Hi all, Looking for some help in getting rid of the creosote smell that is coming out of the upper door of an EKO Gasification boiler. So far I have adjusted the door hinge so the gasket is tight. There is no smoke just the oder. It gets worse when the blower kicks on and causes pressure in the upper chamber. The chimney has good draft, and the wood is in the ballpark for moisture. I have also tried changing the door gasket. no change. It is especially noticable at night when everyone is asleep and here are no doors opening and closing to let fresh air into the house. Boiler is in the basement. I really like the heat and the hot water from the boiler but the smell has got to go. Causing much friction in the house. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated
EKO Boiler creosote smell
- Thread starter Brooksie1964
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That's not good. Mine smells too - but it's in a shed, so I'm not that worried. I'm glad I did place it in a shed and not in the house - if I were an insurance company, I wouldn't be happy about inside installs. That's just my opinion though.
Nofossil
Moderator Emeritus
Mine had a tiny defect in the lip that made a microscopic leak, but it was very noticeable. I put a bit of high-temp silicone on the lip, put a piece of aluminum foil over it, and closed the door on it. Solved the problem, and the silicone is long gone at this point without ever having a leak again. I think the creosote took its place.
It would be worth checking whether a hinge adjustment might be in order. The smallest leak will be a problem, but it's definitely possible to have a leak-free system.
It would be worth checking whether a hinge adjustment might be in order. The smallest leak will be a problem, but it's definitely possible to have a leak-free system.
Thanks nofossil I would say that is the only disappintment with my EKO is the smell of creosote. It has not been as bad the more I use it. I just check my gasket on the upper door, and about 3" between the hinges is some shiney creosote. So I tried the high temp silicone and aluminum foil.
The hinge adjustment isn't the best design. To tighten the door on the gasket you have to turn the hinge post one full turn. That's way too much adjustment.
The hinge adjustment isn't the best design. To tighten the door on the gasket you have to turn the hinge post one full turn. That's way too much adjustment.
Creosote smell is also a problem with my EKO 40. I've been burning it for about two weeks now and it still produces the smell. I have my system installed in my workshop, so the smell is not a huge issue, but I'd prefer to eliminate it if possible. I think using a fiberglass rope seal is OK for natural draft systems that have a vacuum in the combustion chamber, but for forced draft systems like the EKO I'm surprised that manufacturers are not using something more advanced. I also think the construction of the door/boiler interface could have been better to reduce the amount of creosote that can contaminate the seal area.
In my workshop, it will be fairly easy for me to add a wall to isolate the boiler and storage tank from the rest of the workshop, and if I can't find a solution to the smell I may go this route. For your basement install you may also need to build a room around the boiler if nothing else works. The only other option is to install a fume hood over the boiler that exhausts a small amount of air out of the house. You would also need to have a outside air makeup vent somewhere close by so that you don't create a vacuum in the basement. Of course this will increase the amount of cold air that enters the house but I think a small amount of cold (and fresh) air is preferable to the smell.
In my workshop, it will be fairly easy for me to add a wall to isolate the boiler and storage tank from the rest of the workshop, and if I can't find a solution to the smell I may go this route. For your basement install you may also need to build a room around the boiler if nothing else works. The only other option is to install a fume hood over the boiler that exhausts a small amount of air out of the house. You would also need to have a outside air makeup vent somewhere close by so that you don't create a vacuum in the basement. Of course this will increase the amount of cold air that enters the house but I think a small amount of cold (and fresh) air is preferable to the smell.
Hi All,
Installed a Model AD-1 Auto Draft Inducer last night into the chimney pipe between the back of the Boier and the chimney. Thought the extra pulling of air might help the smell issue. Had great hopes but no luck. Right now I am trying this; I soaked the gasket in motor oil and now I am letting the excess (if there is any) drain off. I plan to install the gasket this afternoon. Will keep you posted. Willing to accept any and all suggestions. Thanks
Installed a Model AD-1 Auto Draft Inducer last night into the chimney pipe between the back of the Boier and the chimney. Thought the extra pulling of air might help the smell issue. Had great hopes but no luck. Right now I am trying this; I soaked the gasket in motor oil and now I am letting the excess (if there is any) drain off. I plan to install the gasket this afternoon. Will keep you posted. Willing to accept any and all suggestions. Thanks
Tony H
Minister of Fire
I was thinking the same as SWF with a small exaust hood. A buddy of mine with a small tool shop had the same problem with the oder of burning linings on one of his machines it was a terrible smell. We installed an old range hood over the thing and put a dimmer on the motor so he could run it any speed and wa la no more smell. Just paint it green and everyone will think it's part of the boiler. BTW mine has the same smell but because it's in an outside shed it only bothers the mice and chipmunks.
