f600 jotul draft isues

[dc36ford]

I recently installed a Jotul F600 woodburning stove. I am having a difficult time getting the fire to take off. The draft valve is wide open and the side door is also left open. The only way to really get the fire to take off is to crack open the ashpan door which is a no no per Jotul tech support. I have taken the draft register off to ensure no blockage. The wood( Oak) has been cut in 8' logs for two years and chopped into firewood 2 months. My chimney is 18' verticle with 2- 45 elbows. I know of another that also recently installed the same stove and is having the same problem. He is the owner of a Hearth and Patio store and happens to be the one that sold me my stove. He had no answers so I offered to contact Jotul tech support. They instructed me to check the air valve, ensure the wood is dry (25% or less water content) and it should work. But it doesn't unless it has an additional draft source in addition to the air valve. Any suggestions?????

 

[begreen]

Oak split two months ago is probably the problem. Oak needs a couple years after being split to thoroughly dry out. Does the store have a moisture meter? If yes, take some splits to them and split them in half at the store. Then use the meter to measure the wood moisture on the freshly exposed face.

You could also try a couple bundles of store-bought wood to see how it performs by comparison.

 

[Valhalla]

Smoky,

Sorry that this is problem for you. I would test the draft by using some completely different wood. Just a few splits of something else, very seasoned splits for comparison. Wood is always the variable, for all wood burners.

I also have a non-scientific method. I would open the front door of the stove during the stubborn burn, sit on the floor/hearth and add one or two knots of newspaper above the fuel load to see how the draft improves. Watch and listen carefully. If it makes a dramatic improvement... it is the fuel. If it makes no change or minimal, it is the chimney flue draft.

Give it consideration for a try. Good luck. Put some stove gloves on, if you have them.

 

[gpcollen1]

Oak is not ready my friend. Split it smaller and smaller and then burn it. You will see when you split it some more that there is much water inside it.

 

[WOODBUTCHER]

Using store bought wood and or untreated lumber scraps will be a good start to check things out with your stove.
We have 4 Jotul's in the family a F600 (2) F500's and a F3 CB. When we installed these stoves it was easy to test the draft.
When your stove is cold, you can check to see if you have some sort of pull with your draft. Open the front draft control all the way (doors closed)......Reach behind the stove at the bottom (you'll feel an opening)
Start to cover the opening with your hand, you shuold be able to feel a slight draft/draw.
All our stoves are easily over fired if the draft control is left all the way open.
I had some 20" white oak that was 2 years old, I split it and it took the better part of 8-10 months and it burned half-way decent.

Hope this helps
WoodButcher

 

[Jags]

The wood( Oak) has been cut in 8' logs for two years and chopped into firewood 2 months.

Houston - we have a problem......

That oak ain't fit to burn yet. I have oak that has been long dead and split for 8 months that still reads 28-33% moisture.

 

[firefighterjake]

. . . I know of another that also recently installed the same stove and is having the same problem. He is the owner of a Hearth and Patio store and happens to be the one that sold me my stove. He had no answers so I offered to contact Jotul tech support. . . .

Agreed . . . problem is most likely the wood.

However, I was a bit surprised to read that the owner of a business that sells woodstoves doesn't realize wood needs to be well seasoned for these woodstoves . . . and oak in particular needs to be well seasoned.

Moreover, I'm a bit stumped as to why he had no answers . . . so you had to contact Jotul vs. him calling Jotul directly. A bit odd . . . call me crazy, but if I was running a business (not that I will ever run a a business . . . I'm not very good with numbers) I would a) know as much about my product and competitor's product as possible and b) if I had a problem with my own product or a customer came in with a problem that I didn't know the answer to I would take the iniative to find out the solution myself to find out the answer. Odd . . . just odd.

 

[colebrookman]

Be Green, Jags and all the other posters are right on. Its all in the wood. No dry, no burn, esp. oak. But almost any wood lying in log lenght, maybe not ash, needs to be split to start the drying process. Lesson learned but don't feel bad because most of us have been there, dun that. Be safe.
Ed

 

[Drumaz]

i have an F600 and I struggle as well. I know your pain smoky. i found it to be the wood as well. I can't get the stove over 450 degrees (stove top)... Granted at that point my house is getting toasty but when it's real cold, I'm going to want that extra 100-150 degrees. The wood was old but cheap and needed something for this year so I had to take it. I threw away about a half cord of punky and rotted wood. I have about 3 cord stacked. It seems to be getting better and occasionally I'll get the fire to take off but not with any regularity. I'm setting up for next year and hope to achieve hotter longer fires. My wife has deveolped a knack for cranking the stove though. I'm fine with that I bring the wood in and start and she takes over. Smoky - I feel for you/. We have these big bad a** stoves that don't get hot!! I've never tried the ashpan thing and I don't plan too. LEt's hope for drier wood! Half my pile got rained on today too!! Good times!