Englander 25 pdvc customer service says it can’t run on a stat but the manual says otherwise whatâ

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alec

New Member
Dec 12, 2011
19
Toronto Canada
I was told today that my Englander 25 pdvc stove is not able to have a thermostat connected to it from a customer service rep at Englander. Does anyone know if this is true? it says it will do it in the manual.

Cheers

Alec
 
Not sure what date it was made as far as i can see it look like it say 9708 or a b on the mfg label. The serial number is 079071 if that helps at all.

Thanks

Alec
 
Add the following to this thread's title customer service says it can't run on a stat but the manual says otherwise what's up Mike?
 
Alec said:
Thanks but who is Mike?

Mike Holton the tech chap from England he is a member and regular contributer here. Nice guy, sorta daffy like the rest of us denizens here.
 
Hello

Is it a manual light stove?

Some older manual light stoves cannot use a thermostat.

Also it is only a Hi/Lo stove on a thermostat.
 
No it has an ignihter on it. What is a hi lo stove. I can set it manually from 1 to 9 for pellet feed and blower motor.

Thanks

Alec
 
As far as I know, if the stove is an auto-ignite model, that indicates that it was made in 2004 or later. But even the older manual-light PDVC's can run on a stat. It works on Hi-Lo after the stove has been manually lit.
 
Are ya sure the tech didn't tell ya that a stat wouldn't start and stop the stove?
 
Edit: I had it backwards.
Hi/Low = stove will jump up to[strike] 9-9 setting[/strike] your setting when the thermostat calls for heat, then will go back to [strike]the setting you have programmed on the control[/strike] a low setting ~1 when the stat no longer calls for heat.

Personally I never used it, but I've heard it's good if you connect a water jacket and circulator to heat your hot water tank.
 
superchips said:
Hi/Low = stove will jump up to 9-9 setting when the thermostat calls for heat, then will go back to the setting you have programmed on the control when the stat no longer calls for heat.

Personally I never used it, but I've heard it's good if you connect a water jacket and circulator to heat your hot water tank.

Nope try again.
 
superchips said:
Hi/Low = stove will jump up to 9-9 setting when the thermostat calls for heat, then will go back to the setting you have programmed on the control when the stat no longer calls for heat......
I agree w/ Smokey....try again.
It actually works just the opposite.

When calling for heat, the stove ramps up to whatever setting you have set on the control panel, and when stat stops calling for heat, it lowers down to lowest setting (I'm guessing it's around 1-1).
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
superchips said:
Hi/Low = stove will jump up to 9-9 setting when the thermostat calls for heat, then will go back to the setting you have programmed on the control when the stat no longer calls for heat.

Personally I never used it, but I've heard it's good if you connect a water jacket and circulator to heat your hot water tank.

Nope try again.
My neighbor heats his hot water tank off of a 25pdvc. He made his own exhaust pipe with a water jaket coiled around it with a thermostat from an electric hot water tank on the coils that runs the circulator when the coolant in the jacket gets hot enough. In the winter he uses a timer thermostat connected to the control board of the 25pdvc. It turns his stove up to high at 5 am and runs the stove on high. for 45 min That heats up his hot water tank in stead of running his boiler.
When the stat isn't calling for heat, the stove runs normally.

So I'm not the expert. Maybe you can clue me in?
 
superchips said:
SmokeyTheBear said:
superchips said:
Hi/Low = stove will jump up to 9-9 setting when the thermostat calls for heat, then will go back to the setting you have programmed on the control when the stat no longer calls for heat.

Personally I never used it, but I've heard it's good if you connect a water jacket and circulator to heat your hot water tank.

Nope try again.
My neighbor heats his hot water tank off of a 25pdvc. He made his own exhaust pipe with a water jaket coiled around it with a thermostat from an electric hot water tank on the coils that runs the circulator when the coolant in the jacket gets hot enough. In the winter he uses a timer thermostat connected to the control board of the 25pdvc. It turns his stove up to high at 5 am and runs the stove on high. for 45 min That heats up his hot water tank in stead of running his boiler.
When the stat isn't calling for heat, the stove runs normally.

