offer more resistance than a flat door seal.

Your stove make and model is needed due to all the possible variations. Post that info here and we might be able to scour the internet and come up with the correct information for you.

 

[madison]

There are a few different option to the rope gasket material. Maybe someone more knowledgeable can explain them. I use the Rutland graphite rope, with the automotive high temp RTV. Just lay it in the grove without stretching it out.

I will add my experience regarding adhesives, As Xman reponded - RTV red - use sparingly and make sure you have rags and a drop cloth down for a mess if you use it too heavily.

Read the Rutland packaging closely, there are multiple "flavors" with different characteristics and heat ratings. Black was OK, clear was not. There maybe more than one "Black" or else I had an old tube years ago.

RTV has performed better than all of them.

Spend for OEM gasket if you can get it, if not, you may end up messing around with your hinges and door latch. Not worth the hassle and potential damage with bending and prying metal.