Hi All
So far so good. I got some 1 1/4 high density gasket rope, cut it an inch longer than the original gasket and soaked it in a 5 gallon pail with enough motor oil to cover it. Let it set for about a hour and a half. Squeezed out most of the oil and proceeded to install the gasket paying close attention to the corners. It was messy but really didn't take long. Before mounting the door, I let the wood free burn to get rid of the creosote in the chamber. I re set the door hinges to the original setting checked them with a level to make sure they were plum and hung the door.
When we first closed the door we had the extra oil squeeze out. Again a little messy but not bad. Started a new fire and closed the door and so far NO SMELL
!
If this works, I would suggest putting motor oil in a squeeze bottle and when you take off your door, lay it flat and soak the gasket. Gene Knight suggested using a paint brush to apply the oil.
We'll let it go and check it in the morning. Thanks to all for your assistance.
So far so good. I got some 1 1/4 high density gasket rope, cut it an inch longer than the original gasket and soaked it in a 5 gallon pail with enough motor oil to cover it. Let it set for about a hour and a half. Squeezed out most of the oil and proceeded to install the gasket paying close attention to the corners. It was messy but really didn't take long. Before mounting the door, I let the wood free burn to get rid of the creosote in the chamber. I re set the door hinges to the original setting checked them with a level to make sure they were plum and hung the door.
When we first closed the door we had the extra oil squeeze out. Again a little messy but not bad. Started a new fire and closed the door and so far NO SMELL
!If this works, I would suggest putting motor oil in a squeeze bottle and when you take off your door, lay it flat and soak the gasket. Gene Knight suggested using a paint brush to apply the oil.
We'll let it go and check it in the morning. Thanks to all for your assistance.
Medman
Feeling the Heat
The instructions that came with my EKO 25 said to use mineral oil on the gasket weekly. Since I haven't lit it yet, I had no idea that this was an issue. Sounds like the oiling is necessary.
Hi All
Weather has warmed up so not getting a true reading but the smell has diminished considerably. I was also told part of my problem is the pipe coming from my boiler to the chimney is not insulated. When there is no call for heat the pipe is cold to the touch so I am constantly"re inventing" to warm chimney. I have ordered some kaowool ceramic fiber blanket to wrap around my chimney pipe to insulate it. I ordered 1/2" x 24". When it arrives I will post my results. Hopefully one of these twickings will get me an oder free system.
Weather has warmed up so not getting a true reading but the smell has diminished considerably. I was also told part of my problem is the pipe coming from my boiler to the chimney is not insulated. When there is no call for heat the pipe is cold to the touch so I am constantly"re inventing" to warm chimney. I have ordered some kaowool ceramic fiber blanket to wrap around my chimney pipe to insulate it. I ordered 1/2" x 24". When it arrives I will post my results. Hopefully one of these twickings will get me an oder free system.
Brooksie
Where did you get the 1 1/4 high density rope gasket? Putting oil on the rope gasket will do what?
I have tried changing gaskets also. I still have faint smell.
Marcus
Where did you get the 1 1/4 high density rope gasket? Putting oil on the rope gasket will do what?
I have tried changing gaskets also. I still have faint smell.
Marcus
I did the motor oil thing. I removed the door and laid it flat, and just drizzled some oil all over the gasket. Using a screwdriver, I worked the gaskets edges and the gasket became soft. I then put the door back on and lit a fire. It was good for the first 2-3 hrs. as water storage came up to temp. The EKO went into idle mode 2-3 times befor the fire died. Now I have the burned oil smell. So maybe next time I will use a little WD-40 weekly. The EKO has only burned about 1/3 cord so far, I will try this method for a few more fires. The local stove store has the 1 1/4" rope for less then $4 per ft. They didn't have the graphite that I think would work better.
