Englander 30NC, N/S vs E/W

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venator260

Feeling the Heat
Nov 16, 2015
369
Huntingdon County, Pa
So I'm still learning how to run my new Englander NC30. This is the first modern stove I have experience with; I ran an Alaska Kodiak in my youth, and last winter, a wood/coal combo Penn Royal. So anyway:

All that I see on the forums here says that N/S is the better way to load a stove. The Englander's firebox is 22 inches wide and deep, and my wood stash is cut for my old stove, so it's about 17 inches long. I can load either way. I've burned it about 6 days total, and, as I suspected, the wood I have could use more drying time.

Last night I loaded E/W for the first time from the same needs more seasoning wood pile (I get a sizzler every now and again). It seemed as though I did get more wood in. I went through the procedure that I've been using, and the stove and pipe temp just wouldn't settle down. Spots on the stove top were about 875 degrees according to my IR. I eventually did get it to come down a bit by shutting the primary completely, and closing the pipe damper about half.

I thought perhaps it was the cold (30 degrees). So I tried it again this afternoon, and saw that things were kicking up a little faster than they had been despite warmer (mid 50's) temps. So I didn't let the temps climb as far before shutting down. It's now about 2 hours later, and I still have secondaries like the videos of stoves the way they should look with the primary air control all of the way in. My stack temp about 18-24 in from the stove is hovering at about 400 degrees.

Any thoughts about what happened? The only thing that I can think of is that loading N/S only burned the two pieces on either side of the channel from the air inlet, whereas E/W loading spreads out the air more, and causes more of the load to burn up at once.

I can't think that two weeks inside at temps ranging from 70-90 and RH from 60-40 would dry my wood out any significant amount. The wood I'm using is ash standing in various states of tree death that was c/s/s last fall and put in an enclosed tractor shed.
 
I find loading E/W keeps the back splits from igniting very well, and it smolders for a lot longer. This may be due to not having really good draft. Therefor I always load N/S allowing air to reach the very back of the stove.
 
I find loading E/W keeps the back splits from igniting very well, and it smolders for a lot longer. This may be due to not having really good draft. Therefor I always load N/S allowing air to reach the very back of the stove.


I do the same when I load but I leave a little "tunnel" when I stack my wood load in the stove. I feel like it gets more air to the back of the stove and helps it burn more evenly.
 
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Back when I burned in a 30 I found that if I wanted to run it slower that E/W was the best choice. I found loading that stove it really depended on the situation.
 
When you load a stove completely full you can get a really hot situation.
As you have just made a situation where there is very small space up
in the top of the firebox around the burn tubes. Essentially creating
a small burnn chamber up there that can heat up quick and once the
secondaries start firing off the smoke burning like a gas it can heat up fast and hot.
Loading on a really large hot bed of coals will cause a stove to burn too hot especially
loading it so full. Make sure the coals are burnt down enough or just right. I know that
sounds hard to figure out but you will learn as you burn the stove more and more.
On an E/W load You can rake your coals forward and load the back splits on "no" hot coals.
This helps to control the situation as only half your wood load is sitting on that hot bed of coals so the back
half of your wood burns a little slower. You can use larger splits to control how fast the stove burns also.
When the temps are warmer your stove can get hotter once everything kicks in like the secondary flames up
in the top of the stove around the air tubes.
 
The 30NC is a heat machine. When the weather is mild ( 35° to 45°), I use small loads to control the heat output.

Here's how I get mine cruising (regardless of load size). Let it run wide open till the stove top reaches around 350°. Then I begin to shutting the airflow down in increments, until it's closed halfway. I let it cruise there. If the stove top gets above 800°, I close off the air a little more and turn the blower on.
 
The 30NC is a heat machine. When the weather is mild ( 35° to 45°), I use small loads to control the heat output.

Here's how I get mine cruising (regardless of load size). Let it run wide open till the stove top reaches around 350°. Then I begin to shutting the airflow down in increments, until it's closed halfway. I let it cruise there. If the stove top gets above 800°, I close off the air a little more and turn the blower on.


Since I made the initial post, I have loaded it up full twice. I started to shut down more quickly. When the stack thermometer gets close to the optimum burn zone I shut the door, when it gets there I start shutting the air with the aim to be completely shut down by the time the needle gets to the top of the optimum zone. I could take stove top temps, but it's easier just to watch the thermometer on the stack.

With the old stoves that I ran, I loaded it up, got it burning real hot, and then started to shut down to bring the temp down. Kinda like what cooks tell you to do with soups; get it boiling and then come back down to simmer. I was doing that with my new stove, which isn't the right approach. It worked ok with mild weather and less draft. The other night, the temps were down about freezing.

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Loading on a really large hot bed of coals will cause a stove to burn too hot especially
loading it so full. Make sure the coals are burnt down enough or just right. I know that
sounds hard to figure out but you will learn as you burn the stove more and more.

Ah the coaling. That's another thing that I haven't figured out.

After a full day of work, I come home to a stove that still has a whole bunch of coals in it, simmering at about 300 degrees. That sounds great, but I'm starting to wonder at what point I can remove the ash. The coals are all over; it's not like what I'm used to with older stoves in that the load seems to burn completely from front to back, and, after a full day, the coals are in the back, the ashes in the front. One just needs to remove the ash, rake the coals forward, and repeat. Smashing the coals around and opening up the draft for a few hours still leaves behind a coal bed throughout the stove.

This makes it great to do a quick reload and get the stove cranking off heat quickly, but I would imagine that ashes are going to start to build up.
 
I burn an NC30 too. I load NS when nights are colder, puts out more heat faster and reaches the back of the firebox if you leave a little tunnel in front of the doghouse. I load EW in milder temps and get longer burns by raking coals forward a putting a big boy split at the rear of the firebox. That's my experience with this stove, NS = more heat quickly and faster burn times, EW = a slower burn that lasts longer but can smolder easier if you don't watch it. Either way, it's a great stove. Mines been running for almost two weeks now.
 
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