Flame Strength/Expansion Question

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Ummm. Frankly I've never been involved with repairs on this ignition system, which came out after I retired from doing fireplace repairs. So take the following comments with a degree of scepticism.

However, you have an ignition system that's designed to operate on a three volt battery power supply, and the voltage to turn on the main burner gas appears to be 1.48 volts. If you rap on the gas valve, that causes the main burner gas to turn on.

That suggests to me that the reason the gas valve isn't turning on reliably is not a sticking solenoid, by a voltage from the ignition module that is too low, not providing enough voltage to turn the gas valve on reliably.

]You might try measuring the voltage being supplied by the 3 volt power supply to see if it's at the proper voltage, or try putting fresh, high quality batteries in and seeing if thast improves things.

Another possibility is that the ignition control module is getting adequate voltage but poor electrical connections, such as a poor connection on a relay, is giving a substandard voltage to operate the electric gas valve.

The Dexen Industries ignition module GM-6KA information is available from one of your pictures. But if you would care to provide the make and model of the electric gas valve I'll see if I can find the voltage that should be applied to it to get the main burner gas to turn on properly. I'll bet that should be 3 volts and not 1.48 volts. You should find the make and model of the gas valve listed on the front of the gas valve.
 
Hello! Brand new to this forum and having the same problem with my fireplace. From what I've read, I believe my gas valve may be faulty. I have Pilot light, voltages all check out. My question is this: can the gas valve be replaced easily without having to mess around with any gas connections? I'm not comfortable with gas lines but pretty good with a screwdriver! Just trying to find out if this is something I can fix or if I need too call in the Pro's. Thanks for any info !
 
Hello! Brand new to this forum and having the same problem with my fireplace. From what I've read, I believe my gas valve may be faulty. I have Pilot light, voltages all check out. My question is this: can the gas valve be replaced easily without having to mess around with any gas connections? I'm not comfortable with gas lines but pretty good with a screwdriver! Just trying to find out if this is something I can fix or if I need too call in the Pro's. Thanks for any info !

What unit do you have?
 
Did this problem just start?
Did you try rapping the valve solenoid with the handle of a screwdriver?
Have you pulled the burner, & checked behind the burner orifice?
 
Did this problem just start?
Did you try rapping the valve solenoid with the handle of a screwdriver?
Have you pulled the burner, & checked behind the burner orifice?
Yes, one day it just quit working. Yes, tried rapping on it,. Haven't pulled the burner. Not sure how to do that, or how to go about it. Not sure where to start taking things apart and what I'm getting myself into.
 
If your manual is the same as the one on HHT's site, then
if you remove the logs, you should see a burner like this.
Remove (2) 1/4" hex head screws & slide the tube off the orifice.
Remove the orifice & swipe behind it with a cotton swab.

1604874193357.png
 
Ok, I will try that and see what happens. Thank you for the help!
OK, I took the logs out and the burner. There was what looked like dandelion wishes stuck on the gas line where it goes into the burner. I thought 'That's it!'. But no, it wasn't. Tried rapping on it again, no difference. Still have pilot light and I can hear it continue to click like its trying to light. Then Pilot light goes out after maybe 30 seconds which to me seems that it's sensing the main burner is not lighting. I'm back to square one. Is the actual gas valve something that is 'user serviceable'?
I really think this might be something simple to fix. It was really dusty underneath, but I got that all cleaned up.
 
OK, I took the logs out and the burner. There was what looked like dandelion wishes stuck on the gas line where it goes into the burner. I thought 'That's it!'. But no, it wasn't. Tried rapping on it again, no difference. Still have pilot light and I can hear it continue to click like its trying to light. Then Pilot light goes out after maybe 30 seconds which to me seems that it's sensing the main burner is not lighting. I'm back to square one. Is the actual gas valve something that is 'user serviceable'?
I really think this might be something simple to fix. It was really dusty underneath, but I got that all cleaned up.
OK, update. I swapped out the Dexen box to the new one and it fired up. But it was struggling to stay lit. It would go full flame, then back to almost nothing, full, flame, almost nothing. Back and forth. what does that mean?
 
Have you checked the ground wire connection? Is it tight?
Yes, everything under there looks like normal. I'm wondering if the ember material is blocking the holes in the top of the burner and throwing things off. But it's not like anything has moved before I took it apart. Think I'll tear it apart again and remove the ember material to see if that makes any difference.
 
NG. And I forgot, the gas company said there was no issues with the gas lines. So I just pulled the ember material out and it lights perfectly. Now my problem is the wall switch which used to be how we turned it on and off doesn't do that. When I turn it on with the switch underneath it fires right up. Doesn't matter which position the wall switch is in. It used to fire up and then the fan would turn on like 10-15 minutes after. I always figured the wall switch was the main power and there was some setting in the fireplace that waited for some reason to turn the fan on. After turning it off, the fan would continue to run another 10-15min also.
 
Well, I got it going but it's still failing to stay lit. My wife is going to have the gas company back out to check it again. I appreciate your help SO much! Thank you!
 
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There should NOT be 120v at the wall switch.
That may also be a source of the problem.
Pull it & look. There should only be 18ga t-stat wire on it.
Jumping the wires will tell you if the switch is bad...
Good luck. I'm tired & gonna crash.
 
There should NOT be 120v at the wall switch.
That may also be a source of the problem.
Pull it & look. There should only be 18ga t-stat wire on it.
Jumping the wires will tell you if the switch is bad...
Good luck. I'm tired & gonna crash.
OK, so the wall switch controls the power strip that the fan and the Dexen box is plugged into underneath. That's how it was built. We've lived here for 4 years and this is the only problem we've had with the fireplace. Why wouldn't it be 120v? What are your thought on where I should go with this next? The gas company is coming out tomorrow to double check everything, including the gas pressure I assume. I guess if they come up with something it will lead me in a different direction.