Draft Inducer

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GENECOP

Minister of Fire
Jan 31, 2014
734
Ny
As has been discussed every Appliance and install is really site specific. With our Greenwood 100 the first year running cieling hung hydronic, wet wood, and a number of other issues the furnace was running anything but efficient. At that time I added a draft inducer hoping to improve conditions, it did, a bit. This year hooked up to radiant, new chimney cap, it's a different ball game. I have not been using the Draft inducer at all. I have however been experimenting with it...For the people that don't know the Greenwood Furnace has a heavy Ceramic enclosure that really holds the heat well, auto damper in the back closes and opens in accordance with demand, it's a simple system that for me is working well. The burn cycle is typically after warmed up like this..water temp OUT go down to 135...alarm goes off singles me to add wood...
load up, water OUT temp comes up to 160, damper closes, and for 4-5 Hrs the water OUT throttles back and forth between 155-160. After fuel supply begins to burn off, at 135 Alarm goes off again and the cycle begins. If I have the Draft inducer on, wired into the damper so if damper is open, inducer is on, I get a lot more opening and closing of damper, more short cycles.....So what I have been doing is turning on the inducer only when I load at 135,, this does two things, cuts down on the smoke escape out the front door while I load, and gets the 135 up quickly to the 155-160 range, after temp is reached, usually 5-10 minutes, I turn the inducer off and let it do it's thing....the stack temp on the greenwood is usually not that hot, gasses exit at 300-350, it's a cool stack, this week I will shut down a few hrs for a quick inspection and cleaning, curious to see the flue interior....Happy Burning, last Snow(I hope) on the way .....
 
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