Pull the front door cover & see if the insulation is black where the nuts/bolts penetrate the front door. On all our installations we remove the plate & fill the spacers up with sealer & seal around the bolts on the front side of the door before fastening them. We also put sealer into the 4 screws that hold the plastic cover in place.
Bob
Bob
Just pulled the cover and just as you said, black on the insulation. Three of the four nuts, not tight at all. I'm going to fire again tomorrow, I'm hopping I have no smell.
Hi Marcus
I got the 1 1/4" high density boiler rope from www.Patriot-supply.com.
Item # 114HDBR . Only one I found that carried the size.
Just got an email from POLAND... going direct to horse's mouth. They said they use a clay-silicone gasket for the upper door. size 22 x 22 x 1460 for the model 25 & 40 and 22 x 22 x 1800 for the model 60 & 80. Haven't found that yet . They use the glass rope for the bottom (I assume fibeglass)
I got the 1 1/4" high density boiler rope from www.Patriot-supply.com.
Item # 114HDBR . Only one I found that carried the size.
Just got an email from POLAND... going direct to horse's mouth. They said they use a clay-silicone gasket for the upper door. size 22 x 22 x 1460 for the model 25 & 40 and 22 x 22 x 1800 for the model 60 & 80. Haven't found that yet . They use the glass rope for the bottom (I assume fibeglass)
Bob
You were right. I had two black sunbursts on my white insulation. Will seal my bolts today and let you know is it helps. Do you think I should just replace the isulation since it is already soiled?
Thanks
Brooksie
You were right. I had two black sunbursts on my white insulation. Will seal my bolts today and let you know is it helps. Do you think I should just replace the isulation since it is already soiled?
Thanks
Brooksie
Thanks Brooksie, I ordered the high density rope from Patriot Supply. The gasket on my door is only 3/4" rope.
Thanks again
Marcus
Thanks again
Marcus
Hi All
Still have the odor problem. Going to try something else today. Taking the door off, taking out the gasket. I going to clean out the trough. than I putting in a 1" high density gasket in the trough. I going to press it in so it it compacted. Than I'm going to fill in the difference with RTV high temp silicone 500* So that it adheres from one side of the trough to the other. I'll let it cure for the 24 hr period and re install it on the boiler. Stay tuned for future reports
Still have the odor problem. Going to try something else today. Taking the door off, taking out the gasket. I going to clean out the trough. than I putting in a 1" high density gasket in the trough. I going to press it in so it it compacted. Than I'm going to fill in the difference with RTV high temp silicone 500* So that it adheres from one side of the trough to the other. I'll let it cure for the 24 hr period and re install it on the boiler. Stay tuned for future reports
Brooksie1964 said:
I just did something similar on my unit last night, except I left the original fiberglass gasket installed and just put a thin coating of silicone on the surface of the gasket. I have not tested it yet. For you guys in the US, you might be able to find a retailer for this product: http://www.davlyn.com/products/product.php?id=6. They do not sell direct to consumers but you may be able to find out who retails the product.
Other than the bolts under the door cover that have already been mentioned, the other place I have sealed better is the gasket for the cover that the fan is mounted on. I noticed that when I get the occasional back-puff that smoke was puffing back around this gasket. So I ran a bead of silicone all the way around this gasket where it touches the heavier gauge steel of the boiler, and also put a thin film of silicone on the surface of the gasket.
Hi All
Just finished the new trial. After taking out the old gasket, I cut a piece of 1" high density fiberglass gasket about 52" long. Thank I stretched it out and far as I could to make it a tight gasket.
I put in in the trough and filled the empty corner with cut up peices of fiberglass. After it was pressed in place. I now had almost a 1/4" of spaceabove the gasket. I floated a tube of the RTV silicone over the gasket and took a putty knife to spread it from trough wall to trough wall. I'll let it cure for 24 hours and light off the boiler tomorrow night. It looks good. The gasket give you a cushion and the silicone on top gives you a seal. I also taped all the chimney joints from the boiler to the mason chimney with metal tape about 2 1/2" wide to stop any creosote leaks from the pipe and to close any air draft leaks. Will keep you posted.
Just finished the new trial. After taking out the old gasket, I cut a piece of 1" high density fiberglass gasket about 52" long. Thank I stretched it out and far as I could to make it a tight gasket.
