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Exiting air temp

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by ltlhawk, Nov 24, 2012.

  1. ltlhawk

    ltlhawk Member

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    This probably a stupid question, but where is the adjustable auger cover? I did not see anything about that in the manual. My stove is a GC60. The owner manual is here (under literature tab) if you want to take a look. I will read through it again just in case I missed it. thanks

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  2. flynfrfun

    flynfrfun Minister of Fire

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    It's in the hopper and covers the auger. The hopper is where you put the pellets. If you have an insert you will have to remove the back cover to the hopper to get to it. I would do this before tearing into your exhaust pipe.
  3. ltlhawk

    ltlhawk Member

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    I have a stand alone and the back cover is easily accessible, so what the heck I will check it out. I will probably have a floor full of pellets by the time I'm done...
  4. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    That'll learn ya, them pellets hate being corralled, it will take weeks and you'll still be steping on them.
  5. heat seeker

    heat seeker Minister of Fire

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    Sorta like walking on marbles. You just might learn some new dance steps - a bonus!
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  6. ltlhawk

    ltlhawk Member

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    How much you wanna bet that my wife is the first to step on one without shoes on..
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  7. heat seeker

    heat seeker Minister of Fire

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    Where do you want the flowers sent?
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  8. ltlhawk

    ltlhawk Member

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    Update: I had the service guy come out and asked to do two things. One is to set the damper with the magnehelic gauge and the other was to see if he know why I was not getting the kind of air temp out that others stoves seem to have. He told me that he does not have a gauge and that the damper should be all the way closed. ok.. We then set the temp to the highest setting and he agreed that the temp seemed a bit low. He then asked how I measured the air temp and I pulled out my Fluke meter with temp prob. I held it 1 inch from the exit air pipe and duplicated the 150 degrees. He then held the temp probe there for awhile then he said the temp was up to 200. He had the probe down the pipe.. again, ok.. So I simply said that maybe it is fine and he should go.

    I then ordered the magnehelic gauge and it arrived today. I hooked it to the stove and no mater where I put the damper, the needle is pegged all the way to the right. The gauge has a range from 0 to .2, Does anyone know what this means?
  9. stovelark

    stovelark Minister of Fire

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    Hi Ltl think you are overthinking all of this. Does your flame pattern look ok? If not sure, go to youtube and look at an Enviro M55 burning video and compare. I think yours is working just fine though. The air damper- should be open about 1/2 inch for lower heat settings- most people run on 1, 2 or 3. The GCI60 is a M55 Enviro made for Regency by Enviro. The air temps- very subjective stuff. At our store, we set up a M55 FS and when we tested pellet heat output we ran the stove on heat setting 2 for an hour to let the stove get hot (remember you are heating 480 lbs of cast and steel casings... ) then with a thermal imager, shot the temp on the cast baffle at the top, temps varied from about 400-450 degrees for low end pellets (New England, big box store brands mainly) others (such as Hamer's hot ones and Cleanfire Pacific) topped out at about 600-640 degrees. What I'm saying is pellet quality varies a lot. It varies year to year, last year Hamers tested lower temp and ashy, looking closer, we found out they were not made in West Va, the batch we had. The ones from West Va were superior burning. Okanagans, clear choice, Vermont, were other good ones we tested (550-580 degrees). Taking air temp out of the tubes, don't know about that. Shooting the temp on the tubes I would say would be better. Try other brands of pellets, you'll see whats good and what isn't. Don't forget ash amounts too (Infernos about the ashiest we saw, but their heat was mid-temp about 500). Don't know if this helps, but I believe pellet quality is about 90 percent of it, if you give good fuel, most stoves will do the rest. Good luck

