Fireview gasket question.

[Woody Stover]

I opened the lid on my SIL's Fireview tonight. The 1/4" gasket that runs around the top of the combustor pan needs to be replaced, looks like it's leaking big air into the stove. After I remove the old gasket and clean up the surfaces, do I put the new gasket in with gasket glue, furnace cement, or what?
Maybe plugging this huge air leak will let her run the stove low enough to get the room temp below 84*. :bug:

 

[DAKSY]

Use high temp RTV.

 

[ddddddden]

The gasket around the perimeter of the top door? Gasket glue, *I think.* I don't see any cement in that area on mine. Haven't actually changed it though. Speculating further, it doesn't look like a leak there would make the stove run harder. . .it would let "cold" room air directly enter the flue, reducing draft through the firebox. I would think symptoms of a leak here would be similar to having a leak at the stove collar. You might want to just go ahead and do all the usual gaskets while your hands are dirty. Woodstock sells a maintenance kit with gaskets & appropriate goop for $40.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Buster, I'm not sure how that gasket would cause more air to come into the stove? What it would do would be to allow smoke to bypass the cat when the cat gets engaged but that should not cause more air or a hotter stove. It seems to me it might cause the stove to not reach the high temperature if all the smoke was not passing through the cat.

You do need a gasket glue which can be purchased at most hardware stores. Make sure you clean the gasket channel after tearing out the old gasket. I have a wire brush that fits into a drill and that works like a charm for cleaning the channel.

Den is correct on the maintenance kit from Woodstock. Or, you can just buy the needed gasket and glue. If you call them, shipping is quite fast.

 

[Woody Stover]

The gasket around the perimeter of the top door? Gasket glue, *I think.* I don't see any cement in that area on mine. Haven't actually changed it though.

This is the gasket around the "air duct cover." As you can see in the photo below, about half of it is gone. :bug: There is some sort of goop on part of the gasket that I looked at.



http://woodstove.com/images/stories/editorial_support/Manual_Img/fv205-internal.gif

You might want to just go ahead and do all the usual gaskets while your hands are dirty. Woodstock sells a maintenance kit with gaskets & appropriate goop for $40.

My hands are usually dirty anyway. I guess the least I can do is to clean that filthy cat while I'm in there :lol: But if anything, that will allow it to suck more air....
Yeah, this thing needs the works. It may be a bit over-sized for her place, so I need to slow down the air. I put a damper in the flue...the thing was going ballistic before that. I think her stack is 20+ ft. so that could be a factor too....

Buster, I'm not sure how that gasket would cause more air to come into the stove? What it would do would be to allow smoke to bypass the cat when the cat gets engaged but that should not cause more air or a hotter stove.

I have a wire brush that fits into a drill and that works like a charm for cleaning the channel.

I hadn't thought it all the way through, but I realize now that you're absolutely right....Savvy. ;-) In fact, there are some soot/creosote deposits to indicate that smoke is indeed bypassing the cat.
I like the brush idea. A gun-cleaning brush might work....

You can't see it too well in the pic, but the visible end of the cat is scooped out. I don't know if that's from closing the bypass too soon, but I told her to burn it briskly for a while after a reload.


http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h407/2bnator/Fireview001.jpg

 

[leeave96]

I should think you could use some gasket glue to hold the gasket back in place. One thing you've got with a Woodstock woodstove is excellent customer service and a wealth of online reference material. You can go to woodstove.com and find their phone number, manuals, gasket kits, reference materials and all sorts of other stuff.

Good luck,
Bill

 

[Todd]

Woodstock says to use furnace cement in that gap then lay the gasket over the top. I replaced my air duct gasket last summer and there was a lot of furnace cement in there I had to chisel out.There is no groove for the gasket so use the furnace cement generously.

I can't tell by the picture but if that cat has a scoop out of it, it could be flame impingement caused from burning too hot and the flames getting sucked into the cat. What does the other side look like, it takes most of the abuse?

