door tightness...is this normal?

[BucksCoBernie]

I just put a new gasket on my Regency I3100 a few weeks ago. My old gasket was shot and had a gap that let air in via the bottom left corner (latch side). I noticed that the gap is still there with the new gasket, just not as wide. I did the dollar test and the door is snug on the upper left to center, looser on the upper right and lower right but still gas a little resistance while pulling the bill. the bottom center to bottom left allow the bill to be pulled out without much resistance at all. I tried removing a few washers to get the latch closer to the stove which only really tightened the portions that were already tight to begin with. Im afraid if i adjust the latch any more the door wont lock and or will be a major pain to move the latch.

Anyone else deal with something similar?

 

[begreen]

That seems unusual for a gasket to go in a year. Put a straight edge on the door and on the stove to assert that the stove face and door are flat and no warping has occurred. If there is any warping, this might be a warranty issue.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

yes, i get calls like this every day!

gaskets have a lot of play in them
http://woodheatstoves.com/how-to-replace-a-door-gasket-on-a-wood-stove-p-12076.html

 

[Battenkiller]

Awesome video, Dave! Thanks for that, it looks like I've been doing it a bit wrong all these years. Nice to be set straight, and nice to put a friendly face to a user name here. ;-)

 

[stoveguy13]

Take the gasket out and start over make sure the track is cleaned out all the way and no disrespect to dave but i would never use furnace cement to put my gaskets in place it does not work well from my expericens rutland make a gasket adhesive that works really well the paste kind not the liquid! also make sure you got the right size gasket! there are diffrent densitys in the same size so that can make a diffrence as well

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

Awesome video, Dave! Thanks for that, it looks like I've been doing it a bit wrong all these years. Nice to be set straight, and nice to put a friendly face to a user name here. ;-)

thanks, i'm working on more to answer all these FAQ's i get...

 

[DAKSY]

Well done, Dave. Nice & orderly steps. Our techs are taught virtually the same way, with some minor differences...
I'll add some of our methods to yours...
For cleaning the old cement out of the trough, I took an old beat up slotted screwdriver & rounded the end on my bench grinder. This allows me to have more surface in contact when chiseling, without digging into the metal.
We apply the cement ALMOST the same way, but we squeeze a smaller bead into the bottom of the gasket trough first & then spread it out to coat or prime the ENTIRE surface with a thin coat of the cement. Then we squeeze a 1/8 - 1/4" bead into the trough. We DO caution our DIYers not to stretch the gasket, tho, if we've given them the size specified by the stove manufacturer as we want to make sure they get the correct seal...
We also start between the hinge posts.
One other thing I'll mention, is that for the plated doors, we've found that RTV silicone tends to adhere to the surface better than the furnace cement...