    Stovelark
    Enviro EF3 FS pellet
    Enviro Empress FPI AC
    Enviro Kodiak 1700 FS wood (burning downstairs as we speak.. or type)
  10. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    Where do you have the gage connected on the stove?
  11. ltlhawk

    ltlhawk Member

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    There is a screw on the side of the ash tray compartment that is removed and the measurement is taken there. I installed an 1/8 inch fitting so that I could attach the gauge.
  12. ltlhawk

    ltlhawk Member

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    Thanks for the information and I might just be overthinking. I have been using the stove for over a month now and it does heat the house quite well. I really wanted to set the draft plate correctly and that is why I bought the gauge, I just wish I got one that had a bit more range. I thought that by having a lower range that I could more precisely set the .15 WC the manual calls for. That didnt work. I will take a video of the flame at different temp settings and you guys can give me your opinion. Thanks again for all your support.
  13. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    And you brought the stove up to temperature and you are certain that the damper is in its slot and that anything that would prevent it from it full range of motion is out of the way.

    You have to move the damper in small amounts and let the stove settle for several minutes before checking the meter. Start with the 1/2" setting that stovelark suggests and go in one direction 1/8" take a reading then go it the other direction 1/8" from the original setting take a reading. Then you should be able to tell which direction to go for the next test. Remember the stove has to be up to temperature and you have to let the stove settle after each adjustment before taking a reading.

    What did you meter have in the way of instructions with it?
  14. ltlhawk

    ltlhawk Member

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    The stove was at temp most of the day before taking the reading. I did turn the stove off to install the fitting and then powered back up. I did only wait about 10 minutes after turning the stove back on. I will double check to make sure the damper is in the slot. It does seem a bit loose. I will start with the 1/2 inch setting stovelark suggested and then make the small adjustments as you mentioned.

    The instruction book anly talks about how to hook up the meter. It is a differencial meter and can do pos, neg or differencial depending on how you hook up the connections. I followed the instructions for neg measurement. I will post my results tomorrow.
  15. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    Was the stove at heat level 5 most of the day ??????
  16. ltlhawk

    ltlhawk Member

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    Stove was at level 2. I just tried the adjustment again and if I have the stove at setting 1 then I can see the needle dancing right around .19 with the damp fully close. As soon as I start opening the damper, even a small amount the needle goes beyond .2 (gauge limit) and when I close the damper it goes back to .19. If I change the setting to 2, then the needle pegs (same for settings 3,4 and 5)..
  17. ltlhawk

    ltlhawk Member

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    I just read the manual again about this setting and as you said, the stove needs to run at level 5 for 1 hour. "This unit is designed to operate within a negative pressure range
    of 0.15-0.17 inches of water column (37-42 Pa). (See
    image on right for location to measure negative pressure
    test port). This can be measured using a Magnahelic pressure
    gauge once the unit has been running on heat level 5 setting after
    one hour of burn time. This adjustment is necessary for varying
    venting configurations. The reading can be taken from the ⅛” hole located on the right side of the Ash Box."

    I will try that.. sorry, I should have read that first..ugh
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  18. tjnamtiw

    tjnamtiw Minister of Fire

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  19. Harvey Schneider

    Harvey Schneider Minister of Fire

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    Poor man's magnehelic. If you only need to use it once why buy one. Make your own. Go back to the basic definition of what the instrument does.

    Attached Files:

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  20. heat seeker

    heat seeker Minister of Fire

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    Will it work it the low end of the tube is above the water level? It looks to me like the water level is below the tube in this drawing. Could the zero level be higher on the card? I'd like to make one of these.
  21. Harvey Schneider

    Harvey Schneider Minister of Fire

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    My drawing could be better. The low end of the tube is below the water level and water is added until it reaches the 0 level. The card can also be adjusted to the water level for 0. The tube is tilted to make it easier to read against the scale. The scale is simply lines spaced at 0.1 inch increments. Dye can be added to the water to make it easier to read. This is what they gave us in college to measure vacuum in a lab course. It worked quite well.
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  22. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    Yep, it sure does.
  23. ltlhawk

    ltlhawk Member

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    THAT IS AWESOME... I wish I saw that before purchasing one..lol... thanks
  24. heat seeker

    heat seeker Minister of Fire

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    Great - thanks!
  25. Harvey Schneider

    Harvey Schneider Minister of Fire

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    I don't see why the zero can't be placed half way up the card. That way you can measure positive or negative pressures.

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