Early creosote - how dangerous?

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Maybe you are getting hit now by the EAB? If so, see if your guy can get you White Ash. It's the highest BTU of the Ashes, by far. About as good as Red Oak. When all the Ash are dead and gone, soft Maple, Black Cherry, etc. might be about the best you can do. Silver and Red will dry pretty well in about 6 months. No long burns to be had with that stuff, though.
It would be nice if you could find a place to stack and dry wood that was close to your house, then you could get hard Maple, Oak, Black Locust, Hickory and other high-output woods dry. With the Castine, you need the longest-burning woods you can get.
 
I appreciate your wanting to help, but at this point, I think I have the information I was looking for.
Ok I was just trying to make sure your setup was safe. If you are confident your mason did everything right that is good enough I suppose.
 
Elm used to be native to MA too, but I don't know if there's any left.

That was always my grandmother's favorite firewood (because splitting firewood was how she got kids out of her hair when we annoyed her, and she knew we wouldn't be back in a hurry when she had elm to be split ;). )
 
I appreciate your wanting to help, but at this point, I think I have the information I was looking for.

Take my advise and take bholler's advise. There's been more than a few times others (including me) who wished they had.
 
To answer your original question . . . yes any amount of creosote can present a fire hazard . . . to a point. Obviously, the more creosote that is a potential fuel source = a potentially hotter and larger fire once it ignites. Perhaps the greater concern (as mentioned) is the type of creosote.

Some potential solutions . . .

Mix drier, seasoned wood with the green wood.
Use pallets (often free) mixed with the wood.
Leave the air open a little more open than a little less shut.
Frequently inspect the chimney . . . and invest in a brush or sooteater so you can clean it on a regular basis.
Think ahead to next year if at all possible.
 
you might want to look for some of the eco brick type material. It got me through my first two years and does not have the negatives of burning green wood. They can be a little expensive but they store easily and as long as you keep them dry you should be in good shape with them. My first year (2013) with a woodstove I used a powder that you throw into the fire to dry out the type 3 creosote. the powder is made by Rutland. It made cleaning out the pipe easier.

I toss in that Rutland stuff once a week during peak fire time . Seems to work . Not sure if I really need to since all I get out of an end of season cleaning is about 1 coffee can of fluffy soot . But doesn't hurt to be proactive.
 
Some potential solutions . . .

Mix drier, seasoned wood with the green wood.
Yup. Doing that. But I only have half a cord of ultra-dry along with my 2 cords of not-terribly-dry, so I have to ration the dry stuff. I *do* have some seasoned pine in the the back of the stash somewhere for emergencies if the seasoned oak runs out.

Leave the air open a little more open than a little less shut.

Currently, when I fill the stove on top of the coals, I put two splits of unseasoned in the back, one seasoned in the front and an unseasoned on top of it. The seasoned catches easily and helps the unseasoned to burn. With this setup, once it all gets really going (maybe 20 minutes or so), I'm getting a very healthy fire. I turn the damper all the way off and then just a scosh back. Anything more open than that and the fire is going to get very hot. I'm trying to keep it down in the 550 neighborhood. Further open, and it quickly goes up over 700. If having the damper further open would be a good idea, would I be better off filling it only half-full?

Frequently inspect the chimney . . . and invest in a brush or sooteater so you can clean it on a regular basis.

Definitely. I haven't purchased it yet, but I'm going to get one fairly soon. The mason that built the chimney is coming over in the next few days to possibly add some height to it to hopefully resolve my draft issue. When he was building the chimney, he was talking about me cleaning the chimney myself, and I'd like to discuss this with him more.
 
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I toss in that Rutland stuff once a week during peak fire time . Seems to work . Not sure if I really need to since all I get out of an end of season cleaning is about 1 coffee can of fluffy soot . But doesn't hurt to be proactive.

That seems like a fairly painless task to solve a potential problem. FWIW, when I inspected the stove pipe, the stuff that was collecting on the inside was extremely dry. But perhaps what is up closer to the top of the chimney will be different. I'm going to be up there within a few days, and I'll see what the situation is at that point.
 
The mason that built the chimney is coming over in the next few days to possibly add some height to it to hopefully resolve my draft issue.
When he is there ask him about the potential issues I brought up. Just do it gently as to not offend him. But you should know what you have in your house because if this stuff is done wrong it can be extremely dangerous.
 
When he is there ask him about the potential issues I brought up. Just do it gently as to not offend him. But you should know what you have in your house because if this stuff is done wrong it can be extremely dangerous.

Are you referring to possible code violations and/or him not doing the job right? No, I'm absolutely never EVER going to do that. I understand that you don't trust him, but I do trust him, and there is simply no way that this could be done without insulting him. I've worked with a lot of contractors that have disappointed me with the work they've done, or overcharged, or given me bad advice. This guy is good, honest and reasonably priced. I will do absolutely nothing that could possibly jeopardize my relationship with him.
 
