England PDV 25 is not getting enough pellets to stay lit

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Im using Premium Wood Pellet Fuel from Tractor Supply Company, but its the same pellets that I was using before the breakdown.

I oredered the motor from ESW.

Cladmaster the stove has not improved I thought that it was improving but once it caught fire it just burned through everything way to fast. How do I increase the feed rate? As of right now I am letting go into shutdown mode and then I will try a master reset again and change it to a c setting this time. I could also check the motor RPMs What am I looking for with the motor RPMs How long it takes for it to revolve?
The gear motors for the augers come in different speeds. I have seen 1rpm to 4rpm and speeds in between. On mine, I let it rotate until the set screw was facing me, then timed how many revolutions it made in a minute. I think mine was 1.5. I can't tell you if ESW uses different speed motors in their stoves.
 
I think the motors turn at 1 / 1.2rpm, but the top motor turns with timed signals depending on the heat setting for the fuel feed (except for heat ranges 1 and 2). The heat ranges 1 and 2 are fine tuned with the lower buttons for fuel feed rate and burn air rate, the higher the number for the fuel feed, the more fuel the top auger drops as it's on longer.

The bottom auger turns at a set speed and is constant, it's the same for all the heat ranges.
 
Im running through shutdown mode at this moment so the auger test will have to wait. As will the reprogramming if it gets to late I will check back in tomorrow.
 
Just a thought. When you changed out the bad auger motor did you have to take out both motors .To make it easy to work on. If you did were the correct wires put back on each motor. The upper auger is suppose to run off and on depending on the fuel called for. The lower auger is suppose to turn all the time. The upper is a metering auger, that feed certain amounts of pellets to the lower auger, the feed auger. If wires are crossed that would mess up fuel flow.
 
The shutdown mode can be sped up, set the blower speed to 9 to force more cold air through the stove. It should take 15 - 25 mins for a complete shutdown.
 
I was sure to label the wires during reassembly and I ran a diagnostic on the motors so I am sure that they are wired correctly.

Im through shutdown and I have reprogrammed I am now waiting to see how it does this time around.
 
Cladmaster are you familiar with the vacuum switches? If so do you think they would affect anything if faulty?
Thanks.
 
I was sure to label the wires during reassembly and I ran a diagnostic on the motors so I am sure that they are wired correctly.

Im through shutdown and I have reprogrammed I am now waiting to see how it does this time around.

Is the bottom auger tuning all the time ?
 
Cladmaster are you familiar with the vacuum switches? If so do you think they would affect anything if faulty?
Thanks.

If these are at fault, the stove would not even get fuel, but there is a way to test this.

Bypass the switches by joining the wires from the switch, do them one at a time to see what the stove does. I'd start with the one that has the vacuum tube that goes to the back of the stove to the right of the igniter.

Make sure you unplug the mains lead before you do this, avoid any chance of getting 120v shock.
 
Its still doing the same thing even after reprogramming to C The bottom auger is constantly Its the top auger that has me wondering, and I think that I can hear a funny clicking noise once the stove gets brought up to temp and the room air blower comes on.

So your saying that I can remove the wires from the vacuum switch and join them tpgether? So instead of the vacuum switch completing the circuit it will be wired up direct?
 
Its still doing the same thing even after reprogramming to C The bottom auger is constantly Its the top auger that has me wondering, and I think that I can hear a funny clicking noise once the stove gets brought up to temp and the room air blower comes on.

So your saying that I can remove the wires from the vacuum switch and join them tpgether? So instead of the vacuum switch completing the circuit it will be wired up direct?

Wait ........ Shut the stove down and let it cool down. You will need to remove all the pellets out of the hopper before you do the next step. Sounds like the top auger is jamming, you will need to pull the top auger out the back of the stove and check that there is no blockage. Once you are sure that there is no blockage, replace the auger and motor, make sure you get it aligned right so that it does not bind in the shaft.

As for the switches, these are a safety feature of the stove, they shut the stove down buy stopping the fuel feed if the vacuum within the stove is lost.

Yes, these can be wired direct, but not recommended for safety reasons.
 
I have wired the upper auger direct and that seems to have made a difference I need to give it a little bit more time yet, but that might be it maybe I will just leave it wired direct and see what happens.

Im about to take a break from this.

Thanks for all your help
 
I have wired the upper auger direct and that seems to have made a difference I need to give it a little bit more time yet, but that might be it maybe I will just leave it wired direct and see what happens.

Im about to take a break from this.

Thanks for all your help
You should never leave your stove running with safeties disabled.
 
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As Harvey has said, do not leave the stove unattended with any safeties disabled, or any other changes that make the stove over feed with fuel.
 
The stove has been running awhile and it seems OK, thats with the top auger wired direct. Its not overfeeding its getting just enough pellets to keep lit as far as I can tell. I will watch it closely today and maybe turn it off at night and keep monitor on it.
 
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