FIRE FIRE we have FIRE

[taxidermist]

I fired my eko 60 tonight, I thought I would never see this day. I only built a small fire to "season the box if you will" I only have seen it gassify 2 times so far. I might check to see where my primaries are at but my secondaries are at about 4 tuns out. I was getting worried about the water in the system not circulating so I wanted to wire a switch to power the pump when not in use to prevent freeze up. When I went to do this I first powerd up the eko and the pump started to run. Water was at 34 deg the pump ran till it hit 40 deg and shut off. So this unit has built in protection for freeze up. I still wired up the switch.


Rob

 

[88rxn/a]

congrats!
alot further than I....

 

[leaddog]

good to see you got it going. it should make a fire fighter proud. Just remember that you won't get good gasification untill the water temp gets to 160. starting with a cold boiler takes some time to warm up and the cold tends to cool the burn. Once you get things up to temp you will see and hear that roar.
I didn't know about it having freeze protection. I haven't read or heard anything about it. Interesting.
leaddog

 

[Tony H]

Fire good.
A few good burns and you should have gasification going quickly, I also noticed mine warmed slowly because I had the pump wired on for testing and the tempering valve all the way open when I changed it so the controller ran the pump and the valve was about 1/3 open it warmed up a little faster I was told it takes a couple good burns to dry out the unit for good gasification There is a thread called tweaking your EKO that has some other tips on getting the most out of your EKO.
I was just asking about wiring a switch like you have to allow me to bypass the controller and keep the pump on 24/7 when I have go out of town. Could you share the setup/parts you used ?

 

[jebatty]

No Eko, but Tarm, and I also wired a switch to run the circs. Very simple. First, I have a toggle, light-type, switch to shut off power to the boiler. Second, and wired in parallel with this switch, is a second same type of switch. To run the circs, shut off power to the boiler, turn on circ switch.

The result will be hot power on the load side of the Eko controller which powers the circ. I don't know if this is a problem for the Eko, so check it out. With the Tarm, the controller does not power the circ (unless specially set up to do this), so no potential problem here.

 

[taxidermist]

Fire good.
A few good burns and you should have gasification going quickly, I also noticed mine warmed slowly because I had the pump wired on for testing and the tempering valve all the way open when I changed it so the controller ran the pump and the valve was about 1/3 open it warmed up a little faster I was told it takes a couple good burns to dry out the unit for good gasification There is a thread called tweaking your EKO that has some other tips on getting the most out of your EKO.
I was just asking about wiring a switch like you have to allow me to bypass the controller and keep the pump on 24/7 when I have go out of town. Could you share the setup/parts you used ?

Sure I bought a switch from Home depot that has a a dimmer slide on the side. I hooked it to the pump along with the wires to the controller I shut off the power to the boiler and turn on the switch and adjust it to the flow I want and thats it. But remember you have to have a bypass for the danfoss or you will only move the water in the boiler.

 

[stee6043]

Perhaps someone else will chime in but I'm not sure how long your pump is going to last using a dimmer to control speed??? Typically you need an inverter-duty motor to reliably operate under variable frequencies like that. I could be wrong....but thought I'd mention it....

 

[Medman]

I also wired in a switch for the circulator. I used a relay - the coil is energized by flipping the switch. When the switch is off, the circ is controlled by the EKO controller, wired to the normally closed contacts. When I flip the switch, the relay energizes and the normally open contacts close, turning on the circ. This configuration allows me to run the circ without having to shut power off to the boiler, which is great when I want to run the circ and the boiler controller before the boiler is up to temp. I also wired up indicator lights for the panel where the switches and relays are installed, so that I know what state the system is in at all times. When I add my storage tank and circulators I will do the same, adding the relays, switches and lights to the same panel.

As stated, make sure you install a bypass for the thermostatic valve or water will only circulate in the near-boiler piping. I also put in a valve between the Danfoss and the supply, so that all flow from the circ goes out to the loop and back. This setup is great for adding chemicals, getting the air out, etc. Also, when you think you will be away for an extended period and the boiler will be cold, you could open the bypass valves and run the circulator to prevent freeze-up if your boiler is in an outbuilding like mine. I am still thinking about how to set up a low temp freeze protection - maybe use a thermostat for elec. baseboard heat wired in parallel with the switch above, and set to come on at 40 or 45*F. Another thread mentions built in freeze protection in the new EKO controller but I haven't explored this myself.

 

[taxidermist]

[to prevent freeze-up if your boiler is in an outbuilding like mine. I am still thinking about how to set up a low temp freeze protection - maybe use a thermostat for elec. baseboard heat wired in parallel with the switch above, and set to come on at 40 or 45*F. Another thread mentions built in freeze protection in the new EKO controller but I haven't explored this myself.[/quote]


It does have built in protection mine turned on below 40deg and off at 40 deg but I still wired a switch in. As far as how long the pump will last I dont know because I know nothing about electric motors? Shouldnt the switch have all the protection built into it to protect the motor??????? got me there.

Rob

 

[Medman]

The built-in freeze protection is great. The lowest temp I have seen on the controller so far was 43*F. Of course now that the house and the workshop are all up to temp and working fairly well I am not eager to let the temp get that low again.
I think I will keep the fire off for a while tonight so i can try reversing the Danfoss valve, but the shop will only drop about 25*F overnight even with no heat. My only concern for freezing is during the weekends away at hockey tournaments or a week away somewhere warm in Feb. (Not happening this year - $15k for heat in the house makes my living room the only warm place I will be this year).

 

[Tony H]

Yes good point on the danfoss, I will have to add that to the system for the future. Good thing I have gylcol in the system already. I just want to add the circulation for extra protection. Thanks for the info on the switch I think that will work for me and I might add a second switch in the line from the EKO to the pump so that circuit can be broken and not allow any backfeed to the controller.