Foam in trench boiler lines installed in conduit/pvc

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Jan 17, 2011
57
NE, Ohio
Hey guys I'm installing boiler limes from my shop to the house and will be using the foam in trench method. I'm adding a water supply and extra conduits for low voltage communications.

My question is if anyone ever used PVC conduit chases inside the foam so pex lines can be changed if needed. Long term plans include concreting over the area I'm installing in lines and I'd rather not have to rip up the concrete down the road if I have to service.

The run is a straight shot except for a 4' elevation change so l don't believe it would be difficult to pull the lines through the 100' shot.

Thoughts? If I'm over planning please tell me.
 
Hey guys I'm installing boiler lines from my shop to the house and will be using the foam in trench method. I'm adding a water supply and extra conduits for low voltage communications.

My question is if anyone ever used PVC conduit chases inside the foam so pex lines can be changed if needed. Long term plans include concreting over the area I'm installing in lines and I'd rather not have to rip up the concrete down the road if I have to service.

The run is a straight shot except for a 4' elevation change so l don't believe it would be difficult to pull the lines through the 100' shot.

Thoughts? If I'm over planning please tell me.
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I will tell you that you are overthinking this:

ideally you want to bed the entire trench in mason sand for one thing; and with a pipe warning tape one foot +- above the conduit.

NOW you can use heavy white schedule 80 PVC pipe to run the pipe-BUT IF IT WERE ME-


1. Dig and level trench below frost line
a. pound wooden survey stakes in the trench right next to the trench wall leaving 6 inches of the stake exposed.
b. bed the trench with at least 6 inches of mason sand and tamp it with a pad tamper before you do anything.

The problem is water
the problem is water
the problem is water
the problem is water
The other problem is heat in the pex
The other problem is heat in the pex
The other problem is foam expansion
The other problem is foam expansion
The other problem is settling in the trench
The other problem is settling in the trench
the other problem is settling in the trench


It will be simpler if you buy the 15 dollar per foot oxygen barrier pex foamed tubing and slide it in the white PVC MAKING SURE YOU HAVE AN EXIT ANGLE OF 30 degrees to install it and eventually pull it out to replace it if needed.

YOU HAVE TO to place the PVC along one wall of the trench and back fill it with the mason sand and tamp it in several layers to avoid issues with settling that could shift the pipe in the trench.

BE SURE to shovel sand against the trench wall where you place the pipe before you lower the pipe in place.


To make your life easier when working on this:
first rent a wire snake, buy some wire lube, 100 plus feet of new poly rope, rent a pipe vice to clean and glue all the white PVC together, preferably rent two pipe vices to clean and glue the entire pipe section together in one operation You can glue the 100 foot section together with the two pipe vices and lower it in the trench with the 30 degree elbows and short pipe sections that exit and enter the home and shop.
You can bed the smaller PVC pipe along the other wall of the trench.


You say are adding water lines

I would use another run of PVC pipe for the water line using the blue plastic water pipe and push it through
to the house/shop and be sure its below the frost line. You could use a larger black flexible PVC pipe to run the water line and the oxygen barrier pex through to the house/shop etc and use black PVC for the communication line as well JUST BE SURE TO BED the pipe properly and then tamp the sand in the trench in layers all the way to the surface of the trench.

SO you can use conduit or white PVC or the black poly pipe its up to you if you use the black poly it will
not be as strong as the white schedule 80 PVC and less costly than electrical conduit. Using the 15 dollar
insulated PEX in the solid drainage tubing will keep the heat in the pex.
using mason sand will be less costly in general

So if you have a 4 foot by 18 inch by 100 foot trench you need at least 22 yards of sand to a backfill it fully.
 
You gonna concrete over the whole 100'? I guess you were planning on having a sealed PVC chase from the boiler to your home. From a pure efficiency standpoint you will lose energy vs blowing foam directly on the pex. You'll be heating that PVC chase which leaves btus in the wrong place. Not inclined to guess how bad, but it absolutely will be less efficient. Don't disagree with anything Leon said above. Had I thought of it I may have put sand in the bottom of my trench and his ideas of marking the run I wish I have thought of. Haven't had a problem with settling or water infusion. Our foam in trench performance is the same today as when first put in over 5 years ago. With closed cell polyurethane foam, the only variable that improves performance is thickness and from what I can tell, after about 3.5-4" of thickness the return on investment for going thicker is nearly zero. Our storage tanks with ~3.5" foam in our barn do not feel warm with 180 deg water inside. Can understand your logic, but we bought the best pex from the most reputable manufacturer and put it in a big foam 140' long block. Not gonna say the chase is a bad idea because if it did fail under the concrete I'd sure want a chase......

But if you do the chase I'd glue it just like a pressure water line and check drop so if water gets in it runs out. Conduction into water kills efficiency. And if you see water seeping out of the chase it will tell you you're screwed.

Well, not sure I was much help....
 
I think your idea is awesome. The pvc does not have to be of the strongest in nature as the foam is holding it in place, yes? Maybe schedule 20 or 30 would do. The pvc only needs to be large enough to loosely fit your pex, yes? I doubt that I will ever do another system for myself, but your plan would be what I would suggest to others if running below a drive.
Hey guys I'm installing boiler limes from my shop to the house and will be using the foam in trench method. I'm adding a water supply and extra conduits for low voltage communications.

My question is if anyone ever used PVC conduit chases inside the foam so pex lines can be changed if needed. Long term plans include concreting over the area I'm installing in lines and I'd rather not have to rip up the concrete down the road if I have to service.

The run is a straight shot except for a 4' elevation change so l don't believe it would be difficult to pull the lines through the 100' shot.

Thoughts? If I'm over planning please tell me.
 
go with a high quality underground insulated line like Logstor, Thermopex or Z-Supply XT and you wont have an issue.....all brands are rated for less than 1° of heat loss over a 100ft run at 5gpm.....you idead seems great but these products have been time tested for durability. Placing sand below and above the lines is highly recommended as previously mentioned. Good luck
 
Dig trench below your regions frost line removing all rocks and bed with 6" of sand. Lay in the conduits for low voltage, line voltage and water line plus a spare or two with sweeps along with the PEX and zip tie them neatly and seal them properly from the trench going thru the foundation. Personally I would core drill a single hole of the appropriate size to get the bundle in. Pour foam. When cured cover with 6 more inched of sand. Back fill using the dirt you removed excluding larger sized rocks if any compacting in lifts.

If you are going thru a floating slab then be sure to sleeve the penetration because the pipes are not going to move but the slab will.
 
I'm thinking it would be a pretty tough pull, pulling two lengths of 1-1/4" pex thru 100' of conduit.

Anybody done it?

Of all the materials I have run through a conduit, all were successful. Some take more manpower or a stronger tool with more lube than others but they all go through. And, with that being said, I have never touched pex so know nothing of its handling properties. I have witnessed some long pulls of huge cable done by the electricians.

Why I like the conduit idea over anything else under a drive, there is no need for excavation if repairs are needed.
 
I would not expect to have any problem pulling the PEX into conduit as long as there were no sharp turns and your pulling rope was strong enough, 1/2" nylon or so, not yellow plastic...
 
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