FLUSHING USED BOILER

[91LMS]

well i made my decision on the tw-200. noticed just a bit of rusty water in the bottom of the boiler. is there anything recommended for flushing prior to being hooked up. i probably wont fire it for at least a month. going to plumb in storage as well, looking to find 2-300 gallon container.

 

[Hydronics]

I'm not familiar with that model but hercules makes a boiler cleaner, I believe it's a mild acid, check with your plumbing wholesaler. Be sure to thoroughly flush it after though.

 

[91LMS]

thanks, i gave it a good charge of water and was no time before it was clear. left the drain open on the ride home and she was bone dry, should be good till i get her all plumbed up. i know its not a gasser but i am a happy camper

 

[thecontrolguy]

well i made my decision on the tw-200. noticed just a bit of rusty water in the bottom of the boiler. is there anything recommended for flushing prior to being hooked up. i probably wont fire it for at least a month. going to plumb in storage as well, looking to find 2-300 gallon container.

91LMS: I personally would flush it out with fresh water, like you did, and be careful that all the piping you install to get the (used) new boiler piped into your system is clean of particulate and visible dirt. THEN, once you are able to provide a little heat, go to a commercial plumbing wholesaler and get some flushing chemicals that clean mill oil, scale and other crud out of the new (and existing pipes), then flush with fresh water and then fill the system with good de-mineralized water and add sufficient operating chemicals to meet the suppliers levels for de-oxidizers and plating chemicals to protect all your piping. Be sure to ask for a mix that protects coppers, brass and other metals (other than plain steel) if you have them in your system. This will coat the interior of your pipes and boiler to protect against corrosion of exposed metal surfaces, and provide a measure of reduction by oxygen inhibitors to added / make-up water and other anti-corrosion and anti-fouling additives. There are simple test kits to maintain these chemicals. If your present system is neither fouled with mineral deposits, or is new, I would omit the acid based flushing chemicals and go with a PH neutral de-oiling type soap so you are not etching exposed (clean) metals when there is no need. Additionally, you should have pre-pump suction strainers (standard) and perhaps a side-stream filter to filter out the suspended muck that the additive chemicals are trying to keep in suspension, and and sub-micron stuff that the additive package is coagulating into invisible balls of goop circulating through your system. Then you have a nice clean heating system that will last for years with no corrosion, no fouled valve seats, or plugged boiler tubes or heat exchangers! Good luck. Jim.