So I'm not the expert. Maybe you can clue me in?

imacman already told you how the hi/low operates, as for a water jacket people do the strangest things, it is an untested uncertified user modification and while not likely to cause an issue definitely can.

We can start by looking at how the jacket is constructed and mated to the vent pipe, remove enough heat and you have creosote build up, but hey that's his problem.
 
It always amazes me how imagetive and ingenus people can be. I know I'm from another country, but, if you change an appliance from its intended use your insurance company might have something to say. After going through 7 months of hell with an insurance claim I wouldn't advise my worst enemy to wrap there stove with a water heater.
 
TLHinCanada said:
It always amazes me how imagetive and ingenus people can be. I know I'm from another country, but, if you change an appliance from its intended use your insurance company might have something to say. After going through 7 months of hell with an insurance claim I wouldn't advise my worst enemy to wrap there stove with a water heater.

Yeah and if I was not an old codger, I'd be tempted to do a lot of experimenting but not on a unit in the house.

Too much time, effort, and $$$ involved in it to watch it go poof because of my game playing.
 
TLHinCanada said:
It always amazes me how imagetive and ingenus people can be. I know I'm from another country, but, if you change an appliance from its intended use your insurance company might have something to say. After going through 7 months of hell with an insurance claim I wouldn't advise my worst enemy to wrap there stove with a water heater.

If I did I would tell'em to put it in the shed away from the house with the still.

Hmmm... A pellet still. I may be onto something here.
 
BrotherBart said:
TLHinCanada said:
It always amazes me how imagetive and ingenus people can be. I know I'm from another country, but, if you change an appliance from its intended use your insurance company might have something to say. After going through 7 months of hell with an insurance claim I wouldn't advise my worst enemy to wrap there stove with a water heater.

If I did I would tell'em to put it in the shed away from the house with the still.

Hmmm... A pellet still. I may be onto something here.

Ya know that 400 or so pounds of stuff you need to do a 48 gallon run is a dead give away ;-) .
 
ok, sorry it took me so long (cooking which includes cleaning up the table and dishes)

anyway , all ESW 25-PDVC units can be run on a thermostat (but there is one caviet) the stoves work in a "high/low" method, which means tthey do not shut off and come back on running on a stat (even the igniter versions. reason is the igniter would foul due to ash being pushed into the igniter port at restart. we tested it back in 04 and didnt like it due to reliability to relight issues. so, we left the old tried and true high/low method in place.


the high low is simply this;

when connected to a stat you wold manually turn on the stove at the control board (and if its an 03 or older , light manually as usual) then set the heat range and blower speed you wish the stove to run on when the stat is calling for heat (the book suggests 9-9 but i DO NOT set it whatever settings work best for your application)

anyway, the stove will come up to temp and run just as it does without the stat at the ranges you selected. once the "setpoint" (the temp you set the stat to) is reached , the stove will drop to its lowest feed rate (just like you walked over and turned the heat range to 1) the blower speed is not affected. the stove will continue to burn at this low 'idle" rate until the stat calls for heat again, at which time it will jump back up to your preselected heat range.


to the OP, i apologize for my tech's mis-statement and i'll circulate a note around tomorrow to make sure all are clear. likely he mistook the fact that it will not shut down and start up as it wont run on a stat, im not sure. but i'll correct the oversight in the morning
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
imacman already told you how the hi/low operates, as for a water jacket people do the strangest things, it is an untested uncertified user modification and while not likely to cause an issue definitely can.

We can start by looking at how the jacket is constructed and mated to the vent pipe, remove enough heat and you have creosote build up, but hey that's his problem.

He has been doing air conditioning piping for over 30 years. He did a nice job. Probably cost more than the stove. His chiminy is on the out side of his house. About 1.5 stories height with a clean out at the bottom. Not sure about build up, but I haven't seen any soot in the area.

Not sure if he had to do anything special on the thermostat connection, but I'll ask him.
 
So i should run the stove and watch the behavior of the feed speed and see what happens? Thanks to all for their comments it is much appreciated.

Thanks

Alec
 
Alec said:
So i should run the stove and watch the behavior of the feed speed and see what happens?.....

Yes. Make sure you remove any jumper wire that might still be inserted in the stat connectors on the board.

Let us know how it works out.
 
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