Fighting the man

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Reading the original post I take it that must meet 1 of them and not all of them as never said that in first sentence. I would think a 2000 stove has a tight fitting gasketed door. I am no lawyer though. Logically reading it says one of.
 
Here is my air intake setup. Opening a window would suffice in the basement; however, my setup only draws air in as needed with the "J" setup on the bottom. As far as having a drafty house goes, I too believed this at one point. I was having a terrific problem with liquid creosote and I contacted the manufacturer. The very first question they asked me what if I had fresh air coming in. I said yeah, I have lots of drafty windows and doors. They said to install a fresh air vent, and pretty much not to call back until I did. So, I did. And they were right. It pretty much got rid of all of my creosote.

I never understood the point of these unhooked OAK ducts. It's just a leak into your home. The "J" does nothing. When the stack effect of leakage in upper levels of the home puts negative pressure on your home the indirect OAK will always be flowing air right through the J-hook. Yes, like an open window, the disconnected OAK will provide a source of makeup air but it is so indirect that most of the benefits of OAK are lost.
 
From your statement per the manual "At least 14 square inches of outside air must be admitted to the room or directly to the unit through a 4” diameter pipe" This is how the manufacturer leaves themselves an out (call covering their a$$). I would think the only way to prove that the room has 14 square inches of outside air coming into that room would be a blower test. Probably cheaper to install an OAK considering time spent on this and money.

Newest NFPA 211 code which building officials follow... http://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standards/document-information-pages?mode=code&code=211 Your can sign up to have free access to the code in a read only format. Follow the Free access link on that page...

No point in updating fire and building codes unless you follow them ... otherwise we're doomed to just keep on repeating mistakes of the past that can result in loss of life and assets.
 
I never understood the point of these unhooked OAK ducts. It's just a leak into your home. The "J" does nothing. When the stack effect of leakage in upper levels of the home puts negative pressure on your home the indirect OAK will always be flowing air right through the J-hook. Yes, like an open window, the disconnected OAK will provide a source of makeup air but it is so indirect that most of the benefits of OAK are lost.

I didn't understand it either. The yukon's do not have a way to hook it up directly to the furnace. But I can assure you that it has made a 100% difference. Like a previous person stated, it's incredible how much air flows through the barometric damper. I'm telling you, when there is no fire going, no air comes through. When there is a fire, one could blow dry their hair with how much air comes through the OAK.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Highbeam
Status
Not open for further replies.