I put in in the trough and filled the empty corner with cut up peices of fiberglass. After it was pressed in place. I now had almost a 1/4" of spaceabove the gasket. I floated a tube of the RTV silicone over the gasket and took a putty knife to spread it from trough wall to trough wall. I'll let it cure for 24 hours and light off the boiler tomorrow night. It looks good. The gasket give you a cushion and the silicone on top gives you a seal. I also taped all the chimney joints from the boiler to the mason chimney with metal tape about 2 1/2" wide to stop any creosote leaks from the pipe and to close any air draft leaks. Will keep you posted.
Hi All,
EUREKA!! Four days and no creosote smell. The basement smells fine. I think we found a solution to the creosote smell. IMPORTANT note: make sure you read the silicone tube carefully.
I used Rutland RTV High Temp 500*. I thought all high temp silicone were the same but they are not. Rutland is made for confind spaces. DowCorning's Heat Resistant RTV sealant says on the tube it will give off formaldahyde fumes..... not good in a home! Wife said no way Jose! and sent it back. Have done two doors so far and am doing a third today. A buddy of mine had a complete silicone gasket molded special for his door. His seems to be working fine also. His cost were considerably higher than a tube of RTV Silicone sealant.
For anyone that is installing an EKO it is also very important that you stay with the 8" chimney pipe from the boiler to your flue. You don't want any positive pressure in your chamber. The taping of the jonts with metal tape helps to prevent any leakage of creosote/moisture condensation from dripping from the chimney pipe. Again... Wife did not like that eiher.
Well Guys, we have a great boiler, with great heat and hot water supply, with a small correctable defect... the top door. Once you remedy the odor you can't beat the EKO boiler.
Hope this helped for you. Brooksie
EUREKA
!! Four days and no creosote smell. The basement smells fine. I think we found a solution to the creosote smell. IMPORTANT note: make sure you read the silicone tube carefully.I used Rutland RTV High Temp 500*. I thought all high temp silicone were the same but they are not. Rutland is made for confind spaces. DowCorning's Heat Resistant RTV sealant says on the tube it will give off formaldahyde fumes..... not good in a home
! Wife said no way Jose! and sent it back. Have done two doors so far and am doing a third today. A buddy of mine had a complete silicone gasket molded special for his door. His seems to be working fine also. His cost were considerably higher than a tube of RTV Silicone sealant. For anyone that is installing an EKO it is also very important that you stay with the 8" chimney pipe from the boiler to your flue. You don't want any positive pressure in your chamber. The taping of the jonts with metal tape helps to prevent any leakage of creosote/moisture condensation from dripping from the chimney pipe. Again... Wife did not like that eiher.
Well Guys, we have a great boiler, with great heat and hot water supply, with a small correctable defect... the top door. Once you remedy the odor you can't beat the EKO boiler.
Hope this helped for you. Brooksie
Thanks Brooksie I have got to try this or something similar. Wife demanding I take my boiler to my tree stand and stay there.
Tree Farmer,
Ask your wife to hang in there. It really works! Going strong and still no smell. It really is worth the wait. I know it seems like it will never be solved but the is alight at the end of the tunnel.
Just make sure you use a silicone that doesn't give of any formaldihyde fumes..... The Rutland RTZ 500* and 600* seem to work the best. They are made for confind areas so no fumes. DowCorning on the other hand isn't. Clean the gasket trough out real good. Wire brush all metal surfaces so thesilicone has something to stick to. Than cover the whole gasket and let it cure for the full 24 hours. Re hang the door and there yo go... no smell Good luck. If you have any questions let me know. Brooksie
Ask your wife to hang in there. It really works
! Going strong and still no smell. It really is worth the wait. I know it seems like it will never be solved but the is alight at the end of the tunnel.Just make sure you use a silicone that doesn't give of any formaldihyde fumes..... The Rutland RTZ 500* and 600* seem to work the best. They are made for confind areas so no fumes. DowCorning on the other hand isn't. Clean the gasket trough out real good. Wire brush all metal surfaces so thesilicone has something to stick to. Than cover the whole gasket and let it cure for the full 24 hours. Re hang the door and there yo go... no smell Good luck. If you have any questions let me know. Brooksie
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