Are you referring to possible code violations and/or him not doing the job right? No, I'm absolutely never EVER going to do that. I understand that you don't trust him, but I do trust him, and there is simply no way that this could be done without insulting him. I've worked with a lot of contractors that have disappointed me with the work they've done, or overcharged, or given me bad advice. This guy is good, honest and reasonably priced. I will do absolutely nothing that could possibly jeopardize my relationship with him.
OK then but I will let you know that I have been in the business a long time and have seen allot of "good , honest, reasonably priced" contractors that did chimney installs totally wrong And the sad part is they usually think they are doing it right they just don't know better. And yes you can ask without offending him. One example would be that you are thinking of switching insurance and the new company wants paperwork on the products used in the chimney. But if you have no doubts that he did it all right that is fine. But my experience is that if someone is going to get offended by you asking about the work they did they have something to hide. Those of us that do everything to as high a standard as possible are all to happy to tell you all about what we did for you..
 
Are you referring to possible code violations and/or him not doing the job right? No, I'm absolutely never EVER going to do that. I understand that you don't trust him, but I do trust him, and there is simply no way that this could be done without insulting him. I've worked with a lot of contractors that have disappointed me with the work they've done, or overcharged, or given me bad advice. This guy is good, honest and reasonably priced. I will do absolutely nothing that could possibly jeopardize my relationship with him.

Remember Bernie Madoff! !!!
 
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Remember Bernie Mafoff?
That is not all that fair the vast majority of contractors are not trying to screw anyone over and they absolutely think they are doing things right. Anytime we see something wrong and the customer know who did it we call them and try to explain why what they did was wrong and how to do it properly. We usually get well that is how my dad/grandfather taught me and we have been doing it that way for years. Or well it has masonry around it so there is no way fire can get through
 
I completely agree - just suggesting to keep your eyes open and don't be afraid to ask questions.
 
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Bholler, first of all, again, thanks for your advice. I know it comes from the desire to help. I don't want my posts to sound combative or give the impression that your advice is not welcome. And I freely admit that I'm relatively ignorant about all of this and will certainly never know half of what you do.

All that said, here is the whole story of our experience with this guy.

My wife researches everything to death. Sometimes she drives me crazy, and I want to say, "Oh, for @&*# sake, just pick one!!" And when it was time to rebuild the chimney, it was no different. We had 7 companies/masons/contractors come over. Some were simply out of our price range. Some just rubbed us the wrong way, and some seemed perfectly fine. Then we checked references. We spoke with customers, contractors, firefighters, and inspectors. One thing that they ALL had in common was that Tim was the guy to get. His prices are good, his work is flawless and his work ethic is amazing. The only problems with him is that he isn't very personable and is virtually impossible to reach unless you're a current customer that he's working with.

Sue tried to reach him for months. She stopped leaving messages, but would call a couple times a week. Finally, one time she called (her name is Sue), and Tim answered the phone, "Hi Maggie." Apparently he was talking to his customer (Maggie), they got disconnected, and he thought it was her calling back. That was our foot in the door and we were able finally get him over to examine the job and give us a quote. Once he convinced us that this low price really included everything, we hired him.

Town inspectors came twice. Once after he'd done all the structural wood retrofitting on the house (there was a ton of rot), and had dug the hole for the footing, and again after the job was complete. Both inspectors not only approved the work, but were very impressed at the job he did, adding structural things that weren't absolutely necessary to pass inspection, but were added safety that was a good idea.

He did the work at the beginning of July. We took the weekend of the Fourth and went camping. I made a quick trip to the house on July 4th to water my tomatoes. He was out on the scaffolding working on the chimney.

"Tim, it's the Fourth of July!"
"So?"
"Don't you take any time off?"
"To do what?"

After it was done, I was talking to a good friend who is a local painting contractor. He asked who did my chimney. I told him, and he replied, "Tim? You got Tim to do it? How the hell did you manage that?? I've been trying to get him for over a year."

We recently had our wood stove installed. I called another mason who was highly recommended to do the installation. He's supposed to be good, but he was expensive ($500). He looked at the work Tim did and was very impressed. That's rare from a competitor.

Many people who know FAR more than I believe that Tim does it right, and I really don't know what I could *possibly* do to investigate this further.
 
If it were me and the liner was not insulated, at the very least I would want to know if the chimney has the required clearance from the outside of the masonry to any combustible surface.

Seems pretty basic - especially since the OP's first post related to creosote concerns.
 
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I really don't know what I could *possibly* do to investigate this further.
Post a picture of where it goes through the wall for starters. Then ask him for the documentation of the products used in the chimney for insurance reasons.
 
Post a picture of where it goes through the wall for starters.

ws01.jpg
 
Ok I remember your chimney before with those wing walls on the sides. It absolutely looks like he has proper clearances through the wall although no insulation so you have a huge heat sink there. But if I remember correctly in your last thread you said it was infact an insulated liner. And now you dont know. Also your mason built a chimney that does not meet the height requirements of most any modern stove. So honestly that brings his knowledge of chimney physics and construction requirements into question.
 
I've been using Rutland powder creosote remover for 30 years in a big Huntsman. 2or3 scoops every three days. Wire brush one time before heating season. I only get about a hand full of dry powder out of the clean out. This stuff is great.

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