fitting a powerful woodstove into a tight space
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Danno77
Minister of Fire
You can also just add less fuel. The T6 will burn happily with a low fuel load once a coal bed is established.
Okay, T6 it is. The more i think about it, also, the cook plates are more of a selling point than just a quaint accessory. They will earn big points with my wife and housemates. They also will allow me to not be so rushed to get the kitchen back up to full function once i tear it down to scratch! (That is a next in line project for my ghetto mansion). Anyway, hopefully i can find a nearby dealer with one in stock.
So i just downloaded the manual and tomorrow i will call the city to check on code. Then i can give a check to the advice i keep getting locally (in fact it is quite contradictory to what i read on here). For example, i have been told i need 4.5in thich non combustible material (i.e. concrete) flooring under the stove and extending 8in past the stove dimensions, and that this floor cannot attach or touch any metal, including screws.
. The T6 manual, on the other hand, says that the stove can be placed on top of a combustible floor, as long as there is a non combustible barrier (any thickness) around the stove 18in for embers that spill out. This leads me to believe that i must live in somewhat of a pocket of paranoia. This is great news to me, because it means not having to cut out wood floors, restructure the floor joists to accommodate a concrete block, pour the concrete block, and finish. Instead, i can simply buy a "mat" as suggested above or mortar together some handmade tiles (my wife works ceramics at a local art studio that is pretty up on fireproof tiling and kilns and other 500+deg things) or marble slabs (my house came with a surprising abundance of marble slabs of all sizes in the basement). Fair enough?
So i just downloaded the manual and tomorrow i will call the city to check on code. Then i can give a check to the advice i keep getting locally (in fact it is quite contradictory to what i read on here). For example, i have been told i need 4.5in thich non combustible material (i.e. concrete) flooring under the stove and extending 8in past the stove dimensions, and that this floor cannot attach or touch any metal, including screws.
. The T6 manual, on the other hand, says that the stove can be placed on top of a combustible floor, as long as there is a non combustible barrier (any thickness) around the stove 18in for embers that spill out. This leads me to believe that i must live in somewhat of a pocket of paranoia. This is great news to me, because it means not having to cut out wood floors, restructure the floor joists to accommodate a concrete block, pour the concrete block, and finish. Instead, i can simply buy a "mat" as suggested above or mortar together some handmade tiles (my wife works ceramics at a local art studio that is pretty up on fireproof tiling and kilns and other 500+deg things) or marble slabs (my house came with a surprising abundance of marble slabs of all sizes in the basement). Fair enough?
As part of the plan, incorporate sealing and insulating the old place. Don't worry too much about windows, unless they are falling apart. Just seal up the casings while you have the walls opened. That will be one of the best investments you make.
http://www.energysavvy.com/rebates/PA/city/pittsburgh/
http://www.energysavvy.com/rebates/PA/city/pittsburgh/
DanCorcoran
Minister of Fire
As I understand fire code regulations, manufacturer's requirements trump local generic requirements. You've possible been quoted local requirements which were developed in lieu of any specific ones from your manufacturer.
Others on this forum can verify this (as should your local fire chief/inspector).
Others on this forum can verify this (as should your local fire chief/inspector).
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
DanCorcoran said:
Not necessarily true . . . a lot depends on the individual inspector and local requirements . . . while most folks would probably be OK with just following the manufacturer's specs and NFPA 211, some places may have more stringent requirements.
For example, our inspector was requiring listed floor protection for all woodstoves AND pelletstoves even if they only required ember protection. His reasoning was that the cost was minimal (listed Durock at the time) and the benefits of having exceeded the code was a benefit . . . few people balk at laying out an extra $10-$25 . . . as the Inspector puts it . . . the code is like a plain cheese pizza . . . if a city or town or even an individual (with support from the Chief and/or City Council) wants they can ask for extra requirements.
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