 

[sauer]

furnace cement is what you need for that. call woodstock they will get you everything you need. make shure when you replace the gasket not to stretch the gasket to much in the wider gaps of the duct cover. stretched rope gasket is not as soft and cushy as gasket that is just laid into the groove of the cover.

 

[Woody Stover]

Woodstock says to use furnace cement in that gap then lay the gasket over the top. I replaced my air duct gasket last summer and there was a lot of furnace cement in there I had to chisel out.There is no groove for the gasket so use the furnace cement generously. I can't tell by the picture but if that cat has a scoop out of it, it could be flame impingement caused from burning too hot and the flames getting sucked into the cat. What does the other side look like, it takes most of the abuse?

when you replace the gasket not to stretch the gasket to much in the wider gaps of the duct cover. stretched rope gasket is not as soft and cushy as gasket that is just laid into the groove of the cover.

She got the gasket and gasket cement at a stove store, as we had discussed earlier. I was sleeping, and she decided to go ahead and do the job, as the temp outside was dropping. She used no cement, just stuffed the gasket down in the gap. Claimed it didn't look like there was cement in the previous one. I thought it looked like there was. At least she didn't stretch the gasket. And she cleaned, but didn't remove the cat.
Maybe I'll cement that gasket later, when I replace the door gasket and look for missing cement inside the stove. For now, I'm going to just crank down the door latch; Door not as tight as it should be. That may cut the air to the stove a bit. When I was over there earlier, she told my to open the air a little and get some flames, which I did (It was all the way down to 78 in the room.) :lol: Later, I cut the air back to zero, but the flames never went out.

Yep, the cat is scooped out in a couple spots, 1/8-1/4." I don't want to take that out until I have a gasket.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Buster, you can see in the pictures that the gasket needed replacing. I would not worry too much about the lack of cement under the gasket as long as everything works okay. You don't open and close that door so it will probably be fine.

 

[Woody Stover]

I would not worry too much about the lack of cement under the gasket as long as everything works okay. You don't open and close that door so it will probably be fine.

Yep, and she said it was a fairly tight fit in there. I'll just keep an eye on it.
I wonder where the rest of it went, though....

 

[Todd]

If it were me, I'd take that air duct gasket back out and do it right with furnace cement. The air duct is where the combustion air comes from and wraps around and down through the air wash. If it's leaking the stove won't function properly. How old is this stove? I also wonder what happened to half of the old gasket? You should also replace the gaskets for the top lid, bypass , and cat gasket along with the door gasket, get them all done at once.

 

[Woody Stover]

If it were me, I'd take that air duct gasket back out and do it right with furnace cement. The air duct is where the combustion air comes from and wraps around and down through the air wash. If it's leaking the stove won't function properly. How old is this stove? I also wonder what happened to half of the old gasket? You should also replace the gaskets for the top lid, bypass , and cat gasket along with the door gasket, get them all done at once.

Stove was made in 10/96. She picked it up used.....for $350. :bug:
I wanted to at least tighten the door latch today, but she had just loaded.
We had some wood to be split over there, and some that was split but too long. Between that and the dead sassafras and dogwood I found nearby, we stacked her up about 2/3 of a cord. I need to stop the leaks and slow down her burn rate; She's chewing through the wood....

 

[Todd]

If it were me, I'd take that air duct gasket back out and do it right with furnace cement. The air duct is where the combustion air comes from and wraps around and down through the air wash. If it's leaking the stove won't function properly. How old is this stove? I also wonder what happened to half of the old gasket? You should also replace the gaskets for the top lid, bypass , and cat gasket along with the door gasket, get them all done at once.

Stove was made in 10/96. She picked it up used.....for $350. :bug:
I wanted to at least tighten the door latch today, but she had just loaded.
We had some wood to be split over there, and some that was split but too long. Between that and the dead sassafras and dogwood I found nearby, we stacked her up about 2/3 of a cord. I need to stop the leaks and slow down her burn rate; She's chewing through the wood....

Just bypass the cat for a minute, open the door and adjust it. It only takes a few seconds with a wrench and allen screw. Is that the original cat?