EKO-40 QUESTION

[Bliz]

Hello all, I have an new EKO-40 still siting on a pallet in the cellar and hope to have it operating next week. I had a Biasi boiler that basically exploded and I am replacing it. My dilema is that I also have 4 cord of seasoned wood in the basement cut to 22". The Orlan book says the maximum wood length is 20" but when I measured the firebox it measures 23.5". My question is can I burn 22" wood or do I have to re-saw it all. Thanks for any info.

 

[taxidermist]

If it fits you can burn it. No need to re cut.


Rob

 

[pybyr]

In my Econoburn 150, which is similar in design/ function to the EKOs, I find that wood that is not snug full length in the firebox is less likely to "bridge" mid fire- though that seems to be less of a worry with wood that is split into finer/ smaller pieces. I'd say try what you've got and see, although you may want to re-split some pieces into smaller cross-sections to get each burn off to a good start.

 

[Bliz]

Thanks for the replies. I am guessing I will figure out the wood sizing as time goes on. I can see there is a learning curve to these units to obtain optimum performance. How long did most of you take to feel confident and competent operating your boilers?

 

[NNYorker]

First year-- load too much wood,open the door too much,babysit it too much. This year-second year-- much easier to judge how much and when to load. The baby Econo has grown so much in a year and I've even learned a thing or two. Ditto on Trevor's advice on "bridgeing". Also got much better with the "art" of loading the upper chamber to prevent bridgeing--which way to orient a particular split/s. Still lighting off from the top down when there is less than ideal coal bed--PopTart box full of bark lit on top of splits--rumblin' in no time

 

[Duetech]

In my EKO40 I try not to let the wood length exceed 19" (my 40 is an older model and the length dimmension is about 22") or it has a tendency to bridge or hang up in the gasification chamber. The occasional 20 and 21" pieces fit and burn but a box full of them can be an "situation" in a house when you have to open the door to rearrange the wood and have a fire going. You should have either a draft induction (vacuum/negative pressure) to pull the smoke out of the boiler into the chimney or you, the house and any family members may end up smeling like sausages when the smoke exits the upper chamber into your house. I use a skill saw when my "eye" in the cutting woods strays from the mark too much and I get too much that is too long. It's a bit noisy but is easy to sweep up and the little end pieces I get will either make a good "top of the coal bed" layer or good seasoned load. Geologically I guess you could call it non-pressure treated coal. It cuts quick and is worth the effort even if it is not ideal.

 

[Tony H]

My experience is like Cave2K wood that is too close to the max length tends to bridge . This happens as the wood burns and tilts slightly in the fire box.
I have found I can load a few long splits in the bottom with no problems but if I have some higher in the box they bridge often . I would try some of the longer splits be be aware this could be an issue.