First post - VC Resolute - how to correct this flue issue?

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makingsawdust

New Member
Feb 15, 2015
5
Central New York
Thank you all for the tremendous information on this thread. About ten years ago when building the house I had what looks like a fireplace built (see pix) but specifically for a cast iron stove. It has a granite hearth all the way back and a full clay liner on a chimney that rises about 32 ft above the stove. I had spec'ed it for 6x6 clay liner but the mason used 8x8 so it's oversized. Where I positioned the stove I needed to add a short (15") horizontal run straight back to get the stovepipe under the transition. You can see in the pic there is an iron transition that is screwed into the masonry. It gets really cold here (-20 today) and when the stove has not been in use for a few days the chimney gets really cold and the result is condensation and creosote dripping when I fire it up - especially if I run the stove in its "closed" mode. I had a VC Vigilant back in the 80s with a similar flue that was shoved up over a smoke shelf and I never had this problem. I know the clay is oversized and that's part of the problem but is the horizontal run causing this issue? Even if I moved the stove back and ran the pipe straight down into the stove all that black water would run into the stove - it might not leak on the hearth but it seems like too much for the stove. I have taken to running the stove it its open mode which uses wood faster so it's not ideal. Wood is very dry birch/oak/cherry we cut in the woods. Options I can think of are (1) a 6" SS liner ($$$), (2) moving the stove back under the flue, (3) going with 45 deg flue members to eliminate the horizontal run. I'm sure there are other ways to approach this problem - any help much appreciated!
 

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Put an insulated liner in there and your problems will probably be fixed. Even if your mason had used 6x6 clay (which i have never seen after working on and inspecting thousands of chimneys) the fact that the liner is un insulated means that it will take quite a while to get that flue up to proper operating temperature and until you do that you will have condensation and creosote.
 
@bholler - thank you. Would you run the liner from above the transition and up? Or does it need to be sealed to the short pieces near the stove. I guess I would remove the transition entirely and seal the 7" square opening to the liner if that is the case. Are there SS pieces made for this purpose?
 
I would run the liner down to a tee behind the stove all ss. You could switch to regular pipe once you exit the chimney but you dont have much i would just do it out of stainless
 
I have seen those tees used with a liner (instead of a 90) - is that a cleanout? Also,can I paint the stainless black?
Yes it acts as a cleanout and also a little bit of an area for dirt to collect without starting to close off the flue. And yeah you can paint it black
 
go on csia and nfi websites and search your zip code just make sure you get it insulated or you wont be gaining near as much